Not sure but i think air plane engines are low rpm engines.

I run Scat $300 I Beams with a 1.400 8740 bolt torqued to 63 ft lbs using ANY wrench I can lay my hands on and it turns over 8800 RPM

every week end we take it out-- and I drive it like I could care less if she goes Boom!

JERK it like the idiots in NHRA pits and you are not accurate but..Guess what??? IT will run 300 plus MPH anyway and never fail

I have NEVER had a rod bolt fail--ever! The only ones that have come in my shop that failed were stock bolts with a 1300 gram TRW slug on a stock rod that was turned past 6500 a LOT so.......

I have to say----
Most engine shops in the world finally get a rod bolt stretch gauge--they use it a few months then it goes in the bottom drawer and never comes back out--Unless you build Indy 500 or Nascar units all you have to do is lube the bolt threads and under the bolt head and use any old tq wrench you can lay your hands on and it will work out fine --you will never have a rod bolt failure from doing it this way--Folks do some crazy stuff and spend some crazy $$ so they can sleep at night thinking that nothing bad will ever happen--they get there butts beat at the drag strip by guys that know that a Sears or Lowes TQ wrench when used with proper lube and proper technique will get that bolt in the zone of WORKING to do its job---GEEEZ! It ain't that hard to do this--The whole entire deal of buying ASP 2000 Bolts speaks to my point!!!!!!! Those darn bolts could hold the hinge on a door with a frigging Volcano behind it!! SO CAN A PLAIN OLD 8740 bolt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok if you run 70 lbs boost ya may need some extra care but if you are NA and a rod bolt fails YOU did something wrong!!!
I run Scat $300 I Beams with a 1.400 8740 bolt torqued to 63 ft lbs using ANY wrench I can lay my hands on and it turns over 8800 RPM every week end we take it out-- and I drive it like I could care less if she goes Boom! 9000 in the water is just part of the show gang!Guess what-- she don't go Boom! I DO NOT need ARP2000 bolts and neither do you in 99% of cases
If you are in a class--and want to make an A then answer is stretch gauge and proper lube--and if you want a doctorate degree the torque angle is the path to that grade but...if you race and just want to build an engine so you can do what you really want to do --as in LAY THE WOOD TO IT and WIN!! Then....lube it right and use any wrench using a SMOOTH PULL and there ya have it
I had test equipment and went from shop to shop testing torque wrenches and adjusting them--great living doing not MUCH--turns out that the WAY A GUY used the wrench made more difference than the wrench--get them snug then give one long pull to the click--you are done move on!! JERK it like the idiots in NHRA pits and you are not accurate but..Guess what??? IT will run 300 plus MPH anyway and never fail
I have NEVER had a rod bolt fail--ever! The only ones that have come in my shop that failed were stock bolts with a 1300 gram TRW slug on a stock rod that was turned past 6500 a LOT so.......
You guys worry about things that do not matter and get beat by guys that could care less
Whew! Ok I am done....