I've swapped my automatic for an 833 O.D. I bought a universal clutch pedal, master cylinder, and slave cylinder kit from Speedway Motors.
I didn't like it so I went to pick and pull to find factory pedals and linkage. couldn't find any for older 833 setup but I did find a '90 with hydraulic clutch and NV2500 tranny. I bought the pedals and master cylinder. was going to buy the NV2500 but have heard It's not a good tranny. my next step is to use the hydraulic pedal setup with the 833 and the speedway motors slave cylinder. I'm worried about how hard it will be to push the pedal without an over-center spring. Is a diaphragm clutch easier than the 3 finger ? How far should the outer end of the clutch fork move to work properly ? Any other ideas I should consider ?

If you plan on beating on it, the NV2500 is a bit weaker then the old 833, but then so is the aluminum case 833 OD. If you intend on driving it somewhat normal, the NV2500 should work out OK if its in decent shape when you put it in. If big power with high rpm clutch dumps and super power shifts are in the plans, you might want to skip even the 833 OD and get the straight 833, or spring the big bucks and but a new 833 OD from one of the 4 speed dealers.

I have the light duty 5 speed (ax15?) in my 48 coupe with a 3.9 and I do a lot of "spirited" starts and shifting (the 5 speed shifter sucks for power shifting). This unit has been together for 4 summers, and the trans is still in about the same condition it was in before I installed it in my car (which was less the perfect).

I'm using the Dakota hydraulic pedal set up in mine. The hydraulic set up basically replaces the mechanical linkage. The travel of the clutch fork is nearly the same with the hydraulic as it was with the mechanical set ups, and is a lot easier to deal with. I'm not using a heavy duty pressure plate, but the pedal effort with the hydraulic clutch sure seems to be a lot easier then the old mechanical setups used to be. My old knee likes that.