I put a rebuilt RV2 on my Cuda and the shaft seal is leaking. If it is the ceramic surface that is leaking might it seat in and stop after some run time?

Since I went thru all the trouble of painting it nice if necessary I will replace the seal on it myself. Are all RV2 seals created equal or might there be a brand that is better than the rest?

Thanks, Kevin

No RV2 seal install experience but I would go ahead & replace it again as I dont think it will seal up on its own unfortunately

GM A6 compressor there is a replacement double lip rubber seal to replace original ceramic. Some say it is a good upgrade for leakers.

Recently acquired but have not yet installed in 71 Vette.

Couple questions: Are you saying I can put this seal in my Chrysler RV2 compressor? With ceramic, the seal to the shaft is fixed as opposed to rotating (friction?) with rubber lip. Does shaft design have to be considered?

I like the idea and think it could work if the rubber seal OD will press into the bearing carrier where the original seals stationary half goes and the ID will seal properly to the shaft.

Unless there is another option (lip seal or other), I will order a new seal for it. Thank you

Did not mean to imply that A6 lip seal would work in a Mopar compressor. Intention was to suggest that there may be a like product available for a RV2 unit.

Check with this firm to find if such a seal exists for an RV2 as a good place to start looking

http://www.phoenixmobileair.com/CompressorShaftSeals.aspx

This is what the factory RV-2 seal looks like. The rubber seal bottom center seals the shaft while the carbon seals seal to the outside.

I wonder if the new seals were lubed upon installation, dry carbon seals would probably fail early on.

I followed the installation procedure and positioned the shaft side down after putting oil in the compressor to lubricate the seal but is still leaks?

I read a post that says to soak new seals in oil before installing them so I plan to do that when I install it.

From my 73 FSM, newest one I had with RV2 info.

Crankshaft Bearing Housing and Gas Seal
Replacement (System Discharged)
The gas seal may be replaced with the compressor
installed in the vehicle or with the compressor removed
and placed on a workbench.
Special care should be taken when installing the
new seal in a compressor mounted on the engine, that
the carbon ring does not fall out of its housing. Adequate
lubrication of the rotating seal assembly prior
to installation on the compressor shaft, will prevent
the carbon ring from falling out of place.
If the compressor has been removed from the vehicle,
it should be placed on its back, to facilitate seal
replacement.
It is necessary to seal the suction opening (back
side) to prevent the loss of oil during replacement.
The crankshaft gas seal replacement package consists
of the crankshaft gas seal assembly and
crankshaft bearing housing seal seat plate.
Removal
(1) Loosen belt, remove clutch, coil and drive key.
(2) Remove crankshaft bearing housing seal bolts.
(3) Remove bearing housing from crankshaft,
using two screwdrivers inserted in the slots provided
to pry the housing from the case (Fig. 12).
(4) Remove bearing housing oil seal.
(5) Remove gas seal plate and '0' ring from the
bearing housing. This is part of the gas seal replacement
package and must be replaced when the gas seal
assembly is replaced.
(6) Clean the front bearing housing thoroughly with
mineral spirits.
Installation
(1) Immerse the new seal seat assembly in clean
refrigerant oil and install in the bearing housing with
the smooth (micro finish) side up. Use a sleeve with
the minimum inside diameter of 1-3/8 inch to avoid
damaging the micro finish sealing surface of the face
plate. Tap the sleeve lightly until the seal seat is fully
seated in the housing.
(2) Before installing the cartridge-type assembly,
inspect the assembly to make sure that the tangs of
the carbon seal scallops and the retainer tangs are indexed
in the slots of the respective mating parts
(Fig. 13).
(3) Immerse the seal assembly in clean refrigerant
oil, carbon ring up.
(4) Hold the seal assembly firmly at the outside
edge, at the same time preventing the ring from
coming out of position. Do not touch the polished sealing
face of the carbon seal.
(5) When the seal stop bottoms against the crankshaft
bearing, inspect the indexing alignment again.
Clutch key must be removed for seal installation.
(6) Oil the new bearing housing oil seal and install.
(Make certain that the seal is evenly stretched into
position and that the seal is not rolled over).
(7) Wipe the seal seat clean with a lint-free cloth,
and re-oil with refrigerant oil.
(8) Install the bearing housing, taking care to ensure
that the "nose" of the crankshaft does not touch
the seal seat in the bearing housing.
(9) Insert 5, 1/4 x 20 screws and pull bearing
housing squarely into position. This must be done 1/2
turn at a time per screw so that the ball bearing
outer race will not be jammed by the bearing housing.
Torque bolts 100 to 150 inch-pounds.
(10) Replace drive key in shaft.
(11) Assemble clutch to compressor and turn
crankshaft by turning clutch armature. No more than
10 inch-pounds of torque should be required to turn
crankshaft. If shaft is tight, remove clutch and loosen
the bearing housing screws until shaft loosens up.
Again, slowly tighten screws.
(12) Check the oil level which should meet the requirements of Oil Level—Compressor.
(13) Install clutch package on compressor, applying
20 ft-lbs. torque to tighten the clutch center
mounting bolt. Install and tighten belts. Evacuate
system and recharge.

Great, thanks.