I have a 1967 D100 CSS 383/Auto, I consider it a rare truck as aside from being a big block CSS it has the individual gauges and power assist steering, among other items. The 383 which I believe to be original has a collapsed lifter and the crank looks like it will need to be machined or replaced. What I would like to do is rebuild the 383 to 69-70HP specs internally, but externally I would like to use all the 1967 performance parts so it looks like it could have come from the factory that way.

This is what I believe I need so far.
Cam 68-70 440 268°/284° P4452783
Exhaust Manifolds 67 440 Right 2806900/Left 2806974
Heads 67 440 2780915
Intake 67 383 2205968
Carb 67 383 Carter AFB 4299 96251

My questions are these
1. Are my parts/numbers above the correct performance parts?
2. What is a good engine rebuild kit to stay within these parameters?
3. According to my research there was an unsilenced air cleaner used on the 67 HP models that was similar to what was used on the 68-70 HP models. Does anyone have a part number for the 67?
4. I have looked at the Edelbrock DP4B intake, but is this something that could have been ordered either from the factory or from Direct Connection in 1967?

Thank you for your help. -BD

You might want to post this in the resto area or the truck area. Most guys in the race section don't pay much attention to factory correct part numbers.

If it was my truck I'd use a 440 crankshaft to turn the 383 into a 426 and then use all correct external parts.

915 heads were 440 only, all 383s came with the 516 heads.

Not sure why you expect someone like Govier or Ehrenberg to be looking under your hood?
You're going to a lot of trouble to do things that are not cost-effective.

I would suggest the following:

1. Use your stock heads, but put the larger exhaust valves in it. You can upgrade both intake & exhaust valves if you want, but for your use, I'd recommend just the exhaust to stock '68+ size.

2. Run your existing carb/intake if it's a 4-barrel. If you have a 2-barrel 383, find a stock intake and carb.

3. No need to change your exhaust manifolds

You were a little quick with that.

The DP4B had a part number on it to make it NHRA legal but I don't think that happened till after 67.

The stock iron intake isn't that great, especially the narrow pattern 67 with an AFB, doctor up a Performer RPM .

I'd take that original engine, lifter crank and all, and shove it in a corner. Go dig up a 400 and dress it up like a 383 how ever you like, even stroke it with a 3.75 crank and enjoy the truck. I wouldn't put a nickel in a numbers engine but if it makes you feel better afterwords correct the crank and a set of lifters. And have it ready to run. Years ago I had a brilliant idea to freshen a numbers engine, the machine shop had a mishap and gouged the block requiring a sleeve. Never again... Hand the next owner the engine and smile

A certain person swapped a 340 into an early (narrow) A body, complete with the big passenger-side exhaust manifold, big intake manifold, and fairly hot cam (kept the driver-side 273 manifold ported to paper-thin) with almost complete success for many years: "It's the stock 273".

You're building a defense against a question that may never be asked ("Is it stock?").