Has anybody have any amp problems? Which one you using? Any pics?

Been using one for over 7 years from a 4-runner and it`s bad azz............fires up and shows 14.5-14.7 and powers everything nicely.......

Any more specific information on what model 4-runner? dont know much about them but i bet there may be a whole bunch of versions.
Also is it internaly regulated?

Late model alternator swaps are very intresting.

just put one on my car, it's nice. 14.5 volts at idle.
probably gonna put an electric cooling fan on now coz so much voltage...

get the brackets that arengineering makes, lots of places sell them. mancini is one.

i forget what the alt part number is, the instructions that andy has on his site list all that. i just got a cheap rebuilt alt off of ebay and it works fine. already had the single groove pulley.

I just got the 60 amp one from a friend like new. It says 60 idle 80 at 4500 on tag is that why u guys running. I have msd electric fuel and a big spal fan I am also doing the electric water pump deal. The fan is the big sucker at 25 amps

I use a denso #14611 off ebay. It fits an '87 Toyota Camry. My voltmeter is always at 14 and I've never had to charge the battery, love this setup!
Mine's hung off an AR-Engineering motor plate, He also sells the 3-wire pigtail for the denso alternator.

That sounds like the Viper 2 speed fan on low..
I use the 85A Denso with a external regulator...
I prefer the external regulator.. why trash a alt
because of the regulator went bad.. plus its a
easy test to see if the alt is putting out

I have 1 brand new 14611 left ($90 plus the ride), for $110 I can make it a 1 wire where you only need to run the battery cable, or make it 16 volt wire wire for the same. But I won't have more 16 volt regs for a week. If they ever go bad like P-body says, it only takes a couple Phillips screws to change them under the cover

Bolt the Denso on and don't look back. Been working working with Denso alternators for over 30 years and seen ONE regulator failure. As much as we use our cars you will never need to buy another one and with Andy's kit it makes for a clean install.
Before I got the A/R kit I just used the motor plate to mount it.

Mine is off a 91 Toyota pick-up with a 22RE 4 popper.

Gus

Was running the 22RE off an 85-92 4 runner (round plug and V belt). 60A and good idle charge characteristics. Andy's brackets.

Just picked up this, but haven't run it yet. Seller also has a 95A unit.

Can't say I'd recommend it yet, "reman-ed" unit was pretty rough, needing heli-coil, etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180718768805?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

i have one and love it

I bought one of these kits for the stock alt. ---seems to work great



http://store.alternatorparts.com/ho7005-chrysler-square-back-alternator-80-amp-upgrade-kit-1.aspx

I need to do SOMETHING. I'm tired of the dim lights at idle. I'm not sure I want to rewire the whole dang car, though. The jumper from the alternator to the starter doesn't bother me but...

A simple fix is to use the halagon lights.. you
dont need to rewire.. they draw way less.. but a
new style alt helps out.. I run the denso 85a and
run a lot of elec stuff and injection... the volts
set at 14.7 at idle
EDIT
I run this light on my Rampage.. its bright and
has a perimeter of white leds and a inner small
light that I also have hooked up to my turn signal

Dim lights at idle is the whole reason why I came up with the Denso swap kit years ago. The Mopar alternator is very lazy at idle while the Denso cranks out a bunch of amps. Just the difference that 50 years of R&D makes I guess. Plus the Denso alternator is 5 lbs less weight to drag around and it seems to be a very reliable design. My wife has more than 200K miles on her 4Runner and the alternator is still going strong.

Seems like amperage is like money.(there's NEVER enough).

I bought a Powermaster rated @90A and still loose a little ground @idle. Of course my load combined is 46 amps and I have an underdrive pulley. The alt has been measured @ 90 amps when the engine revs some.

That`s a great idea...........I have the older halogens which help but that may be my next step if they`re that much better...........

Andy.

Are you talking about the 60 amper?

I have an electric fuel Aeromotive 1000 HP pump in the tank, electric caravan cooling fan, all working dash cluster, turn signal/brake lights and headlights, Firecore distributor and CD coil.
No Radio, no heater, and or other accessories. That's it.

Those that need really high Amp alternator look into mechman alternator..high in price but works really well..my son is in to car audio sound competition car has 6 batteries total and 1 of the alternator works great and he drives the car..moving up in competition he's going to add another alternator on a custom mount to run the both ..this is a 2001 maxima..

