I just got the Tanks Inc. EFI tank installed in my Duster and figured I'd share what I learned in the process. Picture heavy.

Here are a couple pictures of the tank as delivered.




Tanks Inc fuel pickup/hanger. Not included with tank.


Tanks Inc sending unit without the float installed. The float is trimmed to length based on a table they provide. Easy enough.

Very nice setup. Don't forget the seals before you bolt it all up.

Thats the baiscs. Lets install our pump and rock out....

Hmm Walbro 450 is the same size as the pump opening. No idea how they expect you to mount a pump, run the fuel line and electrical in such a small opening. Maybe the popular 255lph pumps are tiny.


Solution? Chop a hole in a brand new tank!


Underside of the cutout.


The tank actually has some decent baffles and an internal sump.

Next I built a split ring and welded nuts on the underside. This was put inside the tank and plug welded to the top flange. (no pics).

Then I built the top plate and new pump hanger. The threaded sending unit mounting ring was reattached to the new top plate.



Slammed that in the tank, added a gallon or so of gas and hot wired it on the ground to test.


Everything worked. So I jammed it up in the car. 73 Duster, mini-tub, springs relocated, Dana. It was tight to say the least, but i think everything works.



Overall, Im unimpressed with what they offer for an EFI tank. I basically paid extra for the recessed area, which I could have done myself had I know how tiny those openings were. Maybe you could run an external pump and stick a Holley hydramat on the end of the Tanks Inc. pickup, but the then you would have to add a return somewhere. That would have cost more and goal all along was an internal pump.

Oh, and Im pretty sure the sending unit came with a few pages of a chineese newspaper as packaging.

That tank would be perfect for the average guy that wants to put an EZ EFI or something on a more stock build. The price seems pretty good since its powder coated. I wanted to run external and run my pumps behind the tank so I didn't go this route, if the recess had access to the back I might have.

You might consider sticking those return hoses outside of the sump area if you can. My theory on this is returning as far away from the pickup as possible will help keep the fuel cooler. I have done a few drag weeks and some of the EFI guys have had fuel heating problems where after awhile on the road the entire load of fuel is hot because of the return coming back from 200* fuel rails. Returning farther away makes me feel better about that but I doubt its a total cure.

I am going to run two walboro GSL392s that feed from a sump a friend designed that we are welding into a new stock tank. Two pumps is overkill at the time but I can stage them with my EFI and will always have a spare that can be fired up with a few key strokes. The pumps were cheap but by the time I got all the fittings made up to Y them together and connect to the tank I spent about as much as a twin holley EFI pump, the difference being I can service this setup.

I directed the return into the sump with the thought that it would be beneficial in a low fuel situation. I didn't consider fuel heating because I never had an issue with the old A1000 and fuel cell, but will keep it in mind and it's easy enough to change.

I started this deal planning to use 2 of the 450 pumps but hanging them would have been harder.

If you run a regulator up front, it will get hot. I use a LS filter regulator and the return line is only about 6' long so mine dumps into the basket.

I use the stock tank/pickup and external pump and 1 of the 4 corner vents (1970 emissions system) in the tank as the return. I've driven 8hr drives and haven't had anything bad happen. If I'm below 1/4 tank and nail it however I will see a drop in fuel psi and a stutter. Baffles or mat would definitely help that.

You cut that tank open for no reason..
you just needed to make a different mount
for the pump... the large part of the pump
would fit in so if you made the mount to fit
above the large dia you could have made it
work.. I've done many mounts with closer
clearances(a partial rap around of sheet metal
would have worked)

That looks like the system I want to run on my Savoy. I have seen dual pump upgrades on on a heavily boosted Toyota Supra that works very well.

Gus

Yes that could have been done, with a separate return, but would have been 10lbs of stuff mushed through a 1lb tube. I like the access I have now and I gained new appreciation for welding sheet metal. I also still have the option for a second pump.

Back to the top so I can find it later ....

I'm looking at buying the Tanks Inc. A body tank, j. , How has this been working out ?

I am a little hesitant to post this, but....

I have designed and I am currently manufacturing a solution for the fuel side of these tanks. I have one in my 68 Charger, and all I could find available was the cheap stamped steel units that had no modularity to them. So I decided to go ahead and make a real nice, yet affordable modular "Fuel Puck" for these tanks.

Here is a Solidworks rendering of the parts together on the fuel puck side. The wire pass through is what sets it apart from the other solutions as it no longer has the exposed posts for the wires, and you can get a full size wire right to the fuel pump.

I don't know if this will work in everyone's case, but it's a better solution then what is available now as a separate unit.

Ryan

Make it so all the nipples point in the same direction.

Looks good. I had something similar in mind but ended up with a simpler (easier to make sans CNC) design for my fuel cell.

Racetronix sells a GM based wire bulkhead that has 14g wire in it.

2 45's would cure that , what I'd like to see is the wire come in from the side so that could tuck tighter to the floor.

Yup....

Here is two 45s attached. It would be impossible make them go directly in. Wire management was the hardest part, however this method looked to be the most robust. All the other methods had exposed posts, and ring terminals, or they are only held in by a clip and an o-ring.

This wire terminal screws in with a 3/8" NPT, and then seats on an o-ring as it bottoms.

Keep in mind that this unit is tiny! the width is less then a business card. It also has larger ports on the bottom then other units that are out there.

The weight of tank is doing a great job at making sure my car doesn't float off the jack stands....Hopefully in she will be mobile again in a month or so and I'll give a real update.

That fuel pick looks trick