For a 4 speed AAR I would like them to appear as OE as possible but I do drive it hard at times and I have separated my driver's side mount causing the trans mount bushing to shift and break the pivot ball that screws into the bell housing.

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Schumaher - engineswaps.com

MityMounts from DynaTech if your after a stock look but with a steel interlock to prevent seperation

You could make your own. The bolts can be found at Fastenal. I countersunk my bolt heads. Motor mount upgrade

Very cool !

Are truck mounts different? I had a big block D200 that was upgraded to a diesel mount which had built in locking tabs.

One note of caution which happened to my D200. It was only a low 14 sec truck but at 4900lbs and some trailering duty, it was hard on mounts too. As soon as I resolved the problem on the driver's side, I torn the passenger side downwards.

Most store bought mounts today are from overseas, and not any good. The cheapest way is to put a new mount back in for smoothness, then make a cable that hooks from the head down to the K frame. Paint it orange and hid it behind something and 9 out of 10 people won't know it's there.

X2!!!!!!!!!

$100+ for two screws added?

I'll pass and do it myself.

Came up with the same "cure" back in 88 when the driver's side mount failed in my 64 300, no one had them so I had to fix it myself. One long, horizontal bolt later and it was done.

Thanks for the input guys, I use to do a similar upgrade to my Z/28 to keep from running solids, drilled a hole all the way through, tapped the metal and jam nut on the backside. It always worked great, allowed it to move and cushion but not move far enough to pull itself apart. I may have to look into that cause like mentioned I would really rather not spend $200 on a set of mounts.

I might of tried the bolt method on here if I would have thought of it instead of the expensive mounts I purchased..

If you would have seen how much movement the "made in India" NAPA mounts had ( truly scared the heck out of me when I had the hood up) Expense was not an option.... LOL

Might not be what you're looking for, but I use a Moroso solid steel mount on the driver side, and a stock rubber mount on the passenger side. It transmits a little more vibration than the stock mounts, but its not as bad as you might think. Most wouldn't even notice it. The passenger side absorbs most of it at idle and I don't mind feeling the motor a little. Helps me be more in tune with what its doing. At least I know with confidence that the engine is staying exactly where its supposed to.

My brother had a 69 Buick Wildcat and the driver's side mount tore in half. Turns out they changed the mounts somewhere mid-year and the reproduction engine mounts the parts store sold did not fit (tried a set from every parts store in town that could get them).

He ended up removing the torn mount and replaced the rubber with steel. Once back together it did not vibrate like some who said it would. This may be because GM cars have a frame and rubber body biscuits?