I got a gallon to clean up some Michigan heavy rusted parts. Been in there 24 hours. It has got some of it, but not the real thick stuff. How long have you guys experienced on a time frame? Any info thanks in advance.

If there was any oil or grease on the parts that will be a barrier to the evaporust. Also, it works better if its hot. One of those electric bar-b-que starters in the bucket works good. It also helps to pick or chip off any heavy rust you can - even as the evaporust is doing its thing.

Cleaned them in kerosene first, Brake clean next, then wire wheeled them next. Took them out and chipped off what the evoporust loosened up. Hope this helps.

Take them out and wipe them down or rinse them and then put them back in.

All the above plus add time, thicker stuff takes a few days. Scrub clean with thinner each day.

I used naval jelly with quicker results on a heavily rusted wheel with good results. Got it at hardware store.

The only advantage to naval jelly is it stays moist. Since he's submerging the parts. that's not an issue.

Rinsing them is a good idea. I scrub things every hour or so if I'm in the shop but I have no patience!!

I can't see the point in scrubbing with thinners each day.

With Evapo-Rust, you can check progress each day. No need to check any sooner. Heavily rusted parts may take several days. Even mildly rusted parts often need more than one day, depending on the strength of the chemical.

I always attempt physical removal of rust before the first dip by at least wire brushing and washing with soap and water.

Each time I check, I remove the parts from the Evapo-Rust, wash in hot, soapy water, and dry. Then I again attempt to physically remove any remaining rust, which saves depleting the chemical and speeds up the process. Physical removal can be wire brushing, sand papering, scraping with brass, or sometimes picking at the crusty spots with sharp tools or files. Back into the Evapo-Rust another day if needed.

Occasionally on heavily rusted parts, the Evapo-Rust fails to remove or is too slow to remove some crusty spots. In these cases, I have had good results soaking the parts in vinegar, a very weak acid, for a day or so, which tends to "pop" the crust. I may also attempt popping the crust with a sharp tool, which does no damage to the part since, if there is crusty rust, the part is already pitted anyhow.

Once parts are free of rust, I have had zero luck preventing returning flash rust after a few weeks, even when immediately drying with a heat gun, washing off with solvent, and storing in a Ziploc bag. Maybe the humidity is higher here than where others have had success with this. What I do to stop later rusting is coat with phosphoric acid and immediately wipe off. Repeat a week later. All 4 restoration shops I have talked to are using phosphoric acid too for rust prevention, especially for hidden or hard to reach parts of bodies. Some examples of phosphoric acid are Rust Cure, Gem, Naval Jelly, and Ospho, but there are many others, usually greenish in color.

I would not use any phosphoric acid for heavy rust removal, since it is an acid, and it will attack the base metal slightly. Although phosphoric acids such as Rust Cure are strongly acidic, very low on the pH scale, contact with skin is benign. If any itching, simply wash off with soapy water, and the itching will be gone. BUT, where there are fingerprints on the metal, the phosphoric acid or even Evapo-Rust may be partly blocked. To prevent finger prints on the metal I always use rubber gloves when dealing with Evapo-Rust or phosphoric acid.

One result of coating a de-rusted part with phosphoric acid and wiping off immediately is that the part will be slightly darkened. But that's okay with me.

After using Evapo Rust thoroughly clean and dry the part. Then use lacquer thinner to clean the part. Then I used RPM to keep it from rusting

Yes, correct for parts with a bare metal final finish, except I will still coat and wipe off phosphoric acid before waxing for extra insurance.

But if you are going to paint the part, you can't wax it. You can paint over wiped off phosphoric acid. Treating metal with phosphoric acid (called Bonderizing) before painting is used extensively in the auto industry.

This is another reason for no fingerprints allowed.

Agree.

I was speaking about bare metal parts.

For painted parts, since I live in CA, I usually don't have to resort to Evaporust.

For large parts like doors, trunk lid, and fenders, I'm planning to abandon Evapo-Rust and use de-rusting by electrolysis in a child's wading pool. Plenty of YouTube videos on that.

After de-rusting, I'll coat and wipe off phosphoric acid. Hidden and hard to reach places don't have to be wiped off, but any exposed or painted area needs wiping because the phosphoric acid will leave a too thick coating. An un-wiped coating can be re-dissolved by a new, fresh coating, then wiped.

I recently cleaned a very rusty 340 block.
..i did some experimenting and ended up mixing one part Evapo Rust with 8 parts water,completely submerged the block and left it for 6 days,Block came out completely rust free but needed a good cleaning with water to get the rust sludge off.
it was rusted pretty badly and i did wire wheel the bores first

How did you handle the water jacket cleaning ?

So how are you planning to remove all the paint, undercaoting/sound deadener first ????

To add a little more fun and /info on this ... phosphoric acid converts iron oxide to iron phosphate but it really does not provide any means of long term protection to the steel. chromates are added to products like ospho to "inhibit rust ".. and one old school use of phosphoric acid was to clean rusty cast iron frying pans ! old timers used a potato to wipe them out. potatoes are loaded with phosphoric acid !

And if anyone tells you you shouldn't clean a cast iron pan because it should be "seasoned", that's pure BS too! They didn't clean the grease out of iron pans in "the old days" because the pans travelled in the weather on the outside of the chuck wagon and the grease prevented rust. In this day and age, iron skillets should be washed after each and every use so the remains don't go rancid - which also wasn't an issue since the pan was used for every meal !!

Evapo Rust only removes rust ..filling the water jackets with calcium remover may
work...mine were pretty clean,and the remaining traces of paint aren't hard to deal with.

I would clean a cast pan but i would never soap it.Put a 1/4 inch of water in,raise the heat and it'll clean itself with a little scrape.

Everything is better with BACON grease for seasoning. I imagine that you use soap in your coffee pot too...