What Brand and kits are you guys running kind of curious if it can help with tuning at the track I could be wrong but I'm putting my feelers out there "school me" Worth the money ?

A great directional tool to allow you to fine tune from idle, transition, cruise and wfo............Then you need to understand what it takes to fix the areas that need fixin............

Really cool I plan to be racing soon however I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to turning a car Both mechanically and suspension however dragracing is been a dream I've had since I've been a little kid and I'm closer now than ever Having two kids of my own with two different mothers have prevented me from my dream with that being said I'm a Southern California guy And I'm hoping to utilize Bakersfield ,Irwindale , California Speedway and Vegas I'm sure Bakersfield is very different than the la based tracks

Yes.

I have both wide band and narrow band "kits"

My GTX has a narrow band on it from K&N since the early 90's, its close enough that at the track last week the jetting was exactly off one step.

No more, no less.

That being said unless you are really hard up for bucks wide-band is a better choice as they are a bit more accurate in the critical max power 11-1 range. Wide band kits start at around $200, and narrow band $40-$45 for a gauge and a cheap O2 sensor and wiring as close as the nearest junkyard.

What both are excellent at is showing you the transitions between circuits so that you know what is going on at any given moment and can adjust as needed assuming you understand the inner workings of the particular carburetor that you are working with.

I hope this has been of some help.

Edit- With a 1000 CFM of AFB's here.

I know without a doubt I'm going to having my hands full hopefully a few morpar brothers at the track will be able to point me in the right direction / put under wing
i've actually decided to pull a mild 360 out of my 69 dart and put it in the race car just to actually start getting track time and I feel for the whole thing I've raced on the street but never at the track
I'm in the middle of building a 650+ horsepower motor and a lot of people are telling me I'm going I have my hands full

Definitely worth the money. Innovate LC1 user here. The LC-1 is no longer though, it's replaced by the LC-2 but it's pretty much the same thing. I use their analog A/F gauge too which uses a digital stepper motor and reads in 'real time'. Wiring it was a little tedious but it works great.

LC-2

The data logging feature is where it's at though, you can really break down a run with it. Plus, if you're willing to spend the extra coin for the add-on, multi sensor interface thing (LMA-3) you can see a bigger overall picture.

LMA-3

Just another tool really, there are other ways to accomplish what it does. I'm sure there are guys with enough experience that are probably a step ahead of it but again, it's good to have a run laid out graphically. If it can help a ham-fisted tuner like myself, I'm sure most anyone can benefit from it on some level.

This is what I bought but have not yet installed. My cousin swears by it - uses it in a blower motor car. Whats nice is its relatively cheap and has built-in trending accessible via USB.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZAQLF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use an Innovate unit. It's not going to help you a ton at the track as much as it will for street driving. At the track you jet up until mph starts to fall off then back it up a jet. Around town it's anyone's guess what the A/F is without a gauge. That's where these shine. My 950 HP was into the 11's AFR cruising which is horrible. I've got it tuned up now so it isn't so rich at cruise. But this is where you'll need to start understanding air bleeds, what emulsion holes and power valves do, etc.

By the way the mill will be a SB 416 with a 1050 Dom 2 circuit

Easy deal w/the dommy and I`m sure you'll get good at tuning IF that's your goal and the street is where you tune so the track will help ya shine and meet your goals...........Race only, different deal...........

I run a Summit one...I think its a re-branded AEM....I use a GoPro and I can see the electronic needle in the vids I take. A small jet change and I can see the difference.

I tune for the fuel I run. And if its a street strip car, its just an awesome tuning tool....Can't do with out it when you switch carbs....

Just bought me one of these... $20 rebate from Autometer, too.
Not sure if I'm going to mount it permanently in the dash or not.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3579/overview/

Another one with an Innovate with data logging.
Works great,one of the best tuning tools you can have.

Are you implying that 11.1 is the ideal A/F for max power?

As a starting point yes.

Go to the track and adjust from there as timeslips dictate.

I think my car would leave black trails at 11:1. In my case my car like 13:1, leaner is slows down and fatter it slows down.

Ray, I bought an Innovate LC2 on eBay, the cheapest prices for sure. I have one and will probably be adding another soon to do the other bank.

I do a lot of forced induction cars (25+ PSI), most of them live at 11:1 and make great power there, 13:1 might give you a complimentary set of ashtrays in a hurry under the same conditions.

I have a fine collection of them on a shelf in the garage that saw the lean side of life under boost. Gets expensive quick.

N/A is a bit more forgiving when running on the lean side.

We could also go in a long discussion about variations between gauges, calibration of the sensors, ground and wiring conditions, etc.

Better to pick a safe (but still decent) tuning target and then run the mixture slowly leaner till the car levels off than start out too lean and burn your work.

Reminds me of a scene from The World's Fastest Indian which was a reference to a documentary about Burt Monro.

"Offerings to the God of Speed"

It was a shelf displaying various melted pistons with that inscription on it.

Kevin

Pretty much.

Smoked a number of cast pistons figuring out how to make the little engines live and make power till the point that they started just failing from the power level they were being run at.

Swapped to forged at that juncture and kept on going till the next failure point was found..

Oh yes I think 13:1 would make some ashtrays with boost lol