I just installed some launcher springs on my 64 fury,and the front segment is 20 inches instead of 21.My new drive line was a bit to long in the first place,and now it is to short.How much engagement in the trans is required?Can I just cut off a couple of inches from the input shaft?
My pinion angle is 5 degrees positive at the pinion,canI shim this 12 degrees or do I need to change my spring perches.The car sits lower than I would like,will longer shackes change the pinion angle?

Your post is a little confusing, but here is a link to the Dana/Spicer website that has a program called Torsional Analysis where you can plug in your dimensions and angles and it will calc acceptable parameters for you. Hope it helps.

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/demenu.aspx

I have multiple issues.Drive shaft length.And how much of the slip yoke needs to be engaged in the transmission.
If I change the ride height of the car from the rear with longer shackles will it change the pinion angle.
With the pinion angle 5 degrees up,and needing it to be 5-7 degrees down,can it be shimmed that much.This is just measured at the diff's yoke.
I hope this is a little clearer.

What are you measuring the angle from.... dont use
the ground

When you put SS springs on a B body you need to change the front spring hangars for the SS springs. They are obviously about one inch longer as all SS springs are made on A body dimensions. Second, push drive shaft into tail housing all the way, then pull out 3/4 of an inch and get a CENTER TO CENTER length from u joint to u joint. That is the measurement you need to get a new drive shaft made or old one shortened. Don't cut output shaft on your tranny. And don't tell a shop to just add or subtract a certain amount, again you will want center to center measurement. (Buddy did it that way and it took 3 driveshaft changes before he finally did it correctly, he's a chevelle guy!) Finally, Mr. P body is correct. I won't enter a argument here but I measure the angle difference between the pinion and the drive shaft. 12* seems like more than you could ever shim out and still be on centering pins. Like stated above, measure angle difference between pinion and driveshaft and if it is more than 5* out of correct, reweld new perches on. Good Luck, JP.

When I checked the pinion angle at the rear yoke I put the magnetic angle tool on the yoke.So to do it right you said to take the angle from the drive shaft and the angle from the yoke and subtract the two or divide?Should the rearend yoke be pointing toward the ground,or is that irelevent?
On the driveshaft issue,having moved the rear forward is ok,a slightly shorter wheelbase is a plus.I was not sure how much travel the drive shaft needed so as not too bottom out in the trans.
I may be making more out of this than there needs to be.

Jason, you need to get the angle on the yoke, and the difference in what the driveshaft is, the pinion will normally point down some, the whole idea is relly to be 0 under acelleration, on the driveshaft 50/50 will work and a little less will also work depending on how much suspension movement you have. are you about to finish up that 64? Going to the track this year? Catch you later Glenn

Far from finishing,someone else can.For sale.I just had some air shocks on cause the factory springs were toast.And broke one,So I decided to put the springs on and get it right.Just running into extra that I didn't want to do.Aren't you working on a 63 dodge?jason

Jason, I've got a 63 Dodge, but not doing anywork on it yet, just gathering a few parts when I can find them, what are you wanting for the 64?

I would like to get 12 for it,with a bunch of misc.engine parts.Time to focus on the home and such.Can get back to cars later,if we still have a viable economy?!