Considering converting the drive-line parking brake setup on my 60 Dodge D100 to a later style backing plate setup.

Anyone done this conversion?

Anyone know if the later backing plate mounting pattern matches/fits the earlier axle tube pattern?

Other considerations?

Thanks much!

I'd swap out the entire rear axle assembly. The backing plates might interchange great, but you still have to deal with the tapered axles & hubs, and then deal with the narrow old brake shoes.

I may be biased though, I'll dump the tapered axles and hubs for any excuse I can find. Too many modern choices out there to deal with those hubs every time you want to check the brakes. Gene

Agreed.

I'd look for a 1965-and-up rear. You can keep your original center chunk. It shouldn't be too hard to mate the original emergency brake cable with the cables from the axles.

As far as the backing plates go, I believe they will swap. But those tapered axles...

R.

I agree with Gene and R 100%. If you don't find soemthing up there I have a few 65-71 3/4 ton axles in various ratios.

Different bolt pattern on the backing plates (early on left in pic below), some folks over on the FL forum have redrilled the holes but not worth it IMHO. Change the whole rear end.

There are differences in the earlier center section as compared to later, I just went through this on a 61 Dodge D100 and you CANNOT use a later section in an earlier rear! It would be MUCH easier as mentioned above to change out the entire rear end assembly.

HUH? Someone else have a comment on this?

R.

Differences in early/late are the thrust block width in non-SG units and some early units that appear to be 8 3/4" are actually 8 1/4" with an 11-bolt housing. 8 3/4" are all 10-bolt.

So if it's a real 8 3/4, the only obstacle is the thrust block. Otherwise swap away.

R.

One of these days I will be swapping the the rear end out in my '63 for a one from a '66 but, I really like my trans mounted driveline brake. Works great and can't see a reason to disable it unless going to a different trans

I love your truck.

There is no reason to give up your driveline brake if you don't want to. The later rear end is a bolt-in swap. You just either disconnect and remove the emergency brake cables from the rear brakes or else you tie them up out of the way with a piece of baling wire. I think I took mine out because they were rusted beyond recognition.

R.

Thanks, guys. I'm swapping out the NP435 truck 4-speed for a 727 auto, so the drive line parking brake will have to go away. I'm disabled from a stroke and getting older to boot so I can't pump a clutch pedal so easy any more. I also want to make it more "driver-friendly" for the wife. I can deal with the tapered axles issue.

I've had this ol' girl since my dad bought for me in 1975 when I needed a work truck. I'm used to the tapered axles. Besides, I don't drive it so much that I'll have to do the brakes again after I rebuild them on reassembly this time.

Ultimately, I'd like to add p/s and front discs so I'll probably just install Johnny Law's new IFS.

Thanks again for your input and ideas!

The reality is, most guys that are using 727s seldom ever use an e-brake, unless they have to go through an inspection that requires it to function. Even with new parts, if an e-brake is not regularly used, after a couple of years, they don't work because the cable have frozen up. You can usually create enough force with a foot pedal to activate them, but the return springs on the cable inside the drum won't have enough pressure to push the cable back and they probably won't release.

I've had my automatic equipped Dakota for 4 years, in 4 years of use, I don't ever remember using the e-brake. I would be afraid that if I used it now, the e-brake would never release again.

Unless you really feel a need, or are required to have a functioning e-brake, and you are installing an automatic, an e-brake wouldn't be a very high priority to me, at least in my world. Gene

Find a motorhome transmission. It uses the drum on the back of the transmission.

R.