I know when I tube the lifter galleys on my small blocks I double and triple check to make sure I redrilled all the needed oil passages and followed the instructions to a T. To make sure I dig out my old mopar manuals just to double-check I didn't forget something.

Is there any way to tell if the coating delaminated?

If it wadded up it only takes a millisecond at speed for the crank to grab the bearing and just a few more to go boom.

Kevin

Well to start with the eagle crank had bad machining on the journals and it showed on the previous build when torn down. The journals were wavie. So my machinest turned all journals and checked rods for out of round. I left that up to him as he has built many circle track engines and has a good rep. He mic'ed the torqued rods and journals and gave me the results which were .00225. I remeasured 90 degrees to parting line on rods and measured journals and found the same measure upon assembly. I used a dial bore gauge and mic. I figured good enough.

Good practice to measure rods in 3 places to ensure they are not out of round after you crush the bearing. Also, rod can be perfectly round but big and NOT crush bearing enough. Will measure right at parting line but not sides. Same if rod is small and has too much crush.

Dave understand that at just about 70 psi the pump
is blowing off on the by-pass.. thats not flow to
the engine...all the pumps I have checked the by-pass
on blew of real close to 70 psi + or - a small amount..
so all that extra pressure you have will hurt the flow

I see. Mygoal was to have 60-70psi hot at rpm but, It didn't turn out that way.

OK. Well I gave all my parts to a machines and had faith he knew what he was doing. He gave me the ok everything is good and I took the parts home and measured bearing clearance for piece of mind and assembled. The guy has a good rep for machining and engine building. I guess ya really don't what quality of work your getting til ya have a failure.

I know what ya mean.. I've been there... my one engine didnt
make a 1/8 mile before it let go... luckily it didnt take out
a ton of stuff.. a lifter let go.. that took out 1 head, a
couple of pistons and a cyl bore... a sleeve on the block
with a new head were the big parts.. that was a quick $3500
for that

You dont pick an oil based on the winter grade number unless you are running in sub freezing temps.
Viscosity is based on oil temp.
His oil acted like a 50 grade oil when at operating temp.
That seems heavy for his clearance.
I don't use Gibbs so I can't say why they picked a 50 grade oil. I would have used a quality 30 grade.
The oil timing is off on these engines. At the speed the OP is turning he needs a full groove bearing to get oil to the rods on time, or close to it.
The only fixes for high RPM (over 8k) are have a crank drilled to the correct oil timing, but I have never had it done.
Or, you have to bring the oil to the crank in a different place to correct the timing.
And that is a whole nother thread.

im not going to do that but how do you know where to put the holes in the crank?

ok, so let me get this part cleared up. with bearing clearance at .003 on main and rod with full groove mains what would you suggest for oil viscosity in this combo?

Forget that crap... SB mopars have been turning HIGH
rpms for YEARS with normal cranks.. the most I ever
did on the crank was elongate the oil hole some.. you
can do that with a file or have the crank grinder do it
(they know what I'm saying on that).. but its just the
slot across the oil hole.. as I said before.. I have been
9600 rpm and its still together.. and I sure dont do anything
magic

You have to have it done when the crank is made. I heard that one from a known Comp guy who did PST and dabbled in PS. I didn't do mine that way. But I'm not about to go into the detail of how I fixed mine because it would take an hour to type. If you really want to know, PM me and I'll do it that way.

Mr. Pbody would be one of the only guys I know that can turn a SBM that tight on regular oil timing. Very few guys do it in the first place. Even fewer do it with any level of success.

As for oil, I only know one brand. I wouldn't want to tell you a grade for any other oil. Like I said, there is more to oil than base stocks. It's like how they grade an oil. It can pass as a 50, but it might test on the high side of the grade and almost be a 60. You can't tell the difference, but the engine can. So it is very brand specific.

I may spend some time tomorrow and see if I can find the actual specs of the oil you used. If I can find that, I can see where they blend the oil as far as grade goes.

You can't correct the oil timing with file. And the oil timing is off, by a mile. All you need to do is stand a sbc next to a sbm. Even Ray Charles can see the timing is off. And you need the cranks too.

OK . in the past combos I used 20/50 brad Penn,valvoline and 15/50 amsoil with .002 on mains and rods and never had an issue.

I'm not trying to correct anything.. it just give
it more area for the oil once its out of the hole
to hold oil.. I bought a old PS truck crank and that
is what was done to it.. then I had another turned
down and they did it for me

Not that I know anything but this is what I was thinking reading through this thread, I'd reject the idea that it was too tight, too thick oil, etc. I'd think it was too out of round, was starved for oil, or simply didn't have .002 clearance...

I wouldn't want a 50 weight in an engine with .002 clearance, but people put 50 weight in tight engines all the time. Or engines that they have no idea what the clearances are, factory stuff, etc. I've put 50 weight in old worn out oil burners, who knows what the clearances were, but I wound them up tight and it was never an issue. Maybe they were just loose. But if 50 weight with .002 clearance was an issue that was going to grenade a lot of engines we'd be hearing about it a lot more often...

How comon is it that a bearing/oiling isue tries to pul the pin out of a piston?

I cant say that both would even be related .. if the
pin doesnt get oil they tend to seize the piston and
then end up spinning a bearing

I'm thinking after the rod bolts broke the crank hit the rod and caused the damage to the piston. I don't think the carnage started with the wrist pin.