If the inner fenders have all the factory under coating on them it will save more than ten lbs. and if the car is rigid enough cut them off. its a start. how about bumper brackets and bumpers?

There's plenty of other places to save additional weight if you haven't already been into it - look at behind the kick panels, tops of the rockers under the sill plate, inner quarter panels, drilling holes in the rad support, on and on. I've got a road runner here built out of Arlen V's shop and they treated sheet metal contours like cut here lines. They even trimmed extra metal off the back of the dash frame and cut out all but the cover of the ash tray and riveted it in place. Cowl is smoothed (no vent) and the underside of the cowl is gone. Keep after it an ounce at a time and it'll add up for you eventually.

Under coating is long gone, I still have steel bumpers, front brackets have been thinned alot

Get your self a good spot weld cutter and some spare cutter's and have at it, I took the inner panels out of my Dart and it made it a lot easier to work on and lost some weight on the front too, well worth the time and effort in my opinion, just make sure you tie the upper shock mounts to the down bar's if you haven't already.

I haven't touched any of that. Santa did bring a fiberglass dash. You have some great suggestions. I have been nerves about chopping up the inner quarters, rockers and kick panel, do you guys remove all of it? I would love to see some pics of what people have done.

That's great to hear, It's tied to the front bars but will support it better being I ran the front bars inside the wheel wells

All your bolts cut to length?

Do people cut out the whole inner structure on the rear quarters?

here ya go ..
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...nd-it-cost.html

I wouldnt cut anything in the rear of the car... YET..
pull as much as you can off the front end first... the
weight on the rear might be needed for traction

Thank You, That will keep me busy for a while

Mr. P body has a good point. My car had the outside structure of the inner quarters left but the whole center was cut out and the back windows bolted in place. That way it still had some structural strength since it tied the door jamb back to the package tray, and down to the rocker. It also left places to attach the interior panel and hide it all.

The problem with my car, is that they did all that to save weight, then stick welded an old bar in it that weighed about as much as I do. I guess that's the way things were in the 70s.

Ant pic's of this I'm in the process of doing this to my e-body, how's it tied to the upper shock mount?

They are called Blair Spot Weld Cutters.. you can
buy all the parts needed to do it.. the mandrel with
spring loaded tip, the cutters.. which come in different
diameters... and you can buy the cutters single sided or
double sided.. I always use the double sided... mainly
a 5/16" diameter will work for most spot welds.. but you
might pick up a few 3/8" cutters... all you do is center
punch each spot weld then put the spring loaded tip in
the center punch divot and slowly spin the cutter while
loading up the tip.. you will get the feel for it.. you
can get the whole thing in tool supply places, maybe
Fastenal has them.. I get them from a place local to me

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...sl_7g20do305z_e

Are you asking how it's tied with the inner fender wells in place? I can snap some pics for you tomorrow

Yes ...Thax you.

Cut them and don` t look back........ WAY easier !

Very nice, I would love to see a closer pic of your radiator support and how you tied in the shock mount to the cage if you have one

Save some money and go to harbor freight and grab a handful of spot weld cutters instead. I think they're 4 bucks each. I took advice to buy the best at first, but after those cutters wore out I went with the ones from HF and they work just as good, and are also double-sided. FWIW I cut a lot of spot welds, moving sheetmetal from a complete car back to the cut-up race car.

10 lbs. is undetectable.