well today I got the motor out of the coronet to fix a few leaks, but while it's out and apart I was going to change a few things. I thought the car would run a little better than it did so maybe there is a mis match in the parts somewhere, any help would be appreciated.
1965 coronet 3500lb
440 .030 over with 4340 crank and rods
flat tops with valve reliefs
Hughes .620lift 254/260@.050 solid cam
CNC ported stealth heads
Victor intake with 850dp
1 3/4 headers to 3" exhaust with race bullets dumped.
727 with 8" freelancer flashes to 5k
super stock springs with 275 pro drag radials.
the car went 7.35@94 in the 1/8 with 1.65 60'
the engine was pretty sound, crankinv compression is good, lash was good, only thing was it was sucking some oil from the valley into the intake ports

I plan to port the intake, switch to cometic head gaskets to get 10.8:1 compression, 2" headers. and my friend has a .630 260 roller setup I can switch to as well,

You need to focus on curing the oil leaking into the intake ports from the valley gasket, that can be dangerous(detonation) as well as kill a bunch of power I've seen over .2 ET increase by sealing the intake up so it dryed out the oil sucking into the ports. Lay the intake on the heads with no valley pan and use a feeler gauge at the top and bottom of all four corners to find out how much gap you have at each location(write it down at each location) then have a good machine shop cut the intake so it will set square on the heads so it will seal up properly

yea I can tell the intake needs a little milling, the bolt holes don't quite line up right, I'll get the measurements and take it to the shop friday, after that's fixed I'm going to a valley plate with Hughes engines intake gaskets with silicon around the ports

Dont use silicone around the ports. Gasoline will eat it away.

A 2" header eats up a lot of space. Try a 1 7/8 and and dump to 2" with a fenderwell design. That's .620 lift needs some breathing room.

the Hughes gaskets have some type of silicone/etc made into them around the ports..

and yea the 2 inch will take more space but thats what Doug's has for the car, and they are a bit cheaper than the ttis

also don't want to cut up the inner fenders

If you switch to the solid roller cam and lifters make sure you upgrade the valve springs, keepers, retainers and pushrods Make sure you have at least .060 from the bottoms of the keepers or retainters, which ever is closest to the valve seals at max lift Take the time to verify the max lift at the retainers as well as check the piston to valve clearances also
Degree the cam in, do NOT ALIGN the dots and ASS U ME that cam is timed correctly
Little things can mean a lot, if not checked properly

Those 1 3/4 headers hurt performance I am sure. A two inch would be my choice, and if your stall doesn't get up to the torque peak use an 18 inch collector.

The ET seems way off for that combo to me.
What rear gears?

A 7.35 is about an 11.50 in the 1/4.
I would have expected more out of it.

Without dyno numbers we don't really know what it "should" run, but looking at the parts list what comes to my mind is the headers are too small, and I question how good the converter is(the 60' time seems soft).
I would also say you'd want 4.10-4.30 gears in it........ or more for 1/8 mile racing.

it has 4.56 gears and a clutch pack posi, the converter is an 8" ATI treemaster, was freshened about 5yrs ago and now has around 500 street miles and a few 1/8 mile passes. I could get it checked out being I work at ATI now.....

it's getting Doug's 2" headers as well...I will order them friday

also the roller my buddy has has 4 passes on it, it's .670 lift 280 duration, has matching springs, retainers, and lifters to go with it

That cam sounds too big to me.

Your first post said it was a "freelancer" converter........ Had never heard of that before.
If it's an ati, it should be good....... But if you work there, it might be worth a look see inside just to be sure.

There is a big dfference betwen a 260 @ .050 roller cam and a 280 @.050, especailly if the bigger cam is a drag race only cam for a power adder motor
Why did your buddy take it out?
Make sure and set each valve spring up at the installed hieght and check for how much pressure differences there are, if they vary more than twenty lbs on the seats and more than fifty lbs opened and you can't shim them to get them within less than 20 and fifty with at least .060 clearace from coil bind replace them
I like to have within 5 lbs on the seats and 20 lbs opened and I shoot for between .080 and .060 from coil bind on each spring You can swap the inners springs and dampener to get those results

the freelancer was an autocorrect mistake, it was supposed to say treemaster lol...

and he had 4 dyno pulls on the cam and switched to Indy heads and a 750 roller, I'll go to his place this week and check out the spring pressures and all.

I'll ask what power that setup made but I know he ran it to 7000 with that cam

It's too big for your combo(3500lbs, 10.8cr, 5000 stall).

If you run it, you'll be leaving ET on the table.