Without ever having seen car, nor knowing anything about it, a starting pressure is just a guess. Because nose weight, power, shocks, ladder bar angle, SLR and a dozen other thing change how the car "hits" the tire. So pick a pressure and go from there. Video and someone looking at the tire tracks who knows what they are looking at, will be the biggest benefit. You need to KNOW at what pressure the tire is completely flattened out on launch. Ever going above that pressure only over inflates the tire and does nothing. You learn that by looking at the tire tracks

I have the option of going to the lower hole on my ladder bars, which puts it slightly below the neutral line. The front of the ladder bar ends up about 5 3/4 inch off the ground, 30 inch bars. I figure since I am trying to take away hit, it might be a good move and require less shock to get where I want to go?

https://www.facebook.com/greg.anderson.332345/videos/vb.1142132673/1761900684286/?type=2
An old video, but the same basic setup and settings I have run for some time.

Link isn't working for me...?

Works for me I would start making adjustments to the car. It is hitting the tire pretty hard in that video.

Al, I plan on the following: full stiff on the rear shock extension, was 80 percent there already. Moved the ladderbars down to the lowest hole, was up in the second to bottom, with level bars. Rear tires down to 7 psi to start from 9.7 psi, will see how the graph looks to judge whether I need to go lower. Front end has 2 1/2 inch travel now, full loose on shock extension. Will start with them tighter, somewhere close to the middle.
Wheeliebars will be lowered to keep the front down to under a six inch wheelstand, which is kind of a shot in the dark on how far down to go. Now all I need to do is figure out what the results on the next runs mean BIR test day on July 29, hope the weather cooperates

Lots of changes, I hope to see some better 60 fts. This is what changed;
Converter, had another one on the shelf, was loosened up, this will be the first try after the stall adjustment.
Front shocks three sweeps tight, max is 6 1/4. They were full loose. Same 2 1/2 inch of travel.
Ladderbars one hole down, to bottom hole. They are 32 inch bars, I said 30 inch earlier, was wrong.
Rear shocks full tight on extension, was about 80 percent of full tight.
Wheelie bars dropped to about 7 inch from the wheel centerline. I want to work with them last. I assume I should work with shocks and tire pressure first.
Will try 6.5 psi in slicks, was running 9 3/4 psi on a 15 x 33 2078 Goodyear semistiff sidewall tire, no tubes.
Test day tomorrow at BIR.
Rear springs loosened three turns to give me all the travel available. I gained 3/8 inch and ended up with 2 3/4 inch of available travel at the shock, 2 3/8 travel available at the axle. Looks Like I need some softer rear springs. These take up the whole amount of adjustment at rest with only 2 3/4 extension left of 5 inch total.

greg, i'm not sure i understand the comment you made about loosening the rear springs ? [i am easy to confuse at times] does that mean your spring seat is just touching the spring instead of an inch or so of preload ? or just moving the preload enough so the shock length is in the middle of extension/rebound ?

Raising or lowering the spring adjuster didn't change the amount the spring is compressed, it just lowers the car a bit, and add to the amount they can extend on launch. With the shock travel almost dead in the middle at rest, I was looking to gain all I could so the shocks don't get fully extended at the hit.

ok, i got it now. i thought that was what you were after, but it didn't sink in. thanks for clarifying !

Your shocks were old correct? May as well tighten the fronts to full tight, because I am betting they are not going to be able to control the front. Very few will when new with standard valving

Myself I would go with just a bit lighter spring(I
assume from what you said you have the spring adjusters
at the bottom) and your correct.. move the shock mount to
change the height... being a ladder bar try lowering the
shaft itself a bit for more travel... but you need good
shocks for any ladder bar.... from the numbers you said your
close to being in the middle of the travel... the lighter springs
should help lower the shaft some

Well, I got it down the track.
First pass, 1.299 with the adjustments I put in to start. I will try and add a video. The different converter is TIGHTER by 200 rpm, shift drops 1450 rpm to 6,000 from 7450. The ET was5.713 in the 1/8th at 121.22, 8.978 1/4, 149.41 mph. DA is about 2200.
The graph shows the rpm at launch only goes up to 5600 right after launch, then there is a big dip in the acceleration just like before.
I will put the front shocks at full stiff and lower the wheelie bars some more and see what happens.
The driveshaft rpm sensor quit, so no driveshaft rpm

2nd pass, air DA is up some, but the 60 ft improved .02 to 1.279. ET at the 1/8th 5.691 at 121.15 mph, 8.963 at 149.08 mph
I went down to 6 psi in the slicks from 6.5, full tight on the front shocks from half tight, and lowered the ladder bars a couple of inches. The car left with the fronts on the ground, never any daylight under them. The graphs smoothed out, not pulling quite as hard but the dips and valleys in the acceleration graph are half what they were.
The rear of the car bounced up and down pretty bad on the hit.
So I hope Santa Claus thinks I was good, cause I need at least new shocks and springs for the back, and that new converter is tight by 600 to 800 rpm . The converter I had been running in the past is in the first graph I posted, about 5800 stall.

Greg, Did it spin the tires at all on the pass it did not lift the tires?? From your best pass in your sig, the mph was down about 3, was the air worse??

I ran a 8.75 at 153.5 mph and a 1.258 sixty foot last weekend, 1/8 mile was 5.627 at 123.58 mph. The DA was 3,800 feet. This mph is down, but so was the 60 foot from previous passes, so I am wondering how much of it was the air...

I am betting it had some initial wheel speed, since the graph shows a dip in acceleration just like the other graphs. The driveshaft rpm channel quit working just before I left for the track. I haven't looked into why yet. sure is a bummer not being able to see that, but acceleration combined with engine rpm tell a lot.

Greg will you post the graph from your last time out for us.

A lot of changes, and not just the chassis........at this point I would say the jury is still out on the cam swap.

I agree. I had to freshen the motor this spring when the new cam went in. The hone job wasn't perfect when I got the block back for reassembly. There were signs of "alky rust" in a few spots in the cylinders. Very shallow, but if my fingernail can feel them, I assume the rings might not seal perfectly. My guess is that was done that way because none of them were over half way up the ring travel area, and it saved me from needing new pistons? I had talked about that with my machinist.
With both converters I have being 5800 stall or less, I think that is hurting performance. The cam lobes and duration were selected based on my thinking the flash stall was much higher.
I am working on getting a graph up.
If anyone can tell me how to save the screen for a graph in a file that can be posted, I sure could use the help. There are less options when a graph screen is up and I can't figure out how to save it as a photo or file I can post.
The 60 ft on this scan was 1.279, 1/4 ET was 8.990
The graph is engine rpm and acceleration.
the G meter scale is 2000 rpm = 0 Gs, 4000 rpm 1G , 6000 = 2Gs

Resurrecting a post from 2016 for reference