In your case the under drive may be the reason
you still have a idle issue.. if you had the stock
rpm ratio it would most likely take care of it..
they still need to turn X rpms at idle to have a
positive output(that will exceed your total draw)
EDIT
I can see a fluctuation at idle if the fan kicks on
and it has a rpm drop(before the AIS kicks it back up
so that can last maybe a second

I have ran the Mopar denso before and when my fan comes on my idle drops bad.

I checked the 14611 on the bag, $63 so not a bad price. It looked like all of them were set up for a ribbed belt. Where can you get the correct pulley?

Mine`s a v-belt from Kragens and would rather buy locally w/a warranty than on line but that`s just me...........

How much do these Toyota alternators weigh?

I made my pulley but I'm sure that someone sells
the pulley... I wanted a deep pulley

Well I'm at work here in the Toyota shop and I just threw a pick-up alternator on the scale and it weighs almost 10 pounds.
Some are lighter but this one is a 90 amp 2000 Tacoma alternator.

Gus

So does this alternator have the balls to run an EFI pump, HHR fan, electronic ignition as well as lights, etc. ?? If not, what sort of amps would it take?

More or less 10 Lbs.

The 85 amp Denso I run does it without issue

Well new cars have all of that and more and the OEM engineers don't seem to have any problems putting these Denso alternators on new cars. My wife's 4Runner even has heated seats and stuff like that which you aren't going to find in any muscle car.

I ran an HHR fan,electric water pump,fuel pump, lights,and my MSD ignition and the volts dropped to 13.5 at 900 RPM with the brakes on at a light. That was with the 60 amp unit that I pulled of a cash for clunkers car 8 years ago. This conversion is the best update you can do for your car. Just imagine sitting at a light and your head lights don't dim like a pee-hole in a snow bank. The one thing I do strongly suggest is that you go with a factory Denso re-man unit over a P.O.S. Ebay junker. I have never had a problem with Denso rebuilt parts but I have seen dozens of cheapo re-builds crap out or not work at all.

Gus

Anyone have a line on V belt pulleys? I went to a junk yard a couple weeks ago looking for one, lots of them on 4 cylinder cars but all had ribbed belts.

Same here, I had one go out and got a free replacement from autozone. The first one only lasted about 8k but maybe it's due to the 6,500rpm shifts or heat.

Screw saving a few bucks cos when I try that it bites me so I buy where I shop locally and NO questions asked..........

I have the unit from 440Source which I believe is one of Andy's products.

The unit Andy sells has a v-groove pulley - maybe he can help you with that. Otherwise, try an alternator/starter repair shop - those guys will usually have crates of pulleys from cores. Measure the shaft first 'cause its likely metric and there are two sizes.

A new one from any of the parts stores requires a $35-50 core charge.

Rock auto has them with a V groove pully

You are not alone!

if you can deal with only 60 amps then look up the part number for something like an 85 toyota pickup, it will have a v groove pulley.
rockauto is a good place to get the part number.

That`s exactly what I run and I bought it right around the corner so when it fails, I walk in and get another not wait 3-5 days..........

Anybody make the spacers to use the Moroso small block water pump or is it a fab your own deal

V belt pulleys are easy to find, several mfgs make them. If you're looking for a Denso alternator with a v belt pulley then just order one from 440Source or Mancini or anybody else who carries the kit. Or just get one from a local supplier. If you want to go to a wrecking yard then download the instructions from my website. All of the part numbers are on there.

I have run my 68 charger for 3 years with toyota alternators. I burned one up and had to buy another.

I ran an electric fuel pump, electric fan, msd, stereo, etc... and still had problems with good idle voltage. Everything would be fine until I turned on the A/C which would automatically turn on the electric fan.

At speed I was fine but not at idle.

I installed a powermaster 140 amp gm style alt. 90 at idle. Which is what I installed 4 years ago on my 67 Coronet which has a bigger mercedes electic fan and msd atomic system and fuel pump plus A/C. Never had any inkling of a voltage problem.

While the toyota alternators worked ok they were always working hard which isn't good for the life span.

Using a higher amp alternator with an easy duty cycle or load will make it last longer.

