Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Thumperdart]
#2005909
02/05/16 02:22 AM
02/05/16 02:22 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,227 aZLiViN
J_BODY
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I bought this pos and muddled through the set up on three sets of 8.75 gears..... shoot me an address and I'll send it your way. From my memory of using it.... I'm not sure this is a threat, or a promise. http://www.proformparts.com/product-exec...category_id/159...at least at work we still have all the dummy bearings etc for the D60 stuff.
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Thumperdart]
#2005912
02/05/16 02:28 AM
02/05/16 02:28 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890 North Alabama
Monte_Smith
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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You DON'T need high tech tools to do this. Aftermarket gears have the depth measurement marked on them. This number is the measured distance from the machined surface of the pinion gear head, to the centerline of the ring gear. Common sense tells you that the ring gear centerline, is also at the parting line of the caps. So my "trick" pinion setting tool is a precision straight edge and a set of dial calipers. Lay the straight edge across the carrier, place dial caliper on top of straight edge.....roll the caliper until the "tail" contacts top of pinion gear. Read that number, subtract width of straight edge(mine is exactly 1") and there you have it. This and a set of honed bearings is ALL you need.
Now, I have had people tell me the cap parting line is not always "true" center of ring gear, because of casting variance. Ok, I have never seen this to be true, but lets say it is. You can STILL use the straight edge method. It will be really close and you are going to put it together, check the pattern and make adjustments anyway, so what does it matter. This is NO different than guessing at a shim pack you have and checking it, although this will likely be closer from jump, unless you get lucky on the guess.
If you just WANT to buy a tool, but not break the bank. Try the Ratech tool. They are cheap, about 30 bucks and actually work. Look it up. Little different approach, but they work
Last edited by Monte_Smith; 02/05/16 02:33 AM.
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: J_BODY]
#2005913
02/05/16 02:36 AM
02/05/16 02:36 AM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
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I bought this pos and muddled through the set up on three sets of 8.75 gears..... shoot me an address and I'll send it your way. From my memory of using it.... I'm not sure this is a threat, or a promise. http://www.proformparts.com/product-exec...category_id/159...at least at work we still have all the dummy bearings etc for the D60 stuff. Why don`t you like or need it?
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#2005921
02/05/16 02:59 AM
02/05/16 02:59 AM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
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You DON'T need high tech tools to do this. Aftermarket gears have the depth measurement marked on them. This number is the measured distance from the machined surface of the pinion gear head, to the centerline of the ring gear. Common sense tells you that the ring gear centerline, is also at the parting line of the caps. So my "trick" pinion setting tool is a precision straight edge and a set of dial calipers. Lay the straight edge across the carrier, place dial caliper on top of straight edge.....roll the caliper until the "tail" contacts top of pinion gear. Read that number, subtract width of straight edge(mine is exactly 1") and there you have it. This and a set of honed bearings is ALL you need.
Now, I have had people tell me the cap parting line is not always "true" center of ring gear, because of casting variance. Ok, I have never seen this to be true, but lets say it is. You can STILL use the straight edge method. It will be really close and you are going to put it together, check the pattern and make adjustments anyway, so what does it matter. This is NO different than guessing at a shim pack you have and checking it, although this will likely be closer from jump, unless you get lucky on the guess.
If you just WANT to buy a tool, but not break the bank. Try the Ratech tool. They are cheap, about 30 bucks and actually work. Look it up. Little different approach, but they work Ya Monte, a gentleman on here told me the parting line was how he does em and it`s good enuff for me but having the trick tools probably can`t hurt...........
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#2005929
02/05/16 03:14 AM
02/05/16 03:14 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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You DON'T need high tech tools to do this. Aftermarket gears have the depth measurement marked on them. This number is the measured distance from the machined surface of the pinion gear head, to the centerline of the ring gear. Common sense tells you that the ring gear centerline, is also at the parting line of the caps. So my "trick" pinion setting tool is a precision straight edge and a set of dial calipers. Lay the straight edge across the carrier, place dial caliper on top of straight edge.....roll the caliper until the "tail" contacts top of pinion gear. Read that number, subtract width of straight edge(mine is exactly 1") and there you have it. This and a set of honed bearings is ALL you need.
