I have an early aluminum Indy Maxx block (no webbing in the lifter valley) wet block, I bought new when this car was street driven. How far can I push it before I will start to have issues? 588 Hemi, 31 Pounds of boost. Guessing a little over 2000 HP. When is it time to upgrade to something else?

Your stuff is probably pretty close to the MAX! Holy cwap! I would imagine that the next step for you would be a Brad? From my experience with BAE, the sleeves and pistons are readily available off the shelf and you can replace these yourself. Oiling is a ton improved as well! So how fast is it on that little tire? Have you ever run 10.5W's?

Sorry to say it’s new and haven’t made a good solid pass yet. 5.45 around 100 on 7 cylinders coasting. I thought it was my first bout of tire shake, come to find I had a hole out causing it to backfire and blew the burst panel throwing all the plug wires into the blower belt and coasting the last .5 second. Hoping to sort it out for some mid 4’s this year.
A BAE sure would look pretty in there, no 10.5s yet

No one has heard of anyone having problems at higher Horse power levels with these blocks? I don't see a reason to switch if i'm not going to have issues with what I have. I called Indy last year and they really didn't answer, only said they had people making 2,000 horse with them

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Hot rodder mentality I guess, I keep looking at better blowers thinking if 31 pounds is good, 40 or 45 pounds must be better

From personal experience building NA motors with the older, less supported blocks. Over 1000 hp they started falling off for no reason. The first one I used made just under 1200 on the 3rd pull. Next few pulls power went down, and down. Thought something was hurt, but could find no evidence. Ripped it apart, re honed it, and power came up, then fell again. Finally attributed it to unsupported cylinder walls. Eventually settled in at a lower number and stayed close to it. Same experience with 3 different motors.


I have seen guys with blown motors making 1500+ with them. I don't think they're going to fly apart or anything like that. Just not as strong where it counts for power.

I have heard, but not personally seen, the later blocks that supposedly are better supported in the walls. Reality in my mind is there is only so much that can get around the rings, so if you need more power, just turn the blower harder.

The KB's are for sure the best cast option out there for strength, but you need the patience of a saint to get one. Should Noonan get an available billet water block out there, game over for every other racing mopar block maker.

I've cracked one from nitrous at around 1400hp(started leaking water into the cylinder)...Indy said they have a thin sleeve & thick sleeve version(?)and I went back with the thick sleeve one as evidently I had the other...Really not sure about the block difference but info came direct from Indy !!

What Indy meant was they have 2 different sleeve OD sizes. One they use for up to 4.440 bore and one they use to 4.500 bore. Why they would use different sleeves is beyond me. Just put the 4.500 bore sleeve in and start at 4.350. Let the customer decide the bore size and have a thicker sleeve wall at smaller bores. More cylinder stability. If I was you at that HP level I would use a cast solid block minimum. IIRC Big Time Bob with the orange procharged Dart broke a Indy water block. Might want to PM him here or on YB.

I run a -1 big wedge at 30 psi with a single turbo on a max block. So far so good.


Run what you have for now. You should be around 150 mph in the 1/8 if you make a solid pass. You will find plenty of things to replace before you get to the block.

thanks

That is the later block, mine dose not have the webbing in the lifter valley. I'm shocked it broke at 1400, I had water in the oil issues before, now I run no water. I'll check it out better

I'll try to contact him to see how hard he was pushing it, thanks

Thanks that's good news. I was thinking about leaning on it harder, a third of my class is hitting 165-175 in the 1/8. Baby steps I guess

2000 HP at 2900-3000 lbs will run 160-165 in the 1/8. That's what we ran with 2000hp in a nitrous car and went 4.30s at a touch over 164 at 2950.

Wow Monte, that's flying. I wish we had some fast Mopars around here. Mine is still a little heavy, guessing upper 3200's this year and limited to 3100 min

How much overdrive and timing are you using. Those are your cheapest power with a blown deal. Not trying to bust you chops but wouldn't you want to get it to make consistent full passes before you try to turn it up. Just my 2 cents

I'm running it 50% over with 25 degrees of timing. The blower is old and worn. I plan on running the car as is this season but the plan of any racer is not to be in the middle of the pack and work his way up the food chain. Planning the next step, if it would hold it I would buy a better blower next winter, if it won't next years upgrade would be the block instead and a blower the following year. I would prefer to sell this block before I break it.

A good blower will make a big difference.We switched to a mike janis last year. I wouldn't have believed the numbers if I had not seen them myself. But if you don't have the parts to take advantage of the power its money wasted.It all takes time and money to sort it out. Your car is awesome by the way.I have run two different brad "billet" block and have had good luck with those.

Spin a "bad" blower harder......all you make is heat, no more power