i know i'm over thinking this but - what is the procedure? can you just take your springs to a spring shop and ask to have 2 more inches of lift? it would seem they would need the car but is it a trial and error type of deal? bend them a little, trial fit, bend a little more and so on. can you just tell them your needs and they can make you an extra leaf to do that?

i'm working up to a winter rear end rebuild and would like to ditch the air shocks.

thanks!

Good idea to ditch the air shocks.

As far as process, suggest you talk to your spring guy. A really good one should be able to get close on the first try. That said, 2" with a re-arch is a lot of cold bending. I'm not confident it would hold.

Adding a leaf can help also if you want a higher spring rate... which you may want to compensate for removing the air shocks. Adding one full leaf cost me $100 at my local shop and raised it up about 1" as predicted by my spring guy with no re-arching. I added the leaf as I needed more rate and the MP XHD springs had sagged quite a bit.

Our spring shop has the specs for OEs.They did the kids 62 300s and added one inch arch and an extra leaf.His car sat great and when he sold the car they were on for at least 14 years.Still never weakened.We use Emch spring here.They even had a new set for my 57 Chrysler when I bought it.Rocky

I myself using my press have re-arched two cars with about a 2" rise. One car about 5 years, one 3. I didn't think they would completely hold either, but they have.

But, these are not daily drivers, 62 and 63 Plymouths. I don't know if that would make a lot of difference or not. But I will do it again.

not trying to be ignorant here but is there a benefit to the shocks with springs or are they as bad as air shocks when it comes to planting?

ask your shop if they just need the main arch(s). if so clamp them several inches away from the center bolt on each side of it & I would crack that nut with a nut cracker then remove the nut/bolt & undo the clamps evenly. that is a special bolt & the threads tend to get boogered up from road debris & if the nut is tight & you crack the bolt with using just a wrench then you'll have to search for a new one

Napa usually has tons of center bolts in stock

The shock upper and lower bolts were designed to carry the load of just the shocks only, not the weight of the car's rear as would be the case for shocks with springs or air shocks.

Using air shocks or shocks with springs risks bending or shearing the attachment bolts which are cantilevered and supported on only one end.

I added one leaf to each side about 1976 due to severe wheel hop on acceleration. This raised the rear body about 1.5 inches. Still good today with zero sag after 40 years.

Noted, thank you!

Any spring shop that dosent have the center bolts run away from very very fast.No need to seperate the springs.just bring them to the shop.Check the bushings also.Bringing the complete spring is best that way they can make sure none are broke or bad.Rocky

this seems to be the best direction. 1 1/2 would be plenty. wheel hop is not my issue. i just can't get a grip. i'm running MT 29x15x15 so that shouldn't be an issue. i'm sure it's because of the air shocks

thanks guys!

Back in the day I bought a 69 RR that had used air shocks, they had torn the top cross member completely from the frame. Welded it back the best I could then later after getting the good parts off, sold it. Bought the car cheep $250
Air shocks are a no-no

For the best results the car should be at the shop and adjusted until it sits where you want it.

Just understand adding a leaf will increase the spring rate. Not always a bad thing since most cars from the 60's are too soft to begin with. The problem I find is stock to 1 added is too big of a jump in spring rate.

I have had a couple of sets done back in the day, they are really only bending the main leaf.
He disassembled the spring pack, heated it, bent it to a measurement from his pocket note pad, let it cool and reassembled.
The shop had a large horizontal table with a pusher arm in the middle and the ends were pushed against stops.
Perfect results.

Mine were done 20+ years ago. No sag.

You don't want to heat springs up. Get a spring red hot and it will no longer be a spring.

A spring shop might heat the end up to reshape the eye, but not often.

well i found a shop in my area and they recommended re-arching and an extra leaf. $125 each side.

next question would be (and i have searched it)i won't be able to use a standard B-body shock, right?

i have read that a C-body shock is the way to go, true?
just any 1969 C-body? i wouldn't think the actual shock length would be any different

$125 each side to re-arch? New stock spec springs are only about $150 a side.

I would suggest that you get the re-arched springs on and see how the shocks look before you decide. If they are too short, you can also use shock extenders and your current shocks.

Take them to Reading Spring in Reading PA. Had mine rearched and added another leaf, still retains the same rake after 15 years.

I agree $125 is way too much. you might see what they want just to rearch the (2) main leaf(s) & you would break em down/reassemble. just need 2 good sized C clamps