Now, I have had people tell me the cap parting line is not always "true" center of ring gear, because of casting variance. Ok, I have never seen this to be true, but lets say it is. You can STILL use the straight edge method. It will be really close and you are going to put it together, check the pattern and make adjustments anyway, so what does it matter. This is NO different than guessing at a shim pack you have and checking it, although this will likely be closer from jump, unless you get lucky on the guess. Dom, What Monte describes here is EXACTLY what I was trying to describe on the phone.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Thumperdart]
#2006106
02/05/16 03:09 PM
02/05/16 03:09 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 12,319 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 12,319
Fulton County, PA
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As per Richmond's instructions - Shim thicknesses to start with, Dana’s .035, 8-3/4 x 1-3/4 pin, .090, 8-3/4 x 1-7/8 pin, .020, These have worked for me in the past to get me started, MOST of the time.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: dvw]
#2006109
02/05/16 03:14 PM
02/05/16 03:14 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910 Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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I used to use the parting line method. The line was not always in the middle but easy to compensate for. Just measure the caps and the housing. Add the results and split the difference. Add or subtract the result of the split to the carrier. Like everyone has said you need to read the pattern anyway so now I just start with the old shim. Doug This is quite correct,when using the parting line first measure the depth of the bearing seat(apex of the radius of half the bore) then devide the total radius by 1/2.ie: a Dana bearing race measures 3.813 devided by 2 equals 1.9065,if the housing depth measures 1.881 ,this tells us the housing part line surface is machines .025 below the true bearing centerline and we must add .025 to correct our pinion depth. We have and use all the fancy tools,but in the end we do what ever to obtain the best pattern and clearance which is the most important thing.
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#2006115
02/05/16 03:25 PM
02/05/16 03:25 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
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Thankxxx guys...........Cass, was going to call you and see what you recommended as a starting shim since these are your cases and a new design if it mattered............ Will be ordering 35 spline axles next week. Do you carry lug nuts and washers?
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Thumperdart]
#2006125
02/05/16 03:32 PM
02/05/16 03:32 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,173 CT
GTX MATT
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master
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Posts: 5,173
CT
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Thumper RA Tech sells pinion depth checkers that are less than 300 bucks, they sit between on the pinion head and you measure against the carrier bores a certain way to check depth, using the depth indicator on a pair of veneer calipers. I just bought one to use on my 8 3/4. I'm sure it won't be perfect, but will give you a good start, then adjust based on the pattern. People with the high dollar mics say they often need to adjust based on the pattern anyway, as the depth from the manufacturer isn't quite perfect. You can buy the tool on summit and they're application specific. Reviews on them have been pretty good. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10007/overview/ You said $300 bucks that thing`s 25 and change and if it helps, it may be a new tool in my box......... Sorry Thump it was a typo, I meant $30. I set my last one up guessing and checking, which gets a little annoying to keep setting the backlash precisely the same. I figured this should ball park me closer to start like I said. Especially doing it for the first time, it gets a little fuzzy with depth vs backlash and what it does to the pattern when you start really far off.
Last edited by GTX MATT; 02/05/16 03:38 PM.
Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: Thumperdart]
#2006139
02/05/16 03:57 PM
02/05/16 03:57 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,173 CT
GTX MATT
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master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,173
CT
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No biggie, I`m going to vatozone soon and will get a bearing, hone it and start checking............ This is the hardest part of the job. What's everyone using for backlash? IIRC my last Richmond set called for .006-.010, I set it up at .010, they were smooth but they hummed over 55 (4.56s). I set them up loose hoping they wouldn't break easy, but I broke them anyway, so I think I'm going to try the tight side this time.
Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#2006140
02/05/16 03:59 PM
02/05/16 03:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
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OP
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Unfortunately, I don't carry lug nuts. No problem I`ll get em locally. GTXMatt, Cass suggested .007 so I`ll shoot for that which apparently meshes better to avoid breakage..........
Last edited by Thumperdart; 02/05/16 04:00 PM.
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: SETTING PINION DEPTH............
[Re: 451Mopar]
#2006150
02/05/16 04:28 PM
02/05/16 04:28 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 12,319 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 12,319
Fulton County, PA
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As mentioned, the Ratech gauge works great http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10007/overview/The setup bearings will get you close, but set the shims on the loose side because the actual pressed on bearing will expand slightly from the press fit. The clamshell type bearing remover will allow you remove the bearings without damage if you need to change the shims. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIFFERENTIAL-BEA...r-/251544641906If you need a case spreader for a Dana 60 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential-Housing-Case-Spreader-Dana-30-80-Housings-New-/351606418157?hash=item51dd602aed:g:vDMAAOSwCQNWcf1u&item=351606418157&vxp=mtr I have that tool and it works great for side bearings. On the pinion bearings, I prefer to polish the journals on the pinion to get the fit I prefer; light enough that I can get the bearing on and off without damaging it. Light enough on the front bearing that it will go in and out with a light mallet. Then you're able to set it up with the bearings you're going to use. I find the bearing fit on new pinions to be all over the place depending on who made them. Some just need the coating polished off, others require more work for an acceptable fit. Tolerances seem to be all over the place on these parts these days.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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