As it says, any experience with SCAT's cast version of the 4" crank. I know they're better than Eagles stuff, I'm just a little concerned with the amount of overlap between the main and rod journal with the smaller main. It'd be going in a 318 block with approximately 9.5:1, a M.P. Hydraulic Roller Cam (380 horse Crate Motor Cam) topped with EQ Magnum heads. I'd guess H.P. in the 400-450 range and more importantly similar torque numbers. Trying to get "off the fence" with some decisions here. Thanks for any useful info guys.

No actual exp with it but I've heard good regarding their rods so I'd feel comfortable with that brand of crank no matter what the overlap is. A BTT for ya

I want to follow this thread because I need to build a fresh engine for my '87 D100. I thought I was going with the LA 360 core motor that I was tearing down, but yesterday discovered two DEEP long grooves in one cylinder and I doubt that block will clean up even at .060 over since it had already been bored to .040. At least I have the 360 heads to work with and I have an original LA 318 core to explore. That could be the best solution to my needs with a 4" crank and a .030 over bore will give me 390" and should be a great cheap tow motor

For the cost difference between the Cast and the forged crank, I could buy a rebuildable 360 and use a cast crank in it and still be money ahead. Also I have a NOS(?) 1986 318 (Roller) block I'd like to use rather than bring more junk home! Been watching for second hand forged unit in the $500 range for a year or two and have seen only one on Ebay and it went for over $600.

For a 1 - 1.25hp/cubic inch engine I can't see how the cast crank wouldn't be strong enough.

At that horsepower level I'd look at reducing reciprocating mass as a better option than crank material improvement. You can easily reduce rod weight by 100 grams or more. Plus with a 4" stroke I'd want the additional strength of 7/16" rod bolts. Pistons and pins also matter.

R.

Well, you'd think the Eagle 360 cast crank would be even stronger but we've seen the pics of them broken in two without being beat on. LOL

OK, let me extend this a little, What about Ohio Crankshafts Nodular/Cast version?

I have used the SCAT in a bunch of similar builds and they are great for the $$$ unless you want to internally balance it. Eagle cast crank and SIR rods are both pure garbage. Never used Ohio crank stuff.

Hot Rod Dave, did you have to use mallory metal?
Thanks for the responses guys!

I have a Scat Cast Crank and whole rotating assembly in my 416 (340 block). I'm probably at 450hp or so. Ported E-brock heads, 9.7:1 compression, TTI headers, M1 single plane, XE274 solid cam.

I've got about 20,000 miles on it. I cruise at down the highway at 3800-4000 rpm. I go out the road course once a year and flog it all day long. Hit about 6200 rpm at end of straights.

Brian at IMM said it was fine to 500hp. And he said he's check the balancing and it's fine. So I'm running a SCAT factory internally balanced kit. All's fine here.

I internally balanced one and it needed mallory and it ended up I could have bought a steel crank about the same price. External balance and no mallory needed even with stock rods.

Thanks again guys! Autoxcuda, that is the "experience" I was hoping for. That prebalanced kit looks pretty attractive too. My bobweight should be even less than your 340 stuff.

I bought my SCAT kit from www.immengines.com (Brian)

When I get ready to pull the trigger I'll give him a call. Do you know if he checks out all the kits he sells?

I think so. Just call him and leave a message.