Actually the oil flow has not changed before and after camshaft swap, the engine block has not touched, I think lifters galleries get enough oil. thanks

Take them out and clean them

Yes aftermarket adjustable rollers I believe there are streetmaster stuff, now I try to attach a photo. Preload procedures made and ade again with all care, before with half turn after zero lash, then almost one turn complete. Pushrod is a challenge to get exactly the roller in the center of valve stem .

I could do it again, but I have already did this procedure and honestly haven't solved anything. The engine was clean and 2nd change of new oil, so I dont think the lifters collected much dirt inside..

Take the valve covers off before you put the car away for the day. The next day start it up and see if your getting oil to the rockers when the engine is cold. If yes, on both banks.. oiling should be good.

Maybe have to replace the noisy lifters.

Yes sure, if only I knew which lifters to buy to solve the problem, I would place the order IMMEDIATELY.

Probably not much help but I would look for some old NOS Mopar or old stock TRW or Crower lifters from way back instead of dealing with some of this crap that is currently made. Maybe check ebay. I have a set waiting for me when I do my cam swap. A few years ago I ordered a MP cam and the lifters were chipped along the edges on the bottom of the lifters. I sent it back.
Luckily so far I never had a issue with bad lifters. Honestly it sounds like you just got hold of some crap lifters if the oiling is good to the rockers. How do the ticking/tapping lifters feel in the bores (tight or loose?)Was it tapping before the cam change?

Infact I've had the same result with two sets of lifters 822-16 of Comp Cam and a nightmare experience with the pro-magnum 867-16 still Comp cam. I'm not saying this Company sells bad products, maybe my problem here is not poor lifters at all. Before cam change I did not have issues with clattering , the previous cam had lift under .500" and I had the stock not-adjustable stamped rockers. All lifters fall in their bores very easily with just the friction of oil viscosity.

You could just pump them up...

rocker arms after shut off the engine

Hylift Johnson lifters #B-2011 www.toplineauto.com

After some tests performed during the weekend and after reading many posts and aticles, I have come to a conclusion that the ugly noise of clicking under the valve covers is caused mainly from the extreme energy Comp Cam XE275HL. I cannot even imagine that I got 2 bad NEW sets of 822-16 lifters (matching with the cam) . The valvetrain overall geometry maybe be not perfect because the mark of roller on the valve stem tip is not so narrow but it’s on the middle anyway, and I don’t think this takes to a such ticking sound. The noise is terrible as the engine starts cold , after some seconds get better and that it needs some minute to get the usual sound of sewing machine, I’d say a pretty vintage sewing machine. I know the magnum pushrod with aluminum extruded roller rocker arms work against because of their weight, but again this cannot hurt so much at idle-low revving.
Since doing all tests engine running without valve covers I lost about 2 kg of oil over then ground ( …) so I decided to change the 10W30 with a Valvoline racing 20W50, the thicker oil seems to stand better with engine hot, oil pressure at idling is around 30-35 psi ( just a bit under middle on dash gauge)
To be honest the car seems to move quite fast, I feel quite a power under the hood, but I’m not comfortable to press the right foot, I’m scared something bad can happen to this engine now, and the conclusion is that the experience with this cam is over. I wonder if driving the car for some while could help in some way to lower the valvetrain noise , if someone can tell me an opinion it’ll be very appreciated.
It’s last chance , after that I must find the spirit to take apart again half engine to swap the camshaft.
Thanks anyway for time to read.

you might take off a valve cover & idling, press straight down on each rocker arm (lifter end) with a wooden hammer handle & see if any of em get quiet(er). those are the bad ones (might just be one or two)

RapidRobert


Yes I tried several times to do this test. engine idling, under my pressure of the wooden handle on rocker (lifter end) all lifters behaved the same, none of them became silent. Instead the noise increased, due to the fact that each lifter under pressure slowly bleeds down the oil that has inside..and yes the oil pressure at the gauge was ok !

You're sure when on the base circle you have at least .020" preload?

Roberto, I can only imagine your frustration level with this problem. One thing I noticed you mentioned that these are stage IV heads that have had a lot of work done to them over the years. Have you checked to see if one head is milled more than the other? Hence the possible need for different length pushrods. I had a set of heads years ago I put on a motor and was chasing my tail on things only to realize one had been shaved about .030. I run solid cams but I could see if one of your heads was shaved this is maybe whats causing you the grief with your hydraulic cam???

RapidRobert,
yes sure, I tried with different preloads..half turn, 3/4 and 1 full turn of adjusting screw.
actually I havent observed any gain with increasing preload. Thank you

Ski 61701

I must say these stage IV are everything but perfect. During the years they have been milled , massaged, machined, and the tip of valve stems actually are not lined because of recessed valves after grinding...this is the reason of adjustable rockers. Before putting this (damn) high energy highlift cam I had the original ( worn) stamped rockers and I had no issues about valvetrain noise, nevertheless the preload on most of hydraulic lifters excedeed the standard value and it was very dangerous with engine revving because of possible hug between valve and piston with lifter pumping-up... sorry I read your reply so late.

The misalignment of the valve tip is because whomever did the valve job didn't take care in making sure they were close in height to each other.

I haven't read the entire thread but if you have lifters bleeding down it's more than likely due to the tolerances inside the lifters allowing it to happen. You have have an adjustable valve train why not put in a solid cam and be done with it ??

I have another question , what valve covers are on the engine and have you looked to make sure the adjusters are not hitting the underside ?

One thing I have read on these pages , and experienced personally is that Comp hyd. cams can be a little noisy because of the fast ramps , you may be chasing a problem that is not a problem ?

I read where you say you could push down on some of the lifters and they seemed spongy ? That is the tolerance inside the lifters allowing the oil out , nothing is going to change that.

What exactly are you expecting for noise level ?? Roller lifters on fast ramps will have the sewing machine sound ???

Can you post a video of the sound ?