Where are you guys getting your tubing from?
I'm getting quotes of 1600 to 1700 US. for 100 ft of 1 5/8 .083 wall.
Upper state NY would work best.
Matt

Call Stock car Steel in Mooresville NC no minimums--fast shipping--cut to length I have always used them--great guys call Adam

The shipping will kill me.

Aircraft spruce is in brantford
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php
1k cad for 100ft

The shipping on a 4'x 4' piece of .063" aluminum sheet was $128 from NC to KY.

If you can get by with 8 foot pieces, shipping is cheap with them also. I know you'll need some longer but....

Ask all of the chassis shops near you for their
prices and ask where they buy from.. my local
chassis shop will sell to me cheaper than the
shop I use to deal with... if yo want enough to
build a chassis make sure he will order enough
to take care of your order.. or go direct to his
supplier
EDIT
Dont buy in short lengths... I got all my tubing
in 21'- 24' sticks.. its cheaper

For that money drive your truck down and rent a flat trailer to bring home or bring the chop saw, cut into pieces. Make a homemade pipe rack. Pennsylvania Steel will sell right at $5 a ft. You'll need at least a 10 ft piece for the main hoop
www.pasteel.com

If he is building a full chassis the main runners
are a LOT longer

Even with their shipping they are cheaper than AllStar supplied from Summit.

TW metals

Thanks for all the input found a place that can get 17 foot pieces at 7.50 at foot plus freight.
Still have a couple of places to try.

Thanks again.

So when you get a cert for a cage how do they check for the type if metal?
Do they do a hardness check?
How do they determine if it's CM VS MS.

They look at it... they will also ask you what you
used for material.. they do ask questions... like
what is it being certed to.. if you say 7.50 and it
only checks out to 8.50 you FAIL.. even for the 8.50
till you pay again and say 8.50... the guy that certed
my chassis was nice to me.. mine use to cert to 7.50
BUT they made a rule change that I didnt know about..
he asked what it was gonna cert for... I said 7.50 just
like it already had certed to... he did a quick look and
asked me.... are you sure.. I said it certed to 7.50 already
but he told me about the change and explained that if I said
7.50 it was gonna fail and that I would have to pay again and
I would pass at 8.50.. I just told him 8.50 and thats what it
certs to now... I didnt add the braces on the braces to the haylo
for the 7.50 cert... they will take a few thickness
reading to verify what it is
EDIT
Also if the chassis is painted they will scrape a
few spots to check the material and thickness...
this is the way I took my chassis to them for cert

I see several areas that your cage falls short for 7.50 cert, but easy enough upgrades if needed. What are the flat plates for? Body mounts?

It use to cert to 7.50... that cert tag on it
was for 7.50.. yeah the plates were to mount the
body.. I ended up cutting them down to 1 1/2" tall

It's been awhile since I had one certified but the inspector said he could tell what type and thickness of tubing it was when he touched the probe to it. He told me if I had used cm instead of dom I would have got the 25 cent, but then I would have to have it reserted each year, said I was better off without it with my intended use. Car done weighted 2167. Very nice guy, we talked for a half hour about my chassis, liked how I did it. Of course I couldn't get out of the car for awhile because of the swelled head. LOL

I'm not doubting the cert. I'm just saying that according to the book that I got from SFI, the latest requirements are more than your car has at present. Even you have commented on bars that my cage requires for 7.50 cert, so I'm pretty sure you know what I am referring to. But again, not a big deal to add a couple of pieces to cert to 7.50. Door X braces, diagonals at the roof. SFI doesn't require them, but I don't know if NHRA or IHRA require down bars from the main hoop to the frame rails, besides the rear X brace.