I do starters and alternators for a living (sad I know) the Toyota alternators (Denso) will out last the Delco style. Maybe you got poorly rebuilt or needed more amps then it could give. But by far the Denso will out last in it's amp range. You step a Delco up in amperage it will shorten it's life even more. The later style hair pin Denso are light years better than either, but the price reflecks it. If I was looking to put a 140 amp alternator on a hot rod and make brackets, I would use this off a John Deere, factory 140 Amp (which really charge more), much power at an idle. You can put in 1 wire regulators, use normal, GM and Ford Pulleys. If you want the advise of someone that sells thousands of starters and alternators a month, here it is

I guess I will look into those John Deere units if my gm ones go bad.

I can only guess what JD would charge for it.. Deere
doesnt have anything cheap

John Deere Number RE46608, TY6762
Denso Number 100211-6420
It comes with an 8 groove pulley, I sell for $110, $10 if you need another pulley, $20 more if you want 1 wire or 16 Volt 1 wire. Or use the part numbers to look else where.

How does that compare in physical size to the CS130 GM Unit?

And size wise to the Toyota alt

The John Deere alternator is a work horse. It’s great for street hot rods with lots of radio and power everything, will charge great at an idle. I can’t see people of saying they were burning the Toyota ones up at the track?? The Toyota if they have brackets available is a pretty good choice.

John Deere 14.04 lbs, Body Dia. 5.4”
Toyota 9.88 lbs, Body Dia. 4.5”
CS130 11.4 lbs, 5.25” (130 centimeters, it’s where it got its name)
Baby Denso 6.39 lbs, 3.75” body (little heavier in 80a mode)

The John Deere alt would be great for cruising a hot rod with many accessories. CS130 is a pretty good choice for firing your car down the strip or even street driving (sometimes have issues at idle if you try to step them up too much), lighter and economical. Baby Denso would be great for the track, I really wouldn’t recommend it for street stip. A stock one makes 35-40 amps, I have special hand windings made to make them 80 amps and would be great for the track, hand winding is expensive and it won’t have the power at the idle or durability of the others. All can be made 1 wire, or 16 volt pretty easy.

Take a look at Moroso #63815

What about the denso 100211-603 or 605

120 amp, it's a good choice

Is this a I between size case wise 60-140. I have a new reman 60 and a Mopar denso 90 when I get the new pump in will see what will fit. All I know is with the 90 my idle rpm drops a lot when the fan comes on but volts are good.

Is there a way to identify the different denso alternators?

My stock 70 Challenger alt weighs 13lbs... really not much ov a savings? I thought the Toyota ones would be lighter?

Could the 'baby' ones be that bad for the street? What if my car is running very little in terms ov options? Electric fuel pump, a stereo, heater, lights, wipers, etc... not much else.

I pay to use a website, if I were you I would just google the number on the alternator

The Baby one is like putting a big cam in your car, sure it will make power but only on the high end, at idle it won't make squat. Your car will be running off your battery until you bring it into higher RPM's. Also as you know alternators work from magnetizam. You can only magnetize something so much before it starts building heat. Putting that much power out of a small one would take a lot of magnetizam. Heat will make it less efficient (making it work even harder yet) and way more likely to burn up and fail. When your driving down the street it would be working much harder than a normal 80 amp, it will be try to make up the power your battery lost at the stop light where a normal one would have been making a charge. Great for drag cars

Damn... the idea ov losing almost 7lbs off the engine had me in fits there for a second...

Do they get smaller/lighter than the 9.88lb Toyota one?

I did but couldn't find what I was looking for. The reason I asked is that I've found plenty of alternators on 4 cylinder cars and I've found sources for the pulley. If the cars are the same physically as the early 90's 4 runner and trucks I'll buy one of them.

I'll figure it out.

All the car alternators have rib belts with the exception and some early 80's rear drive cars. You should just find the correct one that fits the brackets that Andy makes and save some time messing spacers and bolts.

Gus

Is that case size frt to back and does include the pulley. I measured the Toyota I have and got 4-7/8 frr to back and 5-3/4 with pulley.

if you are asking me, I measured the diameter of the round part of the alternator body

14433 is the denso dodge alternator at autozone with a V belt. Bout $100 and is made to fit a dodge.

14430 is the denso dodge alternator at autozone with rib belt. Bout $100 and is made to fit a dodge.

