Yes, internals would be an area to go after. The crankshaft SCAT built for my last stroker motor weighs only 54 lbs. The typical stroker big block crank weighs 68 to 70 lbs. You can take weight out of the rods, pistons, piston pins, rings, etc. There are lightweight alternatives for valves, springs, retainers, pushrods, rocker arms, etc. Get the intake ported, switch to an all-aluminum carb, the alternator looks heavy compared to a Denso unit, etc. Probably 30 or 40 lbs in that engine that can come out.

I do love the work that you've done on the car. Very high quality fab skills and artistry. Some of the nicest work I've ever seen.

Thank you for your kind remarks on the craft. I try.
I've recently thought about lighter cranks, rods and such but at the time I was building up on the parts, I honestly did not give it much thought other than aluminum rods being more trouble than what their worth in a street/strip motor.
Perhaps with the know how out in the market these days, my next motor will be much more lighter internally and thus less hot combo so as to really have a relatively stock, well sealed motor that really scoots.
I've been lurking around with the intention of a Denso unit. IIRC, my Powermaster GM unit is 13 Lbs.

Just swapped my BME 426 7.150"/2.200" aluminum rods for Molnar 7.100"/2.200 steel rods, new Diamond pistons, and .9mm,.9mm, 3mm ring pack. Though the rod was slightly heavier the piston was 15g lighter, the rings 20g lighter. The result was that the reciprocating weight was lighter. All of it beyond the pin. The rotating weight was slightly heavier. The entire bob weight went from 2222g to 2244g. However we were able to remove the 22g from the crank pin side of the crank instead of adding to the counter weight. Therefore the reciprocating weight was less, rotating was equal along with the advantage of thin rings. Win win, we'll see next Friday.
Doug

Beyond the pin is great.
Next build I will look closer at the lifters, pushrods and rods in particular.
Diamonds in it now. Ross slugs got tossed.
I'd like to compare the Molnar columns against the others out there.

The little Denso alternator off of a GEO is 5.5 lbs and puts out 55 amps so something like that should work. I have some alternator bracket kits on my website or I'm sure you could fab something. I built a few alternator bracket kits from Ti once just for fun. It is fairly easy to do, just have a shop water jet out the brackets from Ti plate. A water jet cuts thru Ti fairly quickly.

One example on the engine is to take a serious look at the crankshaft. That Eagle crank you have might be stock Mopar journals or it might be BB Chevy journals. But you can go with SBC journals or even drop it all the way down to Honda journals to save weight. Carrillo makes steel rods for Mopar engines with Honda journals. Standard Super Stock type of parts. On the pin end you can go with a .927 pin rather than the typical .990 pin. Get a truss type piston with the short pin and you save even more weight. MM rings save weight, hollow lifters are lighter, beehive valve springs are lighter, etc. I sent my intake manifold to Wilson for porting recently. It came back 1.5 lbs lighter and I picked up 25 horsepower. There is weight that can come off the heads down in the pushrod area. Most of that webbing can be removed without causing any harm. You can have the camshaft gun drilled to save a little weight. Milodon makes an aluminum oil pump that is 3 lbs lighter than factory cast iron pump. The small oil filter from an Omni weighs less than the standard one and holds less oil.

Here is a picture of my rotating assembly. This crankshaft has been gun drilled, rod journals are drilled, the counterweights are machined out, the flywheel flange is profiled, etc. They took 14 lbs off of this crank and it could be even lighter with some more work. The connecting rods are SCAT I beam rods which are super lightweight. With Honda journals and .927 pins they would be even lighter. My pistons are shelf stock so they are a little heavy but piston vendors can make super light pistons if you ask.

Here is my low deck 470 inch engine that has the SCAT lightweight crank. This engine makes 715 hp and weighs 516 lbs with oil. With a little more work I could get it under 500 lbs.

MMMAAAANNNN Andy, you're the spy from within. There's science in your discoveries.
Those internal lightweight mods sure cut down on the lard.
Yes, my Eagle crank and rods are hefty. I have my weight notes on those somewhere.

Loaded yesteryear spent question. 55 amps is good enough for an MSD 6AL box, Firecore CD coil, Aeromotive 1000 in tank fuel pump, Caravan cooling fan, running and dash lights?

I wasn't sure that the Milodon oil pump was internal or external pick up. Is it internal? I can't seem to find it in their catalog.

I once wanted to use an original A990 aluminum oil pump casing but was told that they did not last too long even under quarter mile conditions. Maybe the Milodons are made from a stronger alloy.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a low deck block is already lighter than a raised deck by about 30 Lbs right?

Later next Winter, I'm fab/modifying an aluminum oil pan out of a Charlies standard aluminum pan to fit my engines set back position in the K. That should remove a pound or two at most.

The Milodon pump uses an internal pickup. Part number 21814. I have a used one that I'll sell for $100 if you're interested. The pump saves some weight and the cover saves even more. Here is a picture with the small oil filter. Total savings with pump, cover and small filter is probably around 5 lbs.

Great info.

East Coast can rewind the small alternators to 81 amp.
Doug

The SCAT crank that I used costs about $2500 so it isn't cheap but 440Source sells a low buck lightweight crank. Theirs isn't nearly as light, but it sells for $900.

http://store.440source.com/Ultralight-Crankshaft/productinfo/44042506800-6-LW/

Are you making that much power that an aluminum block would be moving around? For the MAYBE 1-2% power loss IF it moved around, I'd take the weight loss of almost 200 lbs off the car all day long.

Holy crap that's a lot of money for a SCAT crank! Every SCAT product I've ever messed w/ was WAYYY cheaper than that. The Callies magnum crank that's in my hemi was $1800.

It'd be nice if it was easy to do a back to back test and see just what a lightweight crank is worth as far as power and/or ET at the track. Obviously that isn't feasible, but I bet the power per dollar is pretty low.
I built some sb chevy roundy round motors w/ SCAT Ultralight rotating assemblies. While they were pretty light and impressive looking when on the engine stand, I don't think it was necessarily worth the money.

You have many options for $2500 that will show power. I think that's where I'd spend my money. Of course if money isn't a consideration that's another story.
Doug

Jerico.

Maybe 600 or a little less at the wheels.
I'm not so much concerned with valve adjustments and little ring seal, though I should, but I am concerned with water leakage from cylinders into oil galleys and seal gasket leaks because of the growth and retract.
I like to sit out the marinating period on most products and see how they fair in performance and price setting. I do think the light alloy blocks are reasonably priced for the serious racer.

Maybe some company/builder will sponsor the car with an light alloy block for a real world street/strip test.

Quite a few racers on Drag Week run aluminum blocks. Jay Browns Cammer powered Shelby ran with zero sealing issues for the 1100 plus miles making 1000hp.

East coast electric?
Any more info on this?
I'm interested

That hand built steering wheel didn't add any power either. Nor did the lightweight bumper or the aluminum exhaust. It is all about weight reduction.

Yes East Coast Auto Electric. I sent my 55 amp back a few years ago. I believe the cost was $85.
Doug

I understand that. I also believe that you could make a better gain for $2500 than that crank. Of course we could put that motor in a car and see how it runs?
Doug