How long is it and what kind of clamp would be required?

Are you running a crossover up front? (an H-pipe or an X-pipe)? If not, that will help. Do you have room in front of the mufflers for some resonators?

what is the smallest out side diameter resonator for 2 1/2" pipe? These are so low there's scrapage from high centering on speed bumps and driveways.

A couple of the older posts alluded to these but you seem to have missed what they were talking about - Terms for the same thing: Helmholtz resonator, 1/4 Wave resonator, Branch Resonator
Google Branch Resonator and the flick to the images results to get the idea
This page has some technical ways to work out lengths
http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/exhaust_drone.htm

You could possibly fit a pair above the diff?

With some creativity you could make them adjustable fairly easily

I'm already running an X-pipe and there really isn't any room in the front for a resonator. That was the first thing I mentioned to the muffler guy when I brought the car in.The exhaust is too close to the body and transmission. Heck, I'm even rubbing in a couple of spots. Anyway, the diameter of the smallest resonators that I could find was 4" as shown in my links above.

And I have high centered the car on a speed bump in my work parking lot before, but since then I've raised the car in the front about 1/4-1/2" and added stiffer springs.

I saw them, and it's a cool idea I would like to implement, but that would require welding and that's a skill I am not comfortable with just yet.

I'd ask Accurate, I do not know, but I do know it's a reproduction of the factory setup, so it "should" work in that area

Did a quick search and it seems that some Chevelles and Mustangs came with a muffler before the axle and a resonator out back from the factory.

I can build 2.5" core resonators with 3.5" OD bodies in any length (well - as long as 40" body). As far as the dead-end tuning pipes & bullwinkle pipes, I've NEVER seen someone actually run these on any application.

So did a butt ton of Mopars

The early A body 273 hipo setup was like that

What is keeping you from fixing the rubbing? Touching exhaust can make an enormous amount of noise.

The header was rubbing against the PS box and the exhaust pipe was hitting the T-bar. Since then I got new T-bars and I haven't looked at it. I am more timid working on the front of the car than the rear. Just dealing with more weight (engine). I never feel comfortable working with it alone.

We are heading into the colder seasons of the the year.
Does your vehicle's Drone noise change with air temperature?

I have been toying with the idea that the RPM and throttle setting where drone occurs could be shifted by injecting air into the exhaust with a 12 volt compressor. Water injection might work also.

Cooler exhaust gas should have a lower speed of sound,
which should shift the conditions where the Drone is loudest.

Someone adventurous might also experiment with adding E85 to the fuel.

The most recent night when I brought it home, it was about 50-60 degrees outside which is usually about 30 degrees cooler than when I normally drive it. I did not notice a change in drone tone or location. The drone almost always occurs between 1800-2100 RPM while I'm inputting some sort of throttle.

If it's rubbing it will always make a drone. Fix that first

Well, then I'll need to move the engine. As mentioned at the start of this thread, the headers are hitting on the driver's side. I checked the Torsion bar interference and it seemed like the mechanic dimpled the tubing before installing the T-bar, but there is still a small amount of rub. So, my engine needs to go a little up and to the passenger side which should be accommodated by a shim

What's the safest way to shift the over to the passenger side with shims and what tools will I require? I have an engine hoist and quite a few different chains/tools for lifting the engine I bought from Summit when I got the hoist. Is it as easy as loosening up the motor mounts and installing some shims? Schumacher seems to be out, but I may have some extra scrap metal lying around. If not, would washers work? Do they go between the bracket and the rubber mount or between the K-frame and the rubber mount.

OMG, are you kidding me? You would go through all that to reduce or eliminate exhaust drone/resonance? CHANGE THE MUFFLERS or add resonators to the current setup! For the love of God!

Some of the cheapo parts store biscuits are quite a bit thinner than factory. And of a lower quality. Replacing them with the proper thickness may move your header away from the box. You could easily make some shims to put between the biscuits and the k member. All you need is some flat metal, a cut off wheel and a drill. Personally, I wouldn't trust the cheap rubber mounts as far as I could throw them. I prefer solid mounts as I don't mind a little vibration. There are alternatives though : http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html

Schumacher usually shows where the engine should be located, i.e. it's factory location. I would confirm that first, then if you can move and/or shim things about till all clears. But it is not uncommon, even with TTI's to occasionally need to manually clearance the tubes (bash a dent in them). If you decide you need to go that route I'd look at how some do it with finesse, You tube video or similar.

I'll take a look at my biscuit mounts, They're probably a little worn out as they were on the previous owner's engine. I think I have some 1/8" steel plate laying around and I have a cut off wheel and plenty of drills so that shouldn't be a problem.



I found the engine location guide per TTi's website. I'd rather not pursue the dent the header route as it has more manual labor involved, but we'll see what happens.