I first saw this car in 2000. It was a really solid western Kansas car but was missing fenders,hood,grill,auto transmission, radiator, front seat, differential, etc. I had a deal struck at $1200 but I came back with the money and the seller backed out because someone else had offered more $$$. Lesson learned: always have a trailer and cash when you go to buy....but that's ok because I was a broke college kid and would've had to sell it. I tracked the buyer and car down in July of 2015 and bought the car-the price was much higher this time. I had to buy this 68 Roadrunner post car, a 68 roadrunner post parts car, and a 69 GTX with no drivetrain (fender tag showed it to be a red 4 speed, dana 60 car) in order to get a good deal. I sold the 68 post RR parts car and the 69 GTX to recoup some money.

I've really struggled with what to do with this car for many reasons. I wanted to keep this build simple because I already have a marathon 70 Barracuda build ( http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/85958-Heavily-modified-1970-Cuda?highlight=) that is almost 9 years in the making. I wanted to keep it simple...I really did...because:

1. I've just got way too many projects going for a guy in his mid 30's with 5 kids. Although I have too many projects, it's getting to be difficult to find a car this clean so I have a problem turning loose of solid projects.

2. This car has it's numbers matching 383, but I already have one original mopar (a 69 survivor charger w/ 383) and I'm more of a restomod guy. I want fuel injection. I've also parted out over a lot of SRT8s over the past couple years so I have all the 6.1L hemi engines I could ever want.

3. I just like to shift. Originally I wanted to mate an A833 4 speed behind the Gen 3 hemi because it would be easy and I wouldn't have to cut up the floor pans/tunnel/torsion bar crossmember. I had all the 4 speed parts collected, rebuilt, and ready to go. Then I came to my senses. I had been driving my 6 speed 2010 Challenger SRT8 and had been loving every shift. I kept wondering "why go easy with a 4 speed when I won't be happy with it?". Then I added up the value of all the 4 speed parts and hydraulic throwout setup and it was crazy how much I could sell it all for. I had several TR6060's and pedal/hydraulic clutch setups in stock from late model Challengers I had parted. Decision made....CUT UP THE FLOOR AND TUNNEL!!


Ultimately, I want something reliable that gets 20mpg. I don't want to wait 5 years for it. I want to be able to drive it to work 1 or 2 days a week (60 mile round trip) and not worry about it being parked in the parking lot. I post this with the hope that I can maintain momentum since people may be checking up on the project. Wish me luck.

I finally started rolling on this project in about September of 2016. Luckily, I have a great buddy Matt, who is an EXCELLENT fabricator. I wouldn't be doing this if I didn't have his expertise to lean on. Matt has never steered me wrong and he always has great ideas. Matt is the one doing all the metal work. I'll stick to mechanical work. Metal is his thing.



Video added Febn 2024 with preview video of finished product and story of how I found/bought it:

What drew me to this car was the solid nature of the frame rails and torsion bar crossmember.

I was blown away by how solid the trunk floor was. Usually B body floor pans are toast by this age.

The fenders look terrible but they're really quite solid.





It had lots of rash/dents down the sides. The right quarter has so many dents/waves that's its not worth trying to save. I'm sure someone could have...

The doors and quarters are dented but solid. The lower quarters show some rust behind the wheels.

At first glance, the rear window channel and both rear lower corners looked really solid. From a distance it looks like it has a vinyl top but once you get close, you realize that a previous owner used a rubberized coating to simulate a vinyl top. I think it's kind of ingenious!

The dash was mostly complete and in decent shape. I had the dash frame blasted and powder coated and I ordered a new dash wiring harness with the original intent of rebuilding the original; but my plans soon changed. More to come on the dash...



It wasn't a completely loaded car, but it had a good color combo: red with white/red interior.

Remember these nasty looking fenders???





It had lots of rash/dents down the sides. The right quarter has so many dents/waves that's its not worth trying to save. I'm sure someone could have...

