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318, over drive 4 speed help #2219381
12/23/16 12:51 AM
12/23/16 12:51 AM
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Nebraska
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ronhug Offline OP
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Nebraska
I'm putting a 1976 Duster 4 speed, the overdrive one in to my 1964 barracuda with a 1968 318, I'm using the 64 bell housing which is machined to fit the overdrive 4 speed. I need help to determine the pilot bushing in the end of the crank. and any other suggestions of help.

Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219396
12/23/16 01:11 AM
12/23/16 01:11 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Does the 318 crank have a pilot busing in it now or not scope If not you will need to make sure that crank is usable for the 4 speed input shaft, not all of them where shock The pilot shaft bushing hole needs to be really deep on the pilot shaft bushing hole, really deep scope
Post what you find out and we will go from there up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219413
12/23/16 01:37 AM
12/23/16 01:37 AM
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Middle TN
da50r Offline
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I bet it's not drilled. Makes me cringe, but I have seen guys use an adapter bushing from NAPA and cut off the end of the input shaft. Because they don't want to take the crank out and have it machined for the bearing.

Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219426
12/23/16 02:21 AM
12/23/16 02:21 AM
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There is only one bushing from that era, fits all engines and trans combos made in that era.

If that one part don't fit your crank isn't machined for manual trans use.


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They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
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Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219494
12/23/16 11:39 AM
12/23/16 11:39 AM
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Benton, IL.
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DaveRS23 Offline
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This is the bearing we have used with big blocks. It fits in the flange rather than in the hole in the end of the crank. The flange on big blocks already has a machined surface. But I don't know about small blocks. And you do have to trim the end of the tranny input shaft.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-53009180AB-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B00DRWNU8W


Master, again and still
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219544
12/23/16 12:56 PM
12/23/16 12:56 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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Be sure and check to make certain the depth of the hole is enough, as said above. If it isn't, the least of your troubles will be a failed thrust bearing if you try and turn the motor over, and probably a crank needing to be repaired by welding/machining the thrust surface, plus trans damage. DAMHIK


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: DaveRS23] #2219545
12/23/16 12:56 PM
12/23/16 12:56 PM
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Columbus, GA
Michael Ecks Offline
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The bushing above more properly fits into the "pilot hole" for the stubby locating nub on the front of a torque converter. Any crank will have that machined already. That's the beauty of using the conversion bearing, the ugly part is cutting off the end of the transmission input shaft.

Even if your crank has deeper four speed pilot machined, be wary of just popping a bushing in there and installing a transmission. On my 360 crank the manual transmission pilot was there already by the machine shop reported it had a good 1/8 inch run out. Good thing I was going back with an automatic anyway.


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Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219723
12/23/16 05:23 PM
12/23/16 05:23 PM
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Yeah, in this case the crank register bearing can be made to work cause it's a later model engine, but early ones use a smaller register and the bearing will not work.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: Supercuda] #2219758
12/23/16 06:41 PM
12/23/16 06:41 PM
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Wow, the Scary Police are out in full force today.
For most any kind of Mopar engine, the bearing that fits in the torque converter ring is simply and directly the best way to go. They are OEM in more than a million vehicles, and continue to be used, as far as I know.

Unless you feel urged by a higher power to completely disassemble an engine and take the crank to a machine shop that's set up for cranks, and many are not, then the alternative above is the best.

There is usually a hole in the end of the crank and as it's close too the OD of the first style pilot bushing, it is larger than the tip of the input shaft. That means the extra part of the input shaft will be in that hole and you don't have to cut off anything. It worked for me.

Best idea is to measure first and then see what needs to be done.

If the hole isn't long enough it should be possible to drill it a little deeper using a hand drill and proper sized bit. You are just gaining space, not precision machining.

The idea that the input shaft has to be cut is trotted out by people who want to scare you into doing it their way.

R.

Last edited by dogdays; 12/23/16 06:44 PM.
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2219764
12/23/16 06:58 PM
12/23/16 06:58 PM
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Posts: 14,889
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I said nothing about cutting the input shaft.

I said the bearing that presses into the torque converter register on the crank WILL NOT work on an early LA's. There is NOTHING you can do with a drill to fix that.

Just to restate it again, the engine the OP is thinking of using is NOT one of those, but other people do read these threads.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: dogdays] #2219786
12/23/16 07:21 PM
12/23/16 07:21 PM
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Rio Linda, CA
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99.99999% probability that a '68 crank will be pilot-drilled but probably not reamed to final size of .9375". Since the pilot drill size is larger than the input shaft, the register-mounted bushing will work.


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Re: 318, over drive 4 speed help [Re: ronhug] #2220500
12/25/16 01:25 AM
12/25/16 01:25 AM
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Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
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I put an aluminum F-body OD onto a '70's 360 recently and used the bearing show above. I got it locally for about $13. Early '90's Dakota application if I remember right. I used Rock Auto to find the part number and started calling around to find it. It's not only better than the old style bushing, it's easier to install. The crank was drilled deep enough to have plenty of clearance. You can be sure I measured that more than once.







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