I am looking at using a 137 amp denso out of a Durango, can I get a V belt pulley for it? What vehicle is the Baby denso from? Tim

Kubota tractor, stock is 35 amp

Seems like the easy solution to me too. I have the part numbers and the cross reference numbers on my website. Wiring instructions and pictures are also there.

My problem is the depth.I
Have a new Toyota alt but if I can fit the bigger one I may go that route on the dohn Deere one you sell.

I had that issue when I had my motor plate, maybe you do too? When I was running an alternator off my motor plate I ran one of these. It's a GM alternator CS130D (D is for double internal fan, gving better cooling) they also work much better than the CS130 that many people use because it use larger bearings. Small bearings have been known to have been a issue on the CS130. I spaced out the long ear to pivot under the motor plate, keeping it out of the way. Stock 105 amp.

I have the AR kit for the denso 60 but was curious the depth on the higher amp denso

I am using a DENSO for a John Deere tractor.

120 Amps!!!

The case is slightly deeper over the car alternators, but they fit just fine!

Ryan


http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5958-alter...CFZNhfgod3GYDDg

I think I have the one slightly bigger than the baby one. IIRC it's listed at 6.7 lbs 102mm one. It's for a Suzuki Samurai (remember those). IIRC, listed at 45 amps.

Looking at the powermaster website it's only slightly heavier than the baby-ultralight at 5.75 lbs

Mine does great at idle. It was a very noticeable improvement over my stock Chrysler alternator at idle with lights on. I have don't have a electrical fan or fuel pump. No radio either.

Pulleys are cheap and I can get a car alternator guaranteed to work for $20. Plus I like fabricating, it's part of hot rodding IMO. Otherwise I'd just be a parts changer.

My 70 amp #14611 was only about $60 on ebay, the pulley can be bought from Summit Racing(made by Canton Racing iirc), or from AR-Engineering. Fits great on a motor plate.

dumb question time...so alternators meant for low RPM diesels will have no problems with high RPM motors??

Diesel alternators as a rule of thumb always have better bearing than cars and are balanced the same way. Don't eve be afraid to use them. The durango alt the one guy was using has the same bearings, good choice

The 120 amp JD and the 140 amp are the same size and use the exact same cases. I measured 5 3/8" but that is with the standard 8 groove pulley. Maybe a pic will help you decide??

Thanks for the measurement. So it's like 7\16 deeper than the Toyota one.

Is that 5 3/8" from the front of the case to the back?

I measured 5" from front to rear of case on Denso 210-0106 (Toyota 60A, V belt)

I am gunna test fit with toyo alt once I get my pump. If I have room it looks like I need the JD one.

I eyeballed mine last night. I have Andy's brackets on a RB, and it looks like I have enough clearance to the head, just not sure how close the 3 pin plug will come to #2 primary.

The small blocks are tight especially with aluminum heads

They are, in fact I had to notch the front of the head for my 70 amp unit to fit. This was on and early small block with the cast iron water pump though.

I made a bracket that mounts on the fuel bolts..
I use the 85a denso

Just got an alternator from a 97 4Runner today. The plug is different than the one Andy has for sale but I'm sure I can figure it out. Gonna call powermaster about a pulley.

The shaft measures out around .52" and the pulley is 2.4" in diameter.Powermaster was closed and nothing in their catalog seems as if it will fit. Any other sources for a pulley?

I got my pulley from a briggs Stratton dyhaitsu diesel engine for a Toro 3250 golf course mower. It's comes off a small denso alt 40amps

I fitted up the 60 amp and have a little less than a1\4in between head and back of alt.

What are the bracket options for folks running a big block with AC?

Here's the kit I used but I used a Gm powermaster alt.

http://bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/467/571



They have another bb kit also.

Jones Racing Products sells a pulley, that's who Powermaster sent me to for a V groove pulley.

97 4Runner alternator takes part #AL-3105-B-A-2.375 if you are running a DMI pulley

Jones is a killer place, super nice products and quality.

Ran it today with the 60amp toyota and all was good fan came on volts went down but came up and stabilized.Only issue I have and had is when the fan comes on the rpm drops alot no matter what i do.Happens with 90 amp denso mopar ext reg alt also.

Wondering if this drop in rpm will happen with the 120or 140 JD unit