That's good info.

I lost right at two tenths, that's .200 in the 1/8 with my new fiberglass body. But no mph increase.

Usually the MPH will stay neutral or just go a tad up. Some times it is the bulk mass that is still there whether it is light or heavy. The car sees less effort to get moving but may struggle with aero mass upstairs.

I need to add 75 pounds. That's about what another turbo weights 😄

This is the opposite of what I plan on doing. This Dakota hood was made into a cowl hood, I'll remove what bracing I can and leave the skin but as you can see there's a lot of weight I can remove.
I have a spare hood I'll be cutting up just in case it turns into junk.

At least that Dakota hood is aero. Lots of webbing to remove. It could be rather easy to remove and put on if it were a pin on. The shorter the skin stretch, the better.

It'll be a pin on hood, hinges and springs are massive.

Shee, even name plates and call out emblems are massive these days like if everyone is blind and they have to identify the car make from a mile away. Thank god they are made out of plastic.

One thing I like about the older Dodge trucks, it's not "Death by Grill".

Curious, Where is the bulk of a trucks weight?
Is it the cabin area, front engine compartment or the chassis/rear bed?

All the above, there isn't one area you focus on, you have to hit everything. But, last time I was on the scales I was 600 lbs heavy over the nose.

Anyone use Lexan windows from Pro Glass? I have read about them recently, they make formed windows that install like stock with gaskets etc. They are not real expensive for what they are.

I looked into it, the windshield on my Duster is starting to delaminate a little around the edges, might be a good opportunity to shave some weight off the front while looking stock.

Pro Glass

Pro-glass has nice formed windows and I installed one of them in the Duster for Glasses. He had some water leakage around the cowl area but I believe it was a rusted hole or so or the fact that I did not seal the Pro-glass entirely with silicone to create the problem. Other than that, it saved a good amount of pounds and looked stock. He even used his wipers on it for some time.
I recommend not using wipers since most of these types of cars are the worlds best weather stations. If it's gonna rain, keep it in the garage, if it's gonna be wonderful out side, the car will be prowling the streets. Visual maintenance: Polish it every so often with good soft cloth rags and plastic polish and the glass will look great.

Lay out some fine mesh or screen give it a lite primer dusting too see the spots and start Swiss Cheezing the braces.

Not to sound offish as an infomercial for the man, But Kalusa the dipper is the cat with a vat and he really knows his stuff.
My friend just dropped off some bracketry for his sneaky pete 68' Hemi at Kalusa's place in Detroit and picked up some others pieces. Lets just say that there wasn't any effort to pick them up from the floor since they were very light to say the least. Even the Chrysler star and part numbers are left to bare witness to their originality.
I've so far ran out of large pieces in need of a diet, so I am looking deeper at the fine print within the car. Though, I do have a very close card to my chest that has a lot of history.

Here's what some Witching hour spare time in the cellar here in Detroit can start to produce.
The main cavity is now rough cut and I will go in with my dentist tools and carve out the latch catch teeth. This aluminum is super hard. More later.

you mentioned what grade aluminum you were using for this before, but i forgot. could you refresh my memory ?was it 7075 ? that stuff has [if i remember right] around an 83k tensile strength and is used in the aircraft industry.

Yes X
It is 7075-T aluminum.
Not as light as pure aluminum or other hardened grades of the alloy of course, but a work horse in wear and tear situations. Still lighter than cast steel which in this case is what these door strikers are made from.

The dremel tool at 35,000 rpm's is doing a fair job of cutting through with a few rest stops in between. Already half the weight. When I get back to New York, I'll weigh it on the ounce scale and get a true number.

Not sure if I posted this before, but here's a close up and personal of the glovebox just prior to primer.

Here's a back side of the steering wheel and its mounting chuck utilizing a universal aftermarket wheel kit The wheel is also in half primer before it had a glossy black epoxy sprayed on to mimic an original.

The stage side of things.
I've yet to finish the all aluminum horn ring assembly that will sit on top of the wheels cross bridge and basically represent an entire stock unit.