Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238956
01/22/17 01:11 PM
01/22/17 01:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,357 Rancho Cordova, California (Sa...
hemi71x
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,357
Rancho Cordova, California (Sa...
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EVAPORUST This picture is what my LCA's look like after soaking them out in a 5 gallon pail of Evaporust. Looks like they were just made at the stamping plant. Clean them up, squeaky clean with whatever solvent you prefer, then soak them out.
Last edited by hemi71x; 01/22/17 04:58 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238977
01/22/17 01:40 PM
01/22/17 01:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 294 Maryland
MoparMike1974
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 294
Maryland
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Try a product called Ospho. It works much better than evaporust. These products are only intended for surface rust. Anything more and you will need to mechanically remove the rust then treat it.
Last edited by MoparMike1974; 01/22/17 01:41 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238978
01/22/17 01:43 PM
01/22/17 01:43 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,727 Florida
BDW
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Florida
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: MoparMike1974]
#2239111
01/22/17 04:39 PM
01/22/17 04:39 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,146 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Mesa, Arizona
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Muric acid is good for cleaning out the water passages in your heads and block
Last edited by dart4forte; 01/22/17 04:40 PM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239291
01/22/17 07:13 PM
01/22/17 07:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,270 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
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Joined: Jan 2004
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fredericksburg,va
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They use it in swimming pools where people get it on there skin. Wear gloves if you have to put your hand in it, in other words use your brain. I've used every form of rust remover, I have vats of molasses, electrolysis tanks, muriatic acid tanks and I use osfo stuff. If you have a little or delicate part use the evoporust product $$$$. If you need fast, muriatic is the one, what you buy now is diluted but I still cut in half. Wash good when removed then spray with Crud Cutter, sold in paint stores, it will keep it from rusting back. Did my lca about three weeks ago, still no rust back, in about two months I'll paint. Remember, they all have there good points and bad points. After the muriatic been used awhile and lost its power I mix it with weed killer to get the stubborn grass out of my driveway. The ph just burns it up. I can hear the tree huggers now.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: Stanton]
#2239614
01/23/17 02:01 AM
01/23/17 02:01 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2011
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Cut and Shoot, TX
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The problem with Muriatic acid: 1) very strong and harmful fumes 2) it attacks the base metal 3) the items will flash rust instantly after neutralizing More about the fumes: if you use it in a closed space like a garage, the fumes can attack everything metal in the area, if the exposure time is several hours or more. After I left my shop for the day, a quart or two of vinegar leaked on the floor and put surface rust on every piece of steel in the room by morning. And this was just vinegar, not nearly as strong as typical store-bought dilute muratic acid. Yes, Evapo-Rust isn't cheap, but all things considered, it's very popular for a reason.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239689
01/23/17 11:07 AM
01/23/17 11:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162 USA
360view
Moparts resident spammer
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Moparts resident spammer
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USA
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I need more coffee this morning but i seem to foggily remember that Muriatic acid (HCL) can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" cracking even long after it has been used. HBC can cause a steel part to fail far below its yield strength, even below its fatique strength. Roughly this can mean breaking at 20% of the load you would expect. It has other safety problems: https://simple.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acidOsphro and Naval Jelly have been around for a long time and used by the US Navy http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Naval_Jelly_Rust_DissolverThere are links in my previous posts on rust removal on Evaporust about cheap extenders like vinegar of expensive rust removers. I bought a gallon of Safest Rust Remover 4:1 concentrate but have not experimented with it yet. My brother favors using a pneumatic needle scaler followed by Osphro or a rust converter. The needle scaler handled right can add a "shot peened" strengthening effect to steel parts. Don't weaken a steel part's strength while "pretty-ing it up."
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239815
01/23/17 03:09 PM
01/23/17 03:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957
Chicago
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A little bit of side info:
All acids attack/remove rust AND the base metal to different degrees. Stronger = faster, but not really "better". In order of "acid strength", sulfuric acid (battery acid is about 15% sulfuric), hydrochloric (muriatic is 12% hyrochloric acid) > phosphoric acid > citric acid. I've never used ospho, but based on it's name it's an ortho-phosphoric acid based product (phosphoric acid).
All of these acids can be "neutralized" with baking soda making them OK to go down the drain in most places. fyi- it's good to have some baking soda around to neutralize any acid you get on your skin or on on concrete/other metal.
I've always used some type of phoshporic acid based product. Sulfuric is WAY too strong & hydrocholic (even 12% muriatic) is too strong too in my opinion, but yo might get away with it if you watch the parts VERY closely. If you aren't in a big hurry, you "might" be able to find some oxalic acid. I used to use that years ago to restore beer cans since it would SLOWLY remove the rust & leave the paint/ink on the cans alone for the most part.
Last edited by PurpleBeeper; 01/23/17 03:11 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: kentj340]
#2239997
01/23/17 08:47 PM
01/23/17 08:47 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,693 Surface of the Sun, AZ
Hotwheelsjr
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,693
Surface of the Sun, AZ
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The problem with Muriatic acid: 1) very strong and harmful fumes 2) it attacks the base metal 3) the items will flash rust instantly after neutralizing More about the fumes: if you use it in a closed space like a garage, the fumes can attack everything metal in the area, if the exposure time is several hours or more. After I left my shop for the day, a quart or two of vinegar leaked on the floor and put surface rust on every piece of steel in the room by morning. And this was just vinegar, not nearly as strong as typical store-bought dilute muratic acid. This is why I sold my '72 SSP I was going to clone into a '71 RR. After sandblasting the entire front clip (not fenders), over several days with a Harbor Freight sand blaster, I left an open, empty gallon container of muriatic acid in the garage over night one night. Next morning I came out and every piece of metal in my garage was flash rusted. I was so disgusted, I sold the car. Before: After... I did start blasting again, but then stopped in disgust and sold the damn thing.
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