We are assembling my 5.7L Hemi in two weeks and I am looking for opinions on what type of assembly lubricant to use as it goes together. It is very likely the engine won't fire until late Spring, so I would like to protect it as best I can.

I have Lucas assembly lube which has the consistency of molasses, I feel this would be best used on the roller lifters, and rings. I am wondering if I should apply some form of grease to the main/rod bearings and camshaft in an attempt to have it stick longer?

Thoughts?

I am currently sitting on a 440 shortblock that was assembled a few months ago. I used a paint brush to paint on ATF on everything, and then wrapped it tightly in a garbage bag on the engine strand. I have opened it up and checked it a few times and it is fine.

I used ATF because I have seen engine builders use ATF to wipe parts down during the engine assembly process. I figured it would keep things from rusting - and when i wipe it all off, things will be clean before i button it up.

If you can store it in a dry place, I would think normal assembly procedure and lubes should be fine. I don't think cylinder bores like slippery assembly lube... it slows ring break in when started. Engine oil there.

Otherwise normal assembly lube and keep it dry with minimal temp changes.

I wouldn't worry too much about the mains and rods, since I'm sure you used some kind of lubricant when you built the short block. Just prime the engine with a drill before you turn the crank and the bearings should have plenty of oil

Dumb question, but can you even prime a new gen Hemi with a drill ?

Use the same oil that you will break the motor in on the rings and bearings, prime well before starting

Not a dumb question... I have no idea! Missed the "5.7" part. I've been playing mostly with B/RB engines for a long time.

eng oil only on the rings/cyl walls. you need friction there for proper breakin. obviously you dont want em dry but nothing slicker than eng oil. thick paste of some sort reasonably lightly on bearings & dont forget the sides of the thrust bearing halves and on pushrod tips & valve stem tips & good squirt of oil on valve stems. oil on lifter sides. cam lube on lifter bottoms/lobes. anything that moves. definitely preoil

Not sure if assembly lube on roller lifters is necessary? Break in lube on the bearings is a good idea.

I have a bottle of GM EOS and the label on the back says to pour it all over pretty much every moving part prior to assembly - cylinder walls, piston rings, oil pump cavity, soak the timing chain, etc.

To get the oil circulating I guess you could briefly spin the engine over with the starter and the spark plugs out so there is no load on it.

I have rebuilt several "modern" engines that you cant prime through the distributor hole.
I built a priming tool out of clear 1 1/2 inch pool filter hose about 20" long with Pvc Caps on each end. On one end I threaded in a valve and air chuck on the other I threaded in an adapter that connected to a 1/4 clear line. I attached the line to another adapter that threaded into the oil pressure sending unit. Fill it with oil, attach air line keep the pressure low and open the valve slow and you will send oil through the motor, repeat 2-3 times and you are good to go.
BE CAREFUL IF YOU USEE FULL COMPRESSOR PRESSURE, or don't open slowly IT WILL BLOW UP IN YOU FACE.
I dont have pice but can take some and email them.
Scott

No, oil pump is crank driven. There are some alternative ways to force feed it, however.

I recently rebuilt a Mitsubishi 3.5L engine and used Lubriplate on all of the bearing surfaces. I used 30W oil on the cylinder bores and piston rings. My engine sat on a stand for about 3-4 months during the slow weekend only rebuild.

I also built a pressure lube for it as the oil pump is concentric with the crankshaft and cannot be spun to prime the engine.

I've used that tube of lubriplate. knead/squeeze the tube in your fingers to mix the white grease with the brown goo on the inside

Agreed....