Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: robertop]
#2013836
02/17/16 11:53 AM
02/17/16 11:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125
A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125
A Banana Republic near you.
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Piece of cake, after you remove the driveshaft.
Make sure to get the booted seal and get a piece of PVC pipe that touches the outer steel ring to put it back in.
running up my post count some more .
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: robertop]
#2014054
02/17/16 04:45 PM
02/17/16 04:45 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
PurpleBeeper
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
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I made my "drift" for replacing my A-833 rear seal using a large 1/2" bolt, a big washer (same size as metal of rear seal) and smaller washers on either side of the big one + a nut. Wipe a little grease on the seal/tail shaft hole, line it up and drive it in with a hammer (2-3 hits will do it, doesn't need to be all that hard).
WRONG - SORRY! SEE MY LATER POST
Last edited by PurpleBeeper; 02/25/16 05:42 PM.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#2015514
02/19/16 04:37 PM
02/19/16 04:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125
A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125
A Banana Republic near you.
|
I made my "drift" for replacing my A-833 rear seal using a large 1/2" bolt, a big washer (same size as metal of rear seal) and smaller washers on either side of the big one + a nut. Wipe a little grease on the seal/tail shaft hole, line it up and drive it in with a hammer (2-3 hits will do it, doesn't need to be all that hard). You aren't replacing a BOOTED seal, like the stock factory seal, with that setup ... without crushing the outer boot that sticks about an inch past the metal ring.
running up my post count some more .
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: robertop]
#2015644
02/19/16 08:08 PM
02/19/16 08:08 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,926
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,926
Ontario, Canada
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Originally Posted By PurpleBeeper
I made my "drift" for replacing my A-833 rear seal using a large 1/2" bolt, a big washer (same size as metal of rear seal) and smaller washers on either side of the big one + a nut. Wipe a little grease on the seal/tail shaft hole, line it up and drive it in with a hammer (2-3 hits will do it, doesn't need to be all that hard).
You aren't replacing a BOOTED seal, like the stock factory seal, with that setup ... without crushing the outer boot that sticks about an inch past the metal ring. I was thinking that too! It amazes me the number of people on this site that don't subscribe to the KISS principle. Post that you have a mouse problem in your shop and someone will suggest you make billet aluminum mousetraps !!
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: JohnRR]
#2019596
02/25/16 05:42 PM
02/25/16 05:42 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
PurpleBeeper
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
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I made my "drift" for replacing my A-833 rear seal using a large 1/2" bolt, a big washer (same size as metal of rear seal) and smaller washers on either side of the big one + a nut. Wipe a little grease on the seal/tail shaft hole, line it up and drive it in with a hammer (2-3 hits will do it, doesn't need to be all that hard). You aren't replacing a BOOTED seal, like the stock factory seal, with that setup ... without crushing the outer boot that sticks about an inch past the metal ring. Oh shiznit, you guys are right... wrong "drift". That's the one I used for my axle bearing races. For the rear seal on a A-833 I used a 2-1/2" or 3" pipe nipple with a cap on it as my drift. I guess PVC would work too. My bad.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: Stanton]
#2019599
02/25/16 05:46 PM
02/25/16 05:46 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,854
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,854
Kirkland, Washington
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Originally Posted By PurpleBeeper
I made my "drift" for replacing my A-833 rear seal using a large 1/2" bolt, a big washer (same size as metal of rear seal) and smaller washers on either side of the big one + a nut. Wipe a little grease on the seal/tail shaft hole, line it up and drive it in with a hammer (2-3 hits will do it, doesn't need to be all that hard).
You aren't replacing a BOOTED seal, like the stock factory seal, with that setup ... without crushing the outer boot that sticks about an inch past the metal ring. I was thinking that too! It amazes me the number of people on this site that don't subscribe to the KISS principle. Post that you have a mouse problem in your shop and someone will suggest you make billet aluminum mousetraps !! But the trailer-queen mouse trap people will beat a path to your door!
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Re: A833 rear seal replacement
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2019734
02/25/16 08:44 PM
02/25/16 08:44 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,926
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,926
Ontario, Canada
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But the trailer-queen mouse trap people will beat a path to your door! No sh!t !! I can't believe the amount of billet crap out there and most of it looks downright UGLY. A lot of the billet users could probably build a damn nice second car with what they've spent on billet crap.
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