AGREED...........But I give him and Dragula kudos for tryin to figure em out for sure..........

Atomization, vaporization and distribution will always be best with 4 holes and a booster. If you stumble on an induction combo where distribution falls in a reasonable spread they will run OK, nitrous combos are also not so sensitive as the nitrous tends to even things out. And the nature of a tube discharge requires little more than a kill bleed, no emulsion, so trying to tune it with tons of emulsion makes it a crap shoot. Roll the dice, take a number and put in it, and hope it works...

Mark,I respect your opinion on the style carb.ANY larger carb that I purchased would have served the cause.I had a pair of 750DP's that were way too small.When I was shopping for carbs and I saw the SV1, http://www.prosystemsracing.com/svseries.html,it became SV1 decision.I have read of many guys that switched from SV1;s to dominators ,but I think they just didn't put the time into learning and tuning. I will by hook or by crook!!
I want to get a grip on the tune BEFORE I change pullies and turn the boost up.I am also curious,,,,once the carbs are dialed in,when I increase the airflow through the carbs by spinning the blower more,,,,,will it just feed more or will I have to fatten it up.That question applies to traditional Dominators as well as the Sv1

I would like to add,,,,,I am using STOCK iron heads with a good valve job and parts.Car weights 3850 and has gone a best of a tick under 145 MPH,
Running no hood with the aerodynamics of a brick,I am very happy with the performance of my street cruzer.I reached my goal last year and have reset my goals for this season.Who knows,maybe next winter I will install these old dart twin plug heads and step it up some more. In the present,I am very happy with the performance to date and know I might pick up a 1/2 second this season

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QWqMVgNvzw

I want to get a grip on the tune BEFORE I change pullies and turn the boost up.I am also curious,,,,once the carbs are dialed in,when I increase the airflow through the carbs by spinning the blower more,,,,,will it just feed more or will I have to fatten it up.That question applies to traditional Dominators as well as the Sv1 [/quote]

It should pull more fuel with the greater air
flow... if the fuel is there to begin with

That's what I hope. It also sounds like I can change the bleeds for the wheather & DA conditions.
I think I'm getting a handle on this. I also need to take another 2* of timing out after going out with the same tune on the 1st pass as last season. I want to get out early to taste the same cool air as we ended with last season!!

Put some .014 main air bleeds in it, see what your fuel curve does... Probably need to take out some jet as well...

If you've ever seen a C&S carb, it comes with a kill bleed and a very small MAB. Tube discharge does not need air correction for the curve that you see with a booster. While I'm not a fan of those carbs, C&S is at least smart enough to realize the emulsion need or lack thereof with a tube discharge.

Mark, I have high speed & idle air bleeds.Not even sure if I have a main air bleed

Sorry, missed the response. mains are the HS air bleeds. My post above was serious, with the large single butterflies getting sufficient signal is a serious issue, for a NA engine. With the blower the use for emulsion to stimulate fuel flow at low speeds will probably not be needed. If it were me I would try a small HS bleed, and if the emulsion is threaded plug all but the kill bleed. If it's not threaded and plug them. Then see how the engine responds.

No bleeds in emulsion dept. It spikes lean and mimicks the boost.Have .035 now. will try .028's and see what the logger says,,,,,,,,

Your emulsion is shown on the blocks below. You can have 2 to 5 positions, and any can be plugged, any with restrictions either pressed in, threaded, or drilled in.


[img]http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/images/managed/3circuit.jpg?v=2[/img]

And this confuses me

a/f spikes up & down,not smoooooooth????????????

Exhaust leak allowing fresh air to be sucked into the headers perhaps?

That is the case for the one side,that's why I didn't include it on the graph.I am starting to question backpressure and how to tell when it becomes an issue.A friend wants to remove an o/2 sensor and put a pressure gauge on it and make a test pass Also,what intake manifold air temp will cause no add'l gain???????

It seems to me that one of the blower motors I engine dyno tested made 50 HP less at 190 F MAT(manifold air inlet temps below the blower) compared to 130F MAT, maybe not so much, maybe more Hot air expands a bunch I do remember switching pulleys and going from CA pump swill to 112 octane ras gas and going from 12% under dirve which made 7.0 lbs of boost at 7300 RPM made 924 HP, reversing the pulleys ended up making it have 13% O.D. and 12 lbs of boost at 6500 RPM with a lot hotter MAIT which cause detonation at 6500 RPM making 1027 HP with 25 degrees total timing. The pull on pump gas with less O.D. and boost pressure liked 33 degrees total timing, we treid from 27 to 36 degrees in two degree increments on the pump swill Looking back at those test I should have started the race gas pulls with 20 degrees total timiing, not 25 We treid 28 and it got worse in a big hurry The owner was way happy and it was late in the afternoon so we stopped while the motor still ran On a blower motor I would bet that back pressure is a big No No
One of my old N/A bracket cars picked .9 ET and 9 MPH going from a 2.5 inch exhaust system with the old Corvair turbo type mufflers with a short side exhaust to open headers with no other changes My pump gas Duster with a three inch system picked up .02 ET and .2MPH in the eight mile by removing the exhaust system from the headers flanges back That gain was probally from the weight loss and not back pressure
I know a west coast blown alcholol racer that sees 400+F MAIT at 50 lbs of boost on his deal

Me thinks to try to install some dumpers,open it up and see how she like to BREATH. And you can see the intake air is at 205,,,,,,,,,

Ya when you change overdrive you'll need to re-do your fuel curve, most likely fatten up, I did at least,couple pics when I ran dual 1150's - gas first, then e85(quick fuel kits, love'em)

Oh ya, when I bolt my exhaust on, engine temps go up 20° , plugs foul, stumbles ect.. I know tuned for open exhaust, I have the 3" flow master system under my B-body, hooker comp's.. 1-7/8" into 3"... Had super comps on it (got run off return road & crushed passenger side tubes flat) they were 2" primary into 3.5" - & could tell difference in power just test driving down road, back pressure & roots blower = canned napalm in my opinion