Well, picked up the new motor and found an issue with the lifters hitting the bronze bushings in the lifter bores. It's a BME block .904 bore. The spacer behind the link bar is catching the bushing when the cam is at it's base circle. These are comp lifters. I'm afraid the motor may have to come apart and have the bushings clearance unless there is a taller lifter that would clear. Any thoughts?

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/jack62972/2016-12-29_17-57-41_000_zpsoeg2dedv.jpeg

If your engine guy let that buy..I would tare it down 100% . And check every thing..looks like a nice peice and a ton of cash invested..but that is bad imagine what we can't see possibly..good luck..if you new everything was good..you could take some time and tape up the hole valley make foam plugs to push in to the lifter bushing.and grind them down and use a good vacuum at the same time.✌

That's what I was thinking too with masking everything off. I hear you on the question of the build but, I notified him when I got home and he wants the engine back. He did give me 1 year warranty on the build. The rollers are touching the cam but have no pressure on them because the bushing is holding them.

We don't know what happened. The engine is obviously not complete, so no need to throw builder under bus without all facts. But if he has offered to fix it, I would take it back and let him do it. A different lifter might be an option, but that might change pushrod length as well. If those are just the standard Comp lifters, how much cam is in this motor?

That's what I was thinking too Monte. I'm trying to keep the faith. He has a lot of engines at tracks here in the mid atlantic that run very well. The cam is a Comp .750/.720 @ .050 286/300 with a 1.5 rocker.

Are you gonna take it back to the builder to
correct it OR are you gonna fix it.. being that
its not all together and not in the car I would
fix it myself.. a rotary bit in a die grinder
will fix the issue in minutes BUT then you need
to pull it apart to clean... but a small notch
cut in the bushing under the link arm will fix it

if the wheel is touching maybe he can take just a little off the tie bar.. did the Builder tell you or did you discover it

I discovered it when I got it home yesterday. He did clearance the tie bar thinking that's what was hitting but, it's the spacer behind the tie bar that's hitting the bushing. That's why I'm wondering if there is a lifter with a higher positioned tie bar. At this point he's eager to fix it. The shame part is it was ready to go in the car. Now it may be a whole tear down or at least an extremely careful modification. Also, this is a tip for anyone that may buy a BME block. Check the lifter bushings!

Could you make an on size stepped punch and drive the bushings down?

Take it apart, grind it, fix it. You will spend more time figuring out what to do, than if you just do it. Nobody wants to take apart a fresh motor, but it's a day job. Just get on it and get it done

like I said in my first post and check everything really closely upon assembly... if he ground on the tie bar once and you still don't have proper clearance he was not very thorough in my opinion.... I would not trust any he did.. and yes under the bus is where he needs to go... and like Monty said it's only A-1 day job I would check piston to valve and all your clearances..

Crane, Isky ,Comp and probably several other companys offer the solid roller lifter with the .300 taller lifter bodies for the blocks like yours
I have several different sets, Crane and Comp,s in the cabinet for future builds

very true.... guys.

Trendz, I thought about that too.

to be continued.

Well I have an update to my lifter / build issues. Since my last post I verified some torques throughout the motor and all looked good. To go along with that the builder has been in touch with me just about every other day. He came to the shop and picked up the motor and tracked down a lifter with the proper clearance. They are Crower sportsman series the only issue now is I need push rods. The adjusters had 5 threads out. I could see kicking push rods so, new rods on the way... So, as a note when using the BME aluminum RB block the tall Crower lifters will work. Should only be a couple weeks till I get to hear this thing run!

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Glad to see it is going back together and looks ok. Would not use that lifter IMO with much cam at all. The lifter you have now is a much better piece. FWIW grinding bushings for clearance is not that uncommon especially when you get into big lift stuff. We had to clearance bushings and the lifters in my deal..

BTW the way the weather looks around here this winter you will be racing in no time.

Thanks Al. I've had a few other tell me the same thing about the lifters. I got a bit of sticker shock when I first heard the price but it's about the application and quality.

I want to be ready for the beginning of March. Capitol, Cecil and MIR are all supposed to re-open the first weekend.

That does look alot better Jack. Good luck with the rest of it. Cant wait to see you take it out. Ron

Think you will be golden now. I hopefully can make it to Capital or some other track here and meet some of the local guys here. Likely our last Summer here but ya never know either. Have had a good time every trip to Capital and Mason Dixon so far. We will be racing the heads up car again out east this summer as well so hopefully I can find time to get to some local stuff. Carlisle is something I really want to attend but it just does not seem to have worked out for me

To be honest.. you could have pressed the
bushings down a touch farther to clear and
not torn the engine down or bought new lifters
but you already did so your done on that part