Is there a premium green bearing set for the 8.75. I ask because I replaced mine twice in less than 1000 miles. Drive style is mildly wild with 500 ft.lbs. of torque in an A-Body (Mustang and Camaro eater.) On deep country roads, Should I look for another problem? Should I think about cone style?

No popcorn here, just a broken Mopar, again,, got an answer?

Make sure the axles aren't bumping tightly against adjuster block in diff. Happened to me long time ago. Had to shave end of axles down a little.

Thank you

Switch to the tapered bearings and buy Dr. Diff heavy duty flanges.

Best advice you'll get on the subject.

I agree with the above posts.
I really don't understand why anyone would go with the green bearings.
Especially on the street.
Just my

Hmm, from Dr. Diff's own website http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/


Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain

Drawbacks of the OEM design

An OEM adjustable, Set 7 (A7) tapered wheel bearing is definitely strong but it is has a few drawbacks.

The bearing is flipped around backward, so the race is captive between it and the axle flange. This means the bearing must float in the housing end and requires an adjuster, thrust block or thrust pin. Of course, an adjuster, thrust block or thrust pin must pass through the center of the differential. A hole drilled in the cross shaft of a 4 pinion carrier creates a stress riser that is prone to breaking. A 2 pinion carrier allows the thrust block to pass around it unobstructed, but the 2 pinion design also limits the differential’s strength.

Axle spline engagement also suffers because the width of the thrust block (which must have room to slide side to side) protrudes into the splined area of the side gears. This limits spline engagement in differentials with a 2 piece cone or clutch-hub/side gear arrangement.

Beaded steel and foam gaskets don’t keep water from running into the housing end and into the non-sealed wheel bearing. Don’t forget to check your pickup’s A7 wheel bearings if you ever back a boat into the water.

Axle flange stand-out is not held constant unless you blueprint the axle lengths. Measure the axle flange stand-out on both sides of any stock 8 3/4″ rearend. Because of production tolerances, a single adjuster causes the axle flange to stick out farther on 1 side than the other.

The length of both axles, and the housing width is critically dependent on each other. Because everyone uses tape measurements to specify axle and housing lengths, making a set of axles with adjustable set 7 wheel bearings for a custom application is very hard. Axle flange standout varies greatly unless the axles are cut long, installed then blue printed to length.

The need for non-adjustable wheel bearings

Most of these problems can be avoided by installing non-adjustable sealed ball “Green” wheel bearings. The name comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. The company has since been purchased by Bearing Technologies.

Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.

I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.

Sorry but it is a many times discussed, STRONGLY opinionated subject. Think the current election

My vote is for the tapered Timken style. As I was taught, The factory engineers were not STUPID, The cars were designed to go 100K + miles and did so in most cases. Then some uneducated person comes along and thinks they can "IMPROVE" on their design. A few key words here are UNEDUCATED, and IMPROVE.
MY recollection is that the Green bearings came in to popularity when Someone published that they would improve one's 1/4 mile ET due to less rolling resistance of a ball versus Timken style bearing.
HMM While that may have been true ? (it's never proven to my knowledge). Everyone jumped on this MAGICAL performance improvement. Over the "years" It has been noted that while the above "MAY" have been true their longevity did not stand up to daily usage or cornering abuse.
OK, so we now have 2'nd, 3'rd, and maybe even 4'th generation bearings that "supposedly" correct the issues of the GREEN BALL BEARING longevity wise.
Myself, being and old fart with 30 or so years of engineering and 50+ years of ??? Say stay with what works and before changing it, ask yourself WHY ??

More

I've been running and installing nothing but Green Bearings for the last 30 yrs on my vehicles or customers vehicles without a SINGLE ISSUE/ZERO PROBLEMS/ZERO FAILURES on street use, road course, drag strip, etc, etc

I have seen and dealt with others having problems/failures, usually it's traced back to "installation error", failure to properly measure axle depth BEFORE and DURING installation, backyard attempts at bearing removal/installation, not having the proper equipment/tools, etc, etc, etc along with not following the manufacture's installation guidelines regardless of your automotive/mechanical knowledge and or experience can all lead to failure/issues on anything mechanical

To date I've NEVER had to "replace" a set of Green Bearings that I've installed in any vehicle

Are you running a stock housing?

Are you running stock axles?

Are you running stock brakes?

Are you running the first generation Green bearings with a crimped-on 5-hole retainer?

If you are going through a pair of Green bearings every 500 miles, you are probalby preloading the axles against the thrust block inside the differential.

Yea you must have an issue if your eating g bearings that fast, I have had a set on my car for the last 20 years (that gets driven) no problems.

Interesting thing about the Green Bearing debate is the different anecdotal experiences, some seem to fail early and some seem to last forever while the factory bearings seldom fail. Is there a message there?

Like I mentioned above, I've been installing the Greens for about 3 decades with ZERO issues, I gave up on the factory bearings many years ago after destroying a few Dana's and lots of 8 3/4 wheel bearing assys, usually from wheel hop, excessively wide tires, sticky tires, and lots of smoke shows

your commentary does not make sense as the load capacity of the Timken style bearing far surpasses a ball style bearing. Not wanting to start a ??? contest but again, from an engineering / design /load capacity standpoint, it does not make sense

I replace bad Timken tapered rollers all the time at work. It's a great design, but they still fail. A lot.

how does the green bearing failure compare to the ford 3.150dia. bearing ? or for that matter, the open race ball bearing found on late 50's oldsmobile rears ? the good doctor identified the bearings on my dana axles as the olds bearings [open to gear grease on the inside] a few years ago, and stated those were excellent bearings to have, but are somewhat hard to obtain now, if at all. these are 3.150od. and are on strange axles. i don't know if strange installed them, but they came with the narrowed dana with the "big ford" bearing ends i'm using in my 33 dodge humpback panel truck project.

If you are using the original non snap ring type of green bearing then you must remove the thrust buttons from the suregrip or use a spool. Failure to remove the buttons can cause the non snap ring green bearings to fail. Are the guys that are reporting failures doing this?

Edit - I see that the Dr diff explanation a few posts up hits on this problem as well.