Bought a Ready to run distributor from CRT performance that comes with an built in ignition module and an external coil. Can't get spark. And they haven't returned my calls

Please advise how to wire this. The distributor has a red wire with a female terminal clip and a black wire with a ring terminal.

coil has positive side red wire with a blue stripe and a bare end to the positive clip on the coil
The other negative clip has 2 green wires with a yellow stripe and a bare end

Thanks guys

no instructions?

Looks like red to 12V ignition source and black to coil -

the coil positive primary terminal and the module in the dist both need (1) to be recieving fire (2) and recieving fire in run and in crank. I'm assuming the ballast is bypassed (the ign1/ign2 circuits are tied together) so the seperate run/crank circuit potential (#2) ain't an issue.

I would change "fire" in your response to voltage as it may be confusing.
And I also would not ASSUME the ballast is bypassed . It may be the root of his problem

And no offense meant Robert just trying to helpful to the OP

(1) Noted (2) point taken (3) we're good brother

No instructions other than red to keyed source and black to ground on the distributor. I connected the red coil and the red distributor wire to a key ON source. I connected one of the 2 green coil wires and and the black distributor wire and connected them to ground.
No spark
There is no ballast.
Distributor and coil from CRT performance.

The above photo was the green in from keyed ignition splice temporarily with the red coil wire. (The other goes to my multi meter). I have 12 volts with key on

Wait wait!!!

As I typed I realized maybe I only have 12v when the key is "on". But not when cranking??
Shoot.
I tapped off an accessory from the interior.

Where do you guys like to get a 12v source that's key and supplies 12v during cranking and in the ON positions?
I know I have 12 volts when the key is on. Also when I connected the coil positive to the keyed on wire my volts dropped to 10.6. Coil gets warm. Is that ok?

Pretty much decided CRT Performance SUX!

No info on their website to speak of.

The black has to go to the coil negative, otherwise it will never spark. Nothing else should be on the coil negative terminal.

You will need 12V on the red wire in both start and run, a quick jumper to the battery will do that for testing purposes, but you need to splice the IGN1 and IGN2 wires together to feed the red wire. Those wires should be present at the ballast, since you don't say what the vehicle is the simplest method is to jumper out the ballast and take the red wire to the coil +. Assuming the coil from CRT can handle full 12V, the site's instructions leave something to be desired, like instructions.

What Supercuda said. Pull the yellow wire off of the "ign" terminal on the starter relay to disable the starter (no need to run down the batt for testing & when it does end up starting using the alt to charge up a depleted battery causes problems) & with a helper to hold the key to "start" get the wiring right so everything that needs to be fed is being fed in ign2 (cranking, the brown wire circuit) and in ign1 (run, the bue wire circuit) and also get everything straight on the neg coil primary terminal.

be aware that jumpering the start and run wires together, if not done correctly, can / will backfeed to the starter relay which can then cause it to have the Start signal in the run position which could result in constant starter engagement.

like this?

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac20/jimmygoodman/318heiwiringdiagram_zpsbf5039a8.jpg

you eliminate the ballast resistor..

tie all the wires together that used to go to the ballast. then run a wire from that connection over to the coil. now it has power in the start and run position... make sure the black wire goes to a good ground.

Yes CRT has min instruction and they have not returned my calls or emails. I am not a mechanic and some guidance would have been nice. I know this is basic stuff. Their product seems decent for whay I am doing. Customer support sucks

Ok so this is not traditional as this 318 is going in a roached out 1998 Dakota frame which will become a rat rod 1950 Studebaker 2r5 pick up.
I eliminated the engine harness wiring
No old school ballast as this is a later model

I have an accessory feed that has 12 volts in start and run positions.
I will tie that into the coil 12v positive and the distributor's red wire
I will connect the coil negative to the black distributor's wire

Do I ground those black wires?

The CRT ready to run coil comes with two wires spliced together at the negative terminal on the coil. Would one of those negative wires go to the distributor black and the other to a tachometer feed maybe? Or to ground?

Roger from CRT got back to me. I did what he said. And what you all said.
Fired right up! Psyched!

Red from distributor goes to the red coming off the coil

Black from distributor goes to (1) green wire off the coil...other green off coil can be tied off or goes to your tachometer if applicable.

Run power to your fuse box and splice into any 12V power lead that works off ignition switch...bypass any ballast resistor if applicable

Thank you all. Again!

Yeah in the archives in the "elec topics" then clicking on the diagram in "awesome ECU wiring diagram" it shows the yellow wire which triggers the starter relay to crank is T'd over to the downstream side of the ballast. I always thought that was a misprint but someone says it is correct in a few apps (I ain't seen it). Yes you would want to eliminate that "T" if it is present & you are connecting the blue/brown wire circuits. EDIT with the key "on" if there is no voltage at the yellow "ign" wire/terminal on the starter relay you're good