Well if you missed it...aparrently I found the limit of 1/2 axle studs on my car.

I attribute it to the hard launches off the trans brake, heavy car (3700lbs+), the unforgiving drag radials (no wrinkling like a slick), and the fact I was running a thin 11/32" spacer compromised the surface contact area.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2121136

Anyway..Had to figure out a way to keep my sleeper look and upgrade to 5/8" studs.

I'm so lucky to have a lot of smart and talented friends around me. My buddy Paul devised these, and made them up.

Absolute works of art...and most impressive these were made by hand on a mill with a rotory table...no CNC!

Ready to get them on and terrorize the roadkill nights event coming up this Friday.

...thanks to Dad (dvw) too for having the 5/8" wheel stud kit "in stock" at the DVW Emporium of Speed (the garage attic...lol)

Man, that's a lot of mods. That wheel has to maintain trueness under .010" runout, up and down, in and out. I hope it works out for you.

That's slick

Cool.. did you get them balanced yet and
I assume your still running your hub caps
and I assume you made them thick enough to
eliminate the spacer

Very interesting. I wonder if I would have it post heat treated? With that much welding, it would relieve itself, and move around. Cyro would be fine? The one thing I would keep an eye out for, after put in use, your center adapter looks to to be very robust/rigid, that's good. however the outer circumference weld, is basically the weld that will absorb most of the forces or the actual road induced forces when driving. That abrupt transition from a very stiff part, thru a weld, to a rather flimsy part, that is constantly reversed flexed, would be something I'd keep my eye on, regularly check, often and closely. Keep in mind also, heavy paint and/or powder coat will hide any initial warning signs of potential HAZ cracking.

Your friend definitely deserves a nice dinner for his efforts.

PS, your stud problem is solved until you add another turbo.

Was thinking the exact thing but those guys got this..........

the tricks you've got in that car never cease to impress me...I'll try to swing by Friday and check it out in person...

That's a great idea,I need that for Buster Brown

I used to really like that car (and your Dad's, BTW)...now I love the thing.
There's nothing cooler than the effort expended to look like no effort was made at all. You sly rascal, haha.

When I'd be hanging out in the garage with my old man as a kid, he always told me that the simpler something looked, the more thought went into getting it that way.

and simple looking things are sometimes very difficult and time consuming to pull off and capture the original intent.

Thanks guys. The tires/wheels are already balanced. Just needed to ream the lug holes slightly. They were only set up with .003", but they won't QUITE go on. Just need a quick touch, and then they'll be good.

Everything was indicated before/after welding. There was actually some additional tooling made to make this all happen I didn't grab pics of.

Pretty slick! Paul is an awesome machinist and a great guy. Good luck at Roadkill!

Randy

Ultimate street sleeper. Way to go!

Right on!

All good...got them on last night and got a little "testing in mexico" done before Fridays big roadkill race.

If you've done everything else correct, and I think you have. I would eliminate the spacers in the last pic. Get the clamp lug nut as close to the base as can be for the most strength.

Cut the extended lug bolt off shorter to look more like stock. I wouldnt add a spacer and then the lug nut. But otherwise , great job if it all measured true.

However, he loses the future option of moving the wheel/tire assembly for tire fender clearance issues. Your idea is sound, caught my eye also, but maybe a little premature at this point.

All 5/8" stud "kits" come with these spacers. (Moroso, Mark Williams, etc...) The studs actually have a .687" shoulder on them (not threaded), which registers in the wheel hole openings. The shoulder sticks out through the wheel on purpose, and then the spacers are used to ensure the nuts are in the threaded area of the stud.

This car runs hub caps, so this stuff is all hidden.

All 5/8 studs, as mentioned, are shouldered so the entire thickness of wheel rides on shoulder. There are some options for studs with less shoulder for different wheel thickness, but pictured above is the "common" length that most kits come with. I too like as little shoulder as required and a thinner spacer, as it is lighter and makes the wheel easier to get off the car if the confines are tight..........BUT.......the longer spacer pictured hurts nothing and sacrifices no strength and as he says, it's under the hubcap anyway, so doesn't matter