Thanks Pat! I.m really happy with them. Matt really had a great idea for the outer wheel house.

Matt cut a piece out of the new sheetmetal piece above the rear crossmember. We didn't want to disturb the lip/profile of the lower edge that sits agains the deckled

The driver's side quarter had a bid dent on the character line. Picture before...

I've got a 70 Cuda restomod that has snowballed out of control. Im currently 8 years into a 3 year build....Im sure many of you can sympathize. So....my original intent for this Roadrunner was for it to be simple. I had decided on just doing some sheetmetal repair and as far as drivetrain, I was going use a Gen 3 6.1L hemi, 23 spline 833 4 speed manual trans, and an 8 3/4" rearend. I didn't want this project to spiral out of control either so I was dead set against change. I just wanted to keep it simple to speed up the build, save money, and not have to cut the floor pans. I had a 4 speed completely rebuilt/ painted and I bought all the parts to convert from a 727 auto to a 4 speed manual.........and then one day I added up the costs of a installing an 833 (see list below) and I realized how much just a 4 speed costs.....I decided to install a TR6060 6 speed instead of an 23 spline 833. The 833 4 speed would have been easier and faster, but...

1. I had a 50K mile TR6060 sitting in the shop....with everything needed to complete the swap. I had parted out a 2009 Challenger SRT8 so I had the stock twin disc clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, hydraulic throwout, hydraulic line/reservoir, clutch pedals, etc....just waiting to be used. And it was originally paired to a 6.1 so it was easy to assemble.
2. I started adding up the value of all the parts for the 4 speed swap: rebuilt 833, Lakewood SFI Bell housing, new Mcleod clutch/pressure plate, Mopar Flywheel, hydraulic throwout bearing setup, z bar, fork, actuator rods, boot/seals, fork pivot, pedal assembly, etc and I thought... "Why am I spending this much for a 4 speed?!?!?!?!?" I'll could sell it all to pay for the tunnel and crossmember fabrication work."
3. I didn't want to cut the tunnel and floor for the 6 speed but in reality I want to drive this car to work 1 or 2 days a week (70 mile roundtrip) so why go to the trouble of a Gen 3 hemi with a 4 speed?!?!

Pictures coming soon...

At first I really didn't want to modify the floor pans since they were pretty solid, but I finally came to my senses. I'm really excited about the subframe connectors, which are made of 2"x4" steel rectangular tubing that channel through the floor pans. Should really help to eliminate flex and improve rigidity.

Right quarter panel went on after that

Rear window channel

Rear window patches are from AMD...

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The numbers matching 383 came out of the car and one of my "windowed" 6.1L hemi blocks went in the bay for mockup.




I've got a hollow TR6060 case/shell that I use for mockup. It went in for a rough cut on the tunnel...

driver's side quarter panel rust:



rust cut out:



Patch panel roughed in:

I took the dash frame to a local powdercoater, who blasted and powder coated it in a satin black. The only blasting cabinet he had big enough to blast this dash used coal slag, which is quite aggressive so I was worried it would warp the metal. I asked him to turn the pressure way down; he said he used 40 psi (instead of his usual 100 psi) and it turned out great! I am really happy with the texture and finish. Plus I got rid of the UGLY marroon.

I don't have a good picture of the dash frame beforehand, but the metal around the VIN plate will give you an idea of what it looked like. This car had been sitting in a field in western kansas without a windshield for more then 1o years so all the paint had been baked off the top of the dash frame

[img]http://i.imgur.com/sLTWloQ.jpg?1[/img]





After getting the dash frame pwdercoated and buying a new M&H dash harness, I started thinking, which is never good for my wallet. I realized I didn't want to work with the taxi dash gauges so i began looking for a 1968 rallye dash frame, which I bought off facebook. After considering dash options, I decided on a Dakota Digital unit for several reasons. First, I really like the look. Secondly, the TR6060 doesn't have a speedo output so Dakota has a GPS based speedometer box which is plug and play with the Charger VHX gauges.

I tried to sell these Challenger SRT seats for 6 months with no luck so I guess I'll use them in the Roadrunner. Usually I sell stuff and 2 months later I wish I hadn't so this was a nice change!





The roadrunner has never had front seats in it for the last 20+ years so It was fun to sit in the car for the first time

amazing body work. can't even tell the window channel was done.

Thanks Dave! Matt really does incredible work.

View from below which shows how the 2x4" ties into the rear frame rails





This picture is looking to the rear of the car and shows the driver's side subframe connector which channels through the torsion bar crossmember and ties into the forward frame rail:



Same rail just viewed from the side:



Passenger side subframe connector tying into the front subframe rail:

I'm debating some interesting rear suspension options at the moment...stay tuned

Well...My intent was to stay simple, but this project has snowballed.

After some thinking, I've decided on independent rear suspension! For a commuter restomod, I decided I wanted something different then leaf springs. I was looking at a 4 link setup, a 2 link/panhard bar setup, and IRS.
I part out SRT8's for a weekend gig and I have several complete IRS setups laying around. Matt set one up under the car and decided it wouldn't be too crazy to adapt. He had been contemplating doing the same thing to his wife's car so he's been thinking about it awhile. Ultimately we decided it would be worth pursuing.

I love the way my 2010 Challenger SRT8 handles/drives so that helped greatly in the decision. The K frame will need to be shortened 2 inches in the middle and the original mounting pads will need to be cut off so the IRS frame can slide between the Roadrunners rear frame railst. This is the IRS K frame before modification:



First thing, the K frame was reinforced/boxed in a few areas:

The IRS frame needed to be shortened 2.0" but the 2.0" could not come from the middle of the frame because of the differential mounting bolts. Here a few pictures of the K frame to better illustrate the cuts. The first picture is looking at the IRS frame from behind. The cut is a 1" slice that was taken from the right side, just outside of the right differential mounting bolt. A 1" slice was also taken out of the forward bar of the IRS frame (not pictured)



The next two pictures are also taken from the back side of the IRS frame. The first picture is the passenger side where a 1.0" vertical cut was made to both bars of the IRS frame.



This picture shows the "Z" shaped cut on the driver's side-just outside of the left differential mounting bolt. On the driver's side a straight 1" slice was not possible duet to the contours of the IRS frame and the left side differential bolt bushing.



This is not the differential Ill be using. I plan to use a limited slip 3.91 Getrag differential

These are not wheels I will be using but this is right height....TaDAAAAAAAA!!!