Thank you

If you hand polish the heads, they tend to look just like their chrome counterparts.

There are some minute but unique tricks coming down the belt that will surface here soon. Keep an eye out.

Have to finish fabricating them and then find and seize the time to install them. Sometimes just replacing a few bolts is a burden.

Your bracing on your peddles are those rods or tubing and 7075 or 6061 on those brace rods?

If I get your question right, the rods are solid and not hollow tubing.

Also guys, as a reminder since this thread is over a million views and 50+ pages long, it would be helpful if we now have a reference page attached to the question or critic so that I can find it quickly and answer a question or two correctly. I've lost count of what is on here. LOL

pages of "the holy grail" ??? or close to it ?

It's more like Holy Sh888t, how you get that car so light? LOL.

I have to wonder what percentage of the 1,000,000 views are overweight people looking for "Real world weight loss"...



Then they start reading and are like, [ Moparts Family Site - Keep it Friendly ]?

Getting rid of or less carbs is a good start, the old heavy Holley carburetors that is. LOL.

Yes sir................

I have been reading this thread off and on and decided to jump in!

I will add a little background first. I recently retired from a steel mill hot dip galvanizing line. We heated up coils of steel and then galvanized them for the auto industry. Chrysler was my favorite product to run. Todays standards are way better than when most of our cars were made. But there are still sizeable differences in the weight of a lot of pieces that make up a car!
I will use our Chrysler steel coils to be stamped into body parts as an example. The coils coming in had a tolerance. I could tell when a coil was on the heavy side it would suck the heat out of my furnace. Our tolerance on coating was tight on the low side due to corrosion and liberal on the high side due to cost. So when I would slow down the coating would go thin and when I would speed up the coating would go heavy till we got back to steady state. All the while making product in spec. So if you got a coil on the heavy side and coating on the heavy side your new Ram isn't going to rust out but may not get the mileage that your neighbor gets!
I decided to use a box of inside door handles I have as an example. They are shown in my first picture. I thought I was going to be the teacher here but I ended up learning something!
I started to weigh each one on my calibrated postal scale. I have attached a picture of the one that weighed the most at 3.9 ounces.
I will continue in my next reply!

So I continued to weigh the inside door handles till the box was empty. Then I separated left's and right's just to make sure what I found wasn't a side to side thing. My next picture shows the lightest handle on the scale at 3.2 ounces! After a while I could tell the light ones from the heavy ones just by holding them!
So I started looking at them and the lighter ones were different!!
They had the same part number but a different supplier number?
These handles came off 1968 1969 and 1970 B Bodies that I parted out over the years. So I don't know if it was a year thing, second supplier thing or model thing? My last picture shows the back sides with the numbers. So in addition to finding out the weight difference I found out there were two different kinds in the box.
So I will be swapping out my heavy 3.8 or 3.9's for 3.2's and save 1.3 ounces for FREE! I already have some other boxes of parts lined up for the scale!

This is very good interesting info. I like the discovery from the same product compared to a sibling.
The attached photo show one stock inner door latch handle. Till this day I could not/can not find some one to mold cast it out of aluminum or magnesium. The gridlock has me vexed and I will fabricate something to work/look like the original eventually, but time has been fleeting lately.
MoparJ, like you said, I have on occasion also felt a slight hair difference in the same parts since my feel at hand can detect the slightest weight differences after all of this madness.
It's especially fun when it comes free of charge.

Here's the Achilles heel, the dreaded backside that haunts everyone but intrigues me.

thinking here. take just the center spline area from the handle, then, after fabing the handle from your material of choice, "square" the spline for a press and swedge fit into the handle, the handle fabbed to be able to do this. polish the handle and the spline "may" blend in ? it sounds harder than it may be to do. i can visualize what i just described, but i'm afraid i haven't conveyed the message very well.

Make it with no splines and use a set screw like a volume knob.

I'm ready with the next box inside window cranks!
Guess what? Another surprise!
Again I followed the same procedure and weighed my box of what I'll now call salvaged window cranks. There are no left's and right's so I sorted only by weight. The first picture shows the heavy one at 3.8 ounces and the second picture shows the light one at 3.6 ounces. Not as much of a difference as the door handles but again a difference in the same parts. My third picture shows the back sides and I'll let you decide which one is the lighter one.
I also found 2 NOS C Body vent window cranks at 2.9 ounces if you have the muscle to roll up the window!
When I swap out the window cranks I should be over 2 ounces for FREE!