^^ same here

Sounds like a plan for me too. Currently, I have the Braille up front running to the cut-off switch by the shifter (morse cable to rear push/pull). That aluminum cable could be the ticket to put the battery in the rear and take the 21# off the nose.

While researching batteries, I yanked the previous owners wiring slop out from the rear mounted, get this- (2) marine batteries at 70# each! I weighed the 2 ga. wire running up to the front at 8.5 #. I'd assume the aluminum wire would be about half of that?

Yes sir, you must have ground buss-bars along the entire route as well.

ParX
Believe it or not, what you see is an optical illusion. It is simply one side of a polyurethane rear shackle bushing sitting right side up on a bed of two wide rubber washers that one can find at any good True Value hardware store. They are usually found in those multi plastic bin farms that have every screw,bolt and rubber items on the planet. If not, Mcmasters should have 'em.

Yes, these pins do come on the pricey side, but mad adjustable and the locking pins slip into a pivoting slot hole in the main post that contours to any hood slope.
They are beefy though and strong. My old hand made pins were wearing out at the tips after almost 8 years of sliding on and off the steel hood at first then the aluminum hood.

Here's the Accel lightning cable. Shaved 3-1/2 Lbs off. Previous copper cable at more or less 18'-20' ft was 6 Lbs.

Clams

muscles.

Those would be a nice addition to my 64. Now aluminum vent window Channels??? Uhm.
Doug

Doug. You suspected them first. The weight reduction is rather inviting as you can see. 50 Lbs shaving just on the shells compared.
Trust me, I'm looking very closely at aluminum vent wing channels. Quite difficult without the time and materials.

The very extreme rare items which I've only seen once many years ago are the inner window crank mechanisms in the light alloy. For that, I made a few concessions and made some rather new editions that function great. I'll post some pictures of the inner guts of my current steel doors to show the set up.

So here goes for GY3, Chrisnben and other early B-body guys as well as anyone with a Post sedan steel door car.
Though this procedure that I performed about 20 years back may seem crude and all, it does retain the functionality of the door without compromising the window cranking up and down as well as the lock/unlock latching. After the inner door panels are installed, it all disappears and all that is left is a stock smooth looking door.
The stock steel door shell without anything weighs approximately 40 Lbs as indicated in the earlier post. With this being done, I removed close to 4 Lbs.
Laughing?? But wait, there is more to this.

Here is the homemade aluminum door panel complete with aluminum upper door sill. Super lightweight indeed and clean looking.
"Breaking news" Later this Winter, these are being replaced with correct slightly heavier A-990 door panels in exchange of proper look.
But wait, there is more.

This was the drivers side inners with the cross hatch window regulator hole sawed out. Believe it or not, the window track bridge on the upper side with the slotted cavity is entirely made out of aluminum using an original as a template.
All this shaved an additional 4-5 Lbs.

Oh, lets not forget the door lock pins which can be found at your local Pep boys in black plastic in place of the steel types. OOOhps, I crossed the taboo edge of never using plastic. Shame on me. LOL.
This shaved an additional 2 ounces. LOL.

Wow.
Who within us remembers "The Million Dollar movie"?

Now if Thumper could only have a Dollar for each...... he probably would built his own Street race haunt at sea level and have it open to everyone ala the late great Big Willie. RIP

Gee, I'd buy stamping machines to stamp out parts out of aluminum and effectively take the weight off the worlds shoulders.

Carry on. LOL.

Whoda thunk.............Way cool to hit a million but WAY cooler for the wealth of knowledge..........thankxx all........

True that!

Very nice! For some reason I have a problem cutting on mine. I'm all about little tricks and lightening components here and there but always hesitant to cut into it. Maybe it stems from seeing the cool lightweight cars cut and pruned until there's nothing left. Deflowering, so to speak.

Yes, yes. Understood of course.
These steel doors are getting more and more hard to find, let alone in good condition at all.
Of course when I did this, I was under the assumption that I would never find a set of lightweight doors, so I went in with scalpel and drill knowing that the car is a lifer with me anyway.
I would never want a door car to not function as a door car should, but I was searching and lurking for wins at the haunts and anything goes in that arena.
But to your point GY3, you're right. There are hundreds if not thousands of small places within a chassis that can give effectively and safely an ounce or more with good planning. I'm sure a lot of them have been performed and the norm here.

I suspect that there are a few hidden well conceived ideas still out there to be applied.
Why? I sometimes discover them by accident on my own car or squint and hiss when I see 'em on a F.A.S.T swindler. LOL.

Jenny Craig has crept into my head.I have been on the scale at E/town & Attco so I have a baseline.I will be adding some weight before my diet.
"J" bars,engine limiter and 'chute are at the top of the bucket list. I hope to take over 100 lbs off the nose and start taking from wherever I can.Unlike GY3,I will cut whever needed without compromising integrity.
I will try to document as I loose,,,,,,,,,

Geez, you got a tin can, I'm almost 1,000lbs heavier....