It seems to me that a lot of the NHRA faster Comp. eliminator cars ran Pro Trans Proflytes in the 1200 + HP cars several years back I know of one very fast PSCA 10.5 Outlaw car that ran one also with no problems several years ago. He switch motors (stepped up to a BAE Hemi motor on alcholol away from Q16) and switch back to a Mikes glide and then later to a Rossler 3 speed trans.

Does the TH400 have an inherent strength advantage by basic design, or is it like everything else Chevy, it's the strength designed into it by the aftermarket (aftermarket case of example) that makes it better?

LoL

In addition to the large aftermarket, the TH400 has a power-on-power design where upshifting simply involves applying more clutches. A 727 has to deal with apply-release mechanics in the 2-3 overlap, which can break things or rapidly wear parts if managed improperly.

I use TH400's. Love em. Once you buy the bellhousing it's easy. Easy to build, easy to find parts, unlimited converter options. I use the upgraded sprags, torrington the thrust and a cheap snap ring support which helps the case strength. Mainly though if you're making horsepower TH400's are a good choice simply based on converters.

So, what do you do for starter, flywheel etc? Are these included or sourced from the bell manufacturer? Sorry, never went this route.

I have flexplates and crank adapters for Reid and ATI. All SFI approved. Also provide the information to make everthing fit including starter and converter spacing. I prefer to make this up without starter spacing.

So what does this car 60' on the footbrake?

Best 60' on motor is 1.320.
Best 60' on nitrous is 1.311, but unsure if it tripped the beams w/ the front tires or something under the car b/c the front end came down somewhere close to the 60'.
My best pass ever was a 1.409 sixty, definitely tripped w/ the back tires on that pass.

I used a JW bellhousing and flexplate. I think the flex plate comes with a spacer ring. The bellhousing comes with a machined bushing for the starter snount and I had to use a factory shim on the starter.

For what its worth.. I have a B1 motor, real close to 4 digits in power and like many, I became stubborn and wanted to stay with a 727.. After breaking it 3 times in one year and throwing lots of $$$ at it.. I gave in and went to the Glide..

One less headache now...

Here is a picture of a late night rebuild at Mopars at the Strip, when the trans let go in the burnout box on the 3rd hit..

Thanks again to Al and Steven Alguire... Jay Waxler, Curtis G and others who stayed up late to help rebuild it..

So what part was it that broke? Specifically. Each time.

My experience was one thing breaks, you fix it and then the NEXT weak point shows up. Fix that and the cycle continues.

Obviously you COULD put the best of everything in one from jump, but the cost of that, the realization it's in a stock case still and what you can get an aftermarket glide or 400 for, tends to have guys move away from that option.

Another thing to look at..........if you don't have a spare, break it at the track and don't have parts, you are likely done. If you DO break a glide or 400, the guy in the next trailer likely has one. When you go hundreds of miles from home to race, that's an important consideration.

We carried a spare glide and needed it once in 3 years. It was a 3K trans, so you could look at it as 3K just sitting there, but it was a twin to our other trans. You COULD build a bit lower cost unit as strictly a spare. We don't carry a spare 400, but so far, 2 years in a radial car, ours has been perfect. Of course it's a REALLY good one. Bruno size input, all billet stuff, etc.

he didn't have a spare at the track.... and we found a 727 in the swap area and had him back together in a matter of hours. I don't carry a spare, nor do I make the HP many of you do, but get a few guys with their beer on and mountains can be moved....

Using Monte's analogy here this trans was at "step 1" on the "next weak point" list and that assessment was made after the teardown . While in the burnout we noted the wheels quit spinning. Back in the pits it verified we had fluid flow so the pump was spinning. Out it came and it was found the hub that the input shaft is pressed into cracked and was now just spinning freely inside. We tore the trans down and to be honest, other than some Kolene clutches and steels and an old Griner t-brake, this trans was STOCK TO THE BONE. Input shaft, front drum, kickdown apply lever, aluminum front planet.... pretty impressive actually for the HP in front of it. This repair got him through the weekend.

I believe after this adventure the trans was fitted with a nice input steel front hub, a billet steel front drum, a thick kickdown apply strut (old stock one had a bow to it when we "fixed" it at the track), but the next area of concern.... aluminum front planetary... yep, not sure how many passes Don had on it, but it knocked the splines right out and this I believe is where he threw in the towel. Don was gracious enough to donate the trans to me since he knew I was more "mo-tard" than himself and wouldn't ever veer away from a TF .

To be honest, I'm not a transmission guy, I'll pull one out from the car, or I'll put it in, but there is no way I'll open one up without adult supervision..

But each time, it was on the input side.. The first one I believe was the planetary.. The 2nd time was the input shaft and on the last time.. we didnt even bother to open her up.. we just gave it away and hoped the guy we gave it to, could use the parts inside..

So after the 3rd breakdown, it was an easy decision for me.. $3500 for a PG (complete) or $5000+ for a built 727 that still has a stock case and requires a shield or blanket.. Not only was it a financial decision, but a PG is supposed to be a more consistent transmission for us bracket racers.. Only needing to shift once

I do have a pic of the broken input shaft..

Did that twice before buying a GOOD one,,,,,,,,,,,,,