After owning the car a year, I finally got tired of looking at the fenders and pulled them. I used a heat gun to warm up the rubberized undercoating on the back side and scraped it all off little by little. The fenders were originally from a satellite and had trim running down the top edge. A buddy welded up all the emblem holes, wheel lip trim holes, and the trim holes along the top ridge of both fenders. Then I took them to a local metal finishing company and they used aluminum oxide to strip the fenders. When I picked them up I was pleased. The guy who owned the business was blown away by how solid they were. They do have a few dings but nothing bad. This is how they looked after picking them up

The fenders were cleaned with wax/grease remover and then fender metal was roughed in with hammer/dolly, spoons, and files.








The antenna hole was welded closed.

Metal was then ground with mud hog and 80 grit. Edges were hit with rolls scotchbrite one wire wheel. The entire surface was then DA'd again with 80 grit before being cleaned again with wax and grease remover.

Then fenders, nose filler panel, and radiator support were sprayed with 2 coats of Spies and Hecker etch primer, followed by 2 coats of Spies and Hecker 5400 surfacer.

I'm with you on #3

How come the 70 Bee is not listed on your list?

I wish I could have kept the Bee. It was a really solid 383/4 speed post car. I felt I needed to sell the 70 bee to fund my restomod builds. I miss it

Originally, I planned to use an A833 4 speed so I wouldn't have to modify the floor on and torsion bar crossmember. I bought an aluminum flywheel to mate a Gen 3 hemi to a 4 speed. I also bought a Mopar Performance SFI hydro formed bellhousing (part # P5153602) that's designed to mate a late model Hemi to an 833 4 speed or Tremec TKO 5 speeds. It could be used with a mechanical or hydraulic clutch so I bought an American Powertrain hydraulic setup. I also bought a McLeod clutch rated to 500hp.

But my plans changed.....more to come on the transmission...

That bellhousing is a monster.

Yeah-the bell housing is a lot heavier duty then expected.

I actually bought 2 flywheels. I bought the aluminum Mopar flywheel first and then came across the steel flywheel for $100 so I bought it too. turns out Hays actually made both the aluminum flywheel and the steel flywheel for Mopar Performance. They are both 130 tooth.
The aluminum flywheel is 14 pounds and the steel is about 37 pounds. I WAS leaning towards the steel flywheel since this build will mostly be a cruiser/commuter.

I'll have a factory built 6.1L short block from a 56K mile 2009 Challenger I parted out last year. I have a set of C&C ported 6.1 heads (with upgraded springs) from another SRT I parted out. I also bought an Arrington SR2B camshaft for $200 on another forum. Since stock hp rating is 425, I should be between 475 and 500hp at the crank.

I called McLeod, Ram, and Centerforce about what clutch options they would suggest for my scenario. Since this is a "budget" build, I didn't want to break the bank with a twin disc setup and Centerforce only suggested a twin so they were out. Ram said their best single disc was good do 400hp so they were out. McLeod suggested their Super Street Pro kit which includes a pressure plate/throw out bearing and is a dual friction unit. One side is ceramic and the other side is organic. They say it's good to 500hp and is quite comfortable to drive. I pulled the trigger. Summit/Jegs had the best price. Part number is 75209 if anyone needs it for a similar build.

The 833 I planned to use was a 23 spline 833 from a 1970 Super Bee I used to own. It had been mistreated so I had it torn down, rebuilt, and repainted. I actually asked for a high temp paint in a steel color but I got aluminum instead. Oh well, I didn't care enough to have it repainted.

The K frame is next. This is nothing new anymore but for those who don't know...

1. In order to run a Gen 3 Hemi A/C compressor, the steering box mount gussets need trimmed for clearance and the A/C compressor rear mounting ear needs to be cut off.
2. The plates that bolt to the block and attach to the stock engine mounts Are from TTI. They fit seem well but they did need some trimming for clearance on some corners
3. The LX/LC (6.1L) vertical mount oil filter will not fit. I found a 45 degree oil filter adapter from a Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8. Also, a shorter oil filter is required. A stock filter is pictured.

Here are some pictures of the A/C compressor.







This pictures shows where the trimmed rear mounting ear was cut off. It was at the rear end of the compressor and tried to occupy the same space as the drivers side engine mount.