Ditto. I would avoid the current crop of MP SS springs. Mine worked well for about a year but started sagging and twisting into an S shape on launch at the end of the season. I clamped mine together and tried every combo with 4 clamps and no luck. I'm going to Cal-trac style bars and split mono's for next year.

Snubber is a crutch. Never had one work..

I'm in the same dilemma. I wasn't planning on going down this path with my "street car" but it keeps evolving. Roll bar scheduled for February at the chassis shop..

Sport440, When I bought clamps years ago they were the heavy duty sandwich type, they were actually big enough to put a dent in my gas tank, I can't seem to find them anywhere now although I haven't tried real hard yet.



LOL, it's a disease. I've either got to make this car some what work as a street/strip car or just sell the whole car and start over. I really like the car though, it'd be hard to find another one this clean.

Here's some clamps.......


I'll probably go with these Jegs clamps.

This is what I used in the past.

without SS springs or eqivilant youll need the snubber or you will break ujoints ive been there.my 68 charger stock springs with front clamps pinion snubber 1/2from floor rancho 9ways set 6-7best runs 10.9s 1.50 60fts.ive gone mid 1.3s with SS springs CE 3ways on all four corners 6cyl bars trimmed bump stops 5-5.5"front end travel in my dart.the snubber is just a crutch but it works without having bars hanging down if you like the hush look.

I didnt look at the clamps.... are you talking CV Products
for the roundy round place

Proven formula for using stock style Springs:
Steel or aluminum bushings in the front eyes. Rubber or poly in the shackles. On the left side 4 leaves Plus 1/2 Leaf facing towards the rear. Two clamps on the rear of the spring not on the front. On the right side Four Leaves + two 1/2 leaves facing forward and two clamps on the front half of the spring, not on the back. Plus a snubber and good adjustable shocks. If the car veers to the right under power add another clamp to the right front. If it veers to the left take off 1 clamp from the right front.

Do the front metal/aluminum spring eye bushings squeak alot on the street? Just wondering.

No, not cv, It was Speedway, if I remember correctly. But They weren't actually listed as spring clamps. But they were like the clamps shown in Prosports 2nd Photo. They were like $3.00 bucs apiece.

Tried to find my link from prior posts, no luck.

Those were the kind of clamps I was referring to. If they were hitting your gas tank, were they just to wide. Were the bolts right up against the spring? You can grind and shape them for clearance. But you do want the dimensions of the clamp to be tight, so the bolts are right next to the spring as they pass through the clamp. Another option, as I did. I bolted the front section of the passenger side spring. As in, drill holes through the leaves on the front section of passenger side. Clamps only on the driver side.

Never ran a snubber on anything.......including my dads Super Stock car. We just had some spring packs we built ourselves at home. This is not rocket science here guys. The front segment needs to be REALLY stiff. That's pretty easy to do.

The only thing a snubber does is ATTEMPT the keep the front segment from wrapping, but does a crappy job of it. Make the segment stiff, get some decent shocks and it will work

Some grade 8 bolts and some 3/8" thick strap and build all the clamps you need

All the clamps are two 1/4" thick flat metal that are bolted together. You can make them DIY Clamps Or Auto Zone has these Clamps but I have never run them.
I use to run 3 clamps each side with a set of XHD springs that was with my Dana 60, 18 spline hemi box 440 RR/GTX. This setup worked well.

Here's a couple good videos that show what's going on with the rear suspension before and after a Caltrac setup.

Before caltracs

After caltracs

Yes they fit tight Mike, just needed trimmed or rounded off. But I didn't use them once I bought SS springs for that car. My current car has tailpipes so I'm sure everything will fit tight. On the passenger side I like the idea of drilling and bolting if the clamps won't fit but I'll try the clamps first.

My '71 street/strip Cuda auto (520hp) was all stock suspension, tired front shocks, clamps on the front segment of the leafs, adjustable p/snubber made to have 1/2" gap, stock perf rear shocks with extensions, longer rear hangers, did NOT overtighten bolts, it picked the front up every time and went 1.51 60's at 11.01 et's, weighed 3550lbs. Just cos a snubber is old tech don't mean it won't work today, cheap and adequate without spending big bucks, put SS springs on and adj shocks and you won't need the snubber.....my 2c

Thanks guys I've learned a lot on this cold boring Sunday, several good options to look forward to trying. Obviously this is an old school build(even have a purpleshaft cam lol) but it has been a super fun car that does rolling burnouts at 50 mph and does pretty well at car shows. Now I want to make some passes.


Will 30 spline aftermarket axles and spool work for 600hp or less, or am I way better off going with 35 spline?

Here's a pic of the family hot rod.

Thanks for the video.

How much preload did the bars have?

You can't just drill holes in the springs and bolt them together. Why? Because they are arched and bolted in the middle. When you de-arch them, but putting the car on the ground, the ends of the leafs move. So you CAN drill holes, but you have to have the spring compressed the same as it will be on the car when you drill the holes. AND it's spring steel. Damn hard to drill

You should be able to post a wanted ad for a set of 002-003 springs with everyone switching over to caltracs. I went 9.80's in my Duster 35 years ago with them and track prep was nothing compared to what it is today.

No. I greased mine fairly well and you really don't know they are there!