I'm converting to an EFI tank and realize I need to find something to connect to the 4 lines for venting.
Is there a work around to finding a used/working 45 yr old part?
Is this anything more than a 4 to 1 coupler with a check valve?

I think you are right on the coupler. I don't know how much venting you really need with a return line.

I think this is a great topic that needs to be addressed. Modern gas evaporates really fast, and so the open air venting needs to be updated.

Is there something in the boneyards that can be adapted within reason?

Do you really need to vent a closed, return line system? I guess maybe a little bit as the engine will use more than what is being returned. I agree on the smelly gas! Can't stand it!

Yes it still needs to be vented properly with the car just parked and the temps changing. Not to mention when the car is going down the road.

There's no better way to vent your tank than stock. Find a good vapor separator and vent it to the front of the car. It called a vapor saver system or something like from the factory. It works the best as I have tried it other ways over the years.

Yes you can build your own custom vapor separator pretty easy. Pay attention to how the original is constructed. I'd think about using a piece of pipe to make one? Drill and tap it for barbed hose fittings. A one way valve should be used somewhere in the vent line going forward for a over fill situation in that case to be 100%

Mopars since 1971 have a sealed vent system to protect the air. The tank was first vented to the engine and the fumes were sucked out when the crankcase was sucked out by the PCV valve when the engine was started. Then later years they used the charcoal canister to contain the fumes. Having your tank vented to your engine crankcase keeps the gas smell out of your garage even with full fuel tanks.

The hard part is how to set up a tank, and closing the carb(s) bowl vent systems.

The charcoal setup was never "sealed" per se. There is a filter on the bottom of the canister that will allow venting to atmosphere if the need arises. The charcoal is supposed to adsorb the vapors, but if it's over loaded (by sucking up liquid fuel for example) it will allow vapors to escape. Which is why the vapor separator and check valve is important.

Found that thing on a '73 Newport I scrapped.

R.

I would think it's the same part on every Mopart built in the 70s.
I put a wanted ad on here, nothing yet.

Anyone have one they want to part with?

Sorry no extras here, but do have pictures of a 72-74 E body one. This one is upside down in this picture. This picture was after it was pressure washed clean, before media blasting. A heated pressure washer got all the under coating off before blasting it lightly so the paints sticks the best.

I lightly media blasted mine clean and painted it with Eastwood tank tone paint.
I left the old hoses on it while blasting and painting to keep it clean inside. Tape does not hold up to glass bead blasting or pressure washing, so why waste time trying to tape them off? leave the old hoses on there. Then I remove the old hoses right before reinstalling it with new hoses. I had already blew through it to insure they all vented and were open.


Imagine about a 3/4-1" diameter pipe by about 6" long with four 1/4" pipe thread holes drilled into the bottom and one on top with the ends closed up bolted to the bottom of your car. Would do the job. But I would find a stock one.

How is your car now, did it have the vapor separator bolted to the trunk floor or not? I know a 70 won't have the mounting brackets welded underneath in front of the fuel tank. 70 went out the passenger side of the fuel tank.

This is very early system,70-71. Most E body tanks did not have the internal expansion tank inside them. Maybe the early 70 tanks did with a simple external vent line in the frame rail? Is what I think.

with you.
I should have called it a "closed" system per the FSM.

here's a another one I painted. Got pressure washed.

Then blasted with glass beads.

I remember them calling it a closed vapor recovery system and many did call them a sealed system. And if you worked in a gas station in the 70's and 80's many thought that. And I remember when cars came in for gas after driving on them you would hear the pressure/vacum release when you loosened the presure/vacum gas cap. When driving the rollover valve would lay on its internal vent hole and they would pull a small vacum in the tank while driving until it reached the caps vacum release or until you loosened the gas cap. Course any vapors in the tank on a hot day would lift the rollover valve ball and let the fuel vapors go and store in the charcoal canister. And when you think about it the charcoal canister has to vent somehow since the eng on most of them use eng vacum to purge the stored vapors out of the canister and into the eng. And as you said the canister has a filter in the bottom of them and some were replaceable. And like you also stated the vapor seperator would let any raw gas go back into the tank and just the fumes go to the canister. Even though the canister is vented the fuel vapors stick to the charcoal in the canister and the fumes stay stored in them until they are purged when the eng is running.
But all fuel tanks have to be vented if you want the fuel to flow out of them. Ron