Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2095992
06/22/16 01:04 AM
06/22/16 01:04 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Went with specialty power windows. Speedway #911-22303. My doors are fiberglass and taper down towards the bottom to about 1" ID. Still got it in, but major pain.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2096180
06/22/16 12:27 PM
06/22/16 12:27 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Motors set at the bottom of the doors. The instructions with the kit make the install pretty easy. They are the thinnest ones I could find and lots of room for adjustment, so they will accommodate almost any situation. In my case, I still had to modify / fab up mounts for the lift arms - per the pic. That black tape you see at the bottom of the pic actually covers a hole I had to make in the inner skin for the motor to slightly protrude through. As I said it was a major space constraint problem with my doors as they tapered at the bottoms.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: Crizila]
#2096185
06/22/16 12:36 PM
06/22/16 12:36 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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With door panels installed. I also had to stuff in power door locks and suicide door safety locks.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2096466
06/22/16 10:52 PM
06/22/16 10:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502
Shelby, Ohio
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i got it figured out. 1990 Dodge Caravan power regulators. a little snug but they went right in and work great. the upright piece had a slight curve in it but they bent straight without a problem. the good part is that I had these laying around the shop. I had over 50 different power regulator assemblies from different jobs that I had saved over the last 10 years. I recently thru them all away but saved these.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 06/22/16 10:54 PM.
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2096518
06/23/16 12:00 AM
06/23/16 12:00 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,528 Southeast PA
5wndwcpe
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,528
Southeast PA
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Which were the other ones that you did not use ?
I have a '33 Coupe and bought a Specialty Power Window kit and also ended up with a Nu Relics kit. I have not tried to install either one yet, so if you could tell me if it was either of those (or both) I'd appreciate it.
1968 GTX hardtop 1968 Sport Satellite Convertible 383/4spd 1933 Plymouth coupe 2002 Ram 2500 oil burner 4x4 2015 Grand Cherokee 2013 Challenger 1957 Chrysler Saratoga
Man...I need a bigger freakin' garage.
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2096764
06/23/16 02:12 PM
06/23/16 02:12 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633
north of coder
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i have a couple of setups i may use in my humpback doors. both are flextrack deals. one is from the rear doors of an 84 [K car newyorker], and the other is a pair of factory replacements for a jeep liberty [i think]. i also have several other items on the shelf, but i'm not sure what they are for. my doors are like the rest of this thing..... RUSTY ! i have to replace approximately 5-6" of the bottom sheetmetal all the way around. i have a couple of different ideas what i may do, but i'm not even close to that stage. the reason i decided on flextrack units is, number one, my original crank setups were so far gone there was nothing at all to work with, and number two, i think that will give me more room at the bottom of the door for the mechanisms. oh, and the important thing is, i have zero $$ in the K car setup that only has 20k something miles, and $10 in the pair of jeep units ! since the thing is chopped, i only have about an 11 1/2" piece of glass to work with. my camera is having issues now downloading pics, so i can't take a couple to show you guys what my ideas are. hopefully, i can have that resolved in the next couple of days.
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: moparx]
#2097279
06/24/16 11:46 AM
06/24/16 11:46 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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i have a couple of setups i may use in my humpback doors. both are flextrack deals. one is from the rear doors of an 84 [K car newyorker], and the other is a pair of factory replacements for a jeep liberty [i think]. i also have several other items on the shelf, but i'm not sure what they are for. my doors are like the rest of this thing..... RUSTY ! i have to replace approximately 5-6" of the bottom sheetmetal all the way around. i have a couple of different ideas what i may do, but i'm not even close to that stage. the reason i decided on flextrack units is, number one, my original crank setups were so far gone there was nothing at all to work with, and number two, i think that will give me more room at the bottom of the door for the mechanisms. oh, and the important thing is, i have zero $$ in the K car setup that only has 20k something miles, and $10 in the pair of jeep units ! since the thing is chopped, i only have about an 11 1/2" piece of glass to work with. my camera is having issues now downloading pics, so i can't take a couple to show you guys what my ideas are. hopefully, i can have that resolved in the next couple of days. Agree with your plan. Sometimes it is not worth trying to make the old stuff ( or parts of the old stuff) work. Fix the rust and start from scratch with the power window mechanisms. If you get the glass and the channels they run in installed, you are half way home. The nice thing about buying a kit is that they have infinite adjustability if you use their bottom edge glass holders. Switches, wiring, in, out, up stop, down stop all fully adjustable.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: Crizila]
#2097419
06/24/16 03:29 PM
06/24/16 03:29 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633
north of coder
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i absolutely agree with your statement about using a kit with the adjustability, switches, etc. that would be the correct decision for most builds. however, with my twisted vision of how my humpback is to be, the switches, door latch mechanisms, locks, and suicide door safety locks, will be an entirely different setup to be sure. i have already sketched out several components plus their related wiring and relay systems. all this will reside just forward of the seats with the "push button conversion" box at arms reach, ala b&m mid-60's shifter box setup. as you stated, the glass channels and runs will be done first using masonite or plexiglass for the glass pattern, then go with the lift mechanisms that will fit the best. wiring the switches and relays will be a piece of cake.
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: moparx]
#2097525
06/24/16 06:50 PM
06/24/16 06:50 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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i absolutely agree with your statement about using a kit with the adjustability, switches, etc. that would be the correct decision for most builds. however, with my twisted vision of how my humpback is to be, the switches, door latch mechanisms, locks, and suicide door safety locks, will be an entirely different setup to be sure. i have already sketched out several components plus their related wiring and relay systems. all this will reside just forward of the seats with the "push button conversion" box at arms reach, ala b&m mid-60's shifter box setup. as you stated, the glass channels and runs will be done first using masonite or plexiglass for the glass pattern, then go with the lift mechanisms that will fit the best. wiring the switches and relays will be a piece of cake. Other than the fact that they reside in the doors door locks and suicide safety door locks are totally separate issues with separate wiring circuits from the power window system. FYI I went with manual suicide locks (1/4 turn knob ) and wired led red lights on each corner of my dash to alert the passenger if not in use.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: moparx]
#2097817
06/25/16 12:07 PM
06/25/16 12:07 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Sounds like you have good plan. Innovative ideas . My car has no outside door handles, so a little different than yours - no locks, but solenoid operated latch openers. Went with a flexible cable through my door jams.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2098400
06/26/16 10:55 AM
06/26/16 10:55 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,644 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,644
Freeport IL USA
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Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.
I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: poorboy]
#2098542
06/26/16 03:15 PM
06/26/16 03:15 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.
I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene and when those contact surfaces start to degrade, they create heat through resistance - before they finally go open or trip the fused circuit.
Fastest 300
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Re: Power windows in a 33 ply.
[Re: Crizila]
#2098565
06/26/16 03:45 PM
06/26/16 03:45 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,633
north of coder
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Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.
I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene and when those contact surfaces start to degrade, they create heat through resistance - before they finally go open or trip the fused circuit. ah, YES SIR ! and i have fixed my share of melty wires over the years. i know better, and i don't know why i even thought about that route. i guess my "oldtimers" disease need reminding by you guys every so often. thanks for the "pants kicking" i deserved for even thinking about those contacters !
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