So I pulled the engine and trans from a 94 Ram that I originally bought for the overdrive but decided to use both the engine and trans in my 67.
Today the new oil pan and pickup showed up and I am thinking I should have got a new oil pump and timing chain while I was at it,seems to me I saw some sort of chain for the sb with a tensioner?

I am going to go headers with an X pipe and 2.25 dual exhaust,can I do any others mods like maybe a little more cam or is it limited by the 94 computer?

I have never been much of a sb guy,am I missing anything in the way of upgrades or mods for nothing more than a good driver?

I am retaining the factory 94 computer and fuel injection.

I would consider a Hughes regrind cam. However, the SBEC controller is not going to support much altering of engine vacuum (long duration cam) so you mods will limited. Some have said truck V-10 rocker arms offer a small gain in performance as well. You may also consider popping the heads off and opening up the pushrod pinch in the intake ports and cleaning up the bowls for a noticeable improvement in power. The intake manifold could also be replaced a with a M-1 MPI (now obsolete) or a Hughes modded RPM air gap to yield a few ponies.

Was it on here or elsewhere that I read about replacing the stock air cleaner with a ram-air type dual snorkel w/ hoses? I'll see if I can find it. Price was kind of spendy as I remember but was thinking of doing something similar with pull-your-own on my Durango.



Tim

There are Mopar Performance plastic port grinding templates for 1994-1995 heads, but they are no longer sold. i have a set, as do others here on Moparts.

There is a 91 AKI fuel Mopar Performance PCM that advances the ignition timing 12 degrees and leans the factory full throttle air fuel ratio from a very rich 10.5 to 1 to about 12.8 to 1. There was a Mopar Performance cam sold to go with this PCM. i have one of these PCMs but find that in summer it needs 96+ AKI octane gasoline not to ping at full throttle above 3700 rpm.

There were Mike Leach built tri-y headers sold by Mopar Performance.

Years ago here on Moparts Jesse Lackman posted that the Dodge OEM rockers that were nominally 1.6 ratio, actually measured out to 1.7 ratio.

I am not certain that the V10 rockers "wipe" the valve stem tips properly.
Seems like i remember that the Viper rockers certainly do not wipe correctly.

For hot rod use the MPI/M1 manifold is certainly superior.

Offset grinding the crank to bring the quench clearance from typically 0.088 to 0.040 or better while gaining a few cubic inches might be considered.

Milling the heads, then equallizing the combustion chamber CC's to 60 CC's each might be considered. It is not unusual to find cracks between the valves on Magnum heads. This may be due to improper induction hardening at the factory. These cracks seldom go deep enough to leak coolant.

Having the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested is not a bad idea.
I think the two highest flowing injectors should be put in cylinders 7 and 8.
Others believe that high mileage Magnum v8s on tear down typically show cylinders 1 and 2 having more damage signs from lean detonation.
The four end cylinders may get more airflow from the stock "beer barrel" intake manifold than the four inner cylinders. They may benefit from having the four highest flowing fuel injectors.

I have read this before as well, that the factory engineers calibrated the magnums rich enough at full throttle to be able to run without any exhaust system and still not lean out. Anything you can do to help flow is beneficial here. I have a digital copy of the MP porting templates for magnum if that's something you want to pursue you can PM me.

I left my conversion basically stock, however everything I have read indicates the stock ECU, which is not able to be reprogrammed by the way, won't tolerate much in the way of mods. I would focus on cleaning up the heads, tightening quench and freeing up the exhaust, although if you don't plan on pulling the heads I'd leave it as-is.

I don't think the stock ECU would like the aftermarket M1 efi intake, but I have no practical experience with it. I can tell you the stock intake is known leak oil into the intake tract, hughes sells a kit to remedy this.

If you drill out the holes on your crank sensor, you can slot it and move it sideways, this will gain you a bit of ignition timing as playing with the distributor won't do it on the magnum engines.

I think Chrysler did the right thing when they set up the full throttle air to fuel ratio very rich at full throttle.

As the graph below from a Porsche engineer shows, pinging can be surpressed with a very rich air fuel ratio



This allowed a relatively high compression ratio for day to day part throttle driving.
The Magnum 5.9 V8 is listed in the 1994-1995 FSM as 9.1:1 static
But later advertised as 8.9:1
In the "real world" it is probably something like 8.7:1 static even counting carbon deposit build up.

The MI Congressman John Dingle Jr "passing power emissions loophole" used to allow unlimited HC and NOx above 80% throttle, so 10.5 air to fuel ratio was legal. CO is very low at very rich mixtures anyway.

Rep Henry Waxman and Rep Pelosi stripped Dingle of his chairmanship and did away with the passing power "loophole" about the year 2009.

I have actually wondered
"how high a dynamic compression ratio could a Magnum V8 run on 92 AKI gasoline"

The "rich mixture spark miss-fire limit"
or what the Germans call the "inflammabilty limit"
is around
9 to 1 air fuel ratio, or
0.61 lamhda in the above Gruden graph from Porsche.

Maybe if higher flow 30 to 32 lb/hr fuel injectors were fitted
( 1994-1995 Magnum 5.9 V8 #53030262 factory injectors are about 27.5 lb/hr at 3 Bar standard measuring pressure)
maybe the compression ratio could be raised
2 numbers
without pinging or detonation?

When I had my 94, I put on Crower 1.7 rockers[cheaper and better hp wise than the overpriced MP cam] MP pcm, MP headers, V10 cat[ larger in and out and less dough than V8 unit], MP/Turbo Action shift kit, 1st design F&B throttle body[wow!], Ford Motorsport injectors[recommended by MP tech line because cheaper and have better spray pattern], K&N FIPK, modded TPS[made a huge difference in throttle response], 340 timing set[to take retard out of oe units].

Thinking about replacing the heads after reading a bunch last night,I really don't want to get to crazy with this build as it is "supposed" to be my girlfriends car :-)


Is there a better timing chain for these things?

The factory Magnum engine is seriously choked for car duty. Scrap the intake and camshaft. Anything with more than .410" lift will be an improvement.

Get an carbureted intake and throw a Holley fuel injection or FiTech set up and you will have a wild combination.

I don't currently run a Magnum though I have in the past.

If I were playing with one I would get the quench dialed in around .040". That beats back the nasty trade-off between compression, A/F ratio and timing. Gaining full advantage would require customized tuning which I understand is hard to do with the stock ECM.

Even if you run it "as is" it is the most durable and driveable SB made.

Yep, and if it's his girlfriend's car, best to leave it as-is. It'll start and run great and be dead nuts reliable while having more power than the SB engines back in the day. Bear in mind the 5.2 has 230 net hp as per stock ratings, the 340 had around 240 net hp.

The other issue with the stock heads is that they like to crack. The Engine Quest units from Indy, Hughes or even your local machine shop are way better for the cracking issue and flow better. Flow is even better than the R/T heads that were sold by MP.

The cracking issue has been beat to death. Most of the cracks don't leak. There must be hundreds of thousands of Magnum heads on the streets today with the famous crack.

Of course if you have the $$$ the EQ heads are very nice. They can be had either Mag face or LA face.

http://www.aamidwest.com/enginequest/cylinder-heads/chrysler-magnum-head/

Now is the time for Blazin' Bob to jump in and warn you to get the heads either from EQ or a reputable dealer. There are lower quality Chinese castings out there. Caveat Emptor!

R.

Think I have a plan,now I just have to break the news to her that she needs to pony up for at least half the price of the new heads :-)

Ok,who do we trust?
Thinking I will get the heads with the 2.02s

Well, the link I listed above IS EngineQuest.

If you're closer to the West coast there's Brian at IMM.

If you're in the middle of the country there's Hughes and others.

I'd check with an engine guy before paying extra for bigger valves.

I think Blazin' Bob got taken by a sleazy Ebay seller. Not anyone you've heard of before.

R.