Does anybody use those valve adjusting tools that have the box wrench/allen wrench combo? If so, do they make it easier to adjust the valves?

The last time I adjusted the valves I used a separate box wrench and an allen wrench and it was a pain.

The rockers are Comp Pro Magnums on a small block if it matters.

Thanks for any input.

yes and no, kind of clumsy, handle to high for leverage to tighten need to go back over with flat wrench to make sure locknuts are tight

http://lsmproducts.com/lsm_products/valve_lash_adjusting_wrenches

One of best tools I ever bought...

OT if the spec is 20 tho, if a 21 tho feeler gauge has a slight drag and a 19 tho feeler gauge has no drag then you are within 1 tho of spec. there was on old Hot Rod article decades ago that stated that even a few tho off on the adj makes a significant difference in cam timing. I think a dial indicator being carefull to mount it inline would be the best way to confirm the amt of clearance you do have for that part of the deal

It should be for the $.

I bought their on head valve spring tester.
Not cheap either , but quality costs.
I wish I was rich , but I am gonna bite the bullet and get one of these too I think.

The LSM tool with the built in torque wrench is great. I have only used a few of LSMs tools but they have all been top notch.

I have their valve spring pressure tester (PC-100)...suprisingly it was extremely easy and handy to use...I got it at a great price (old racer selling off a bunch of his stuff) so it was money well spent...I tell ya, when you use a quality tool all that angst over the high price really goes away and puts a smile on your face! I try to save up over time and occasinally spoil myself with such a quality add-on to the garage tools collection...

I saw those on Summit Racing's site. Very nice, but pricey.

The biggest issue with getting it right on my setup is that it is a Comp XFI hydraulic roller with solid roller lifters. The spec has to be zero lash cold, hopefully opening up to .006" to .008" hot. Not much margin for error.

I was of the opinion that hydraulic cams do not have the same ramp as a solid and will not work with solid lifters. Is that different on a roller.

Solid lifters on a hydraulic cam can work if the lash is very tight.
Been there with a hydraulic flattappet cam. The lash needs to be taken up before/while the camlobe enters the ramp.

According to Comp Cams, this cam can be run this way as long as the lash is kept tight. The reason it is this way is because the hydraulic roller lifters wouldn't clear the block. It's not ideal in my opinion, but I don't have the time or money right now to change it.

AndyF built this engine a few years back. He seems to know what he's doing, so I figure it should be OK.

Yes, I made my own tool. Yes, it makes adjusting the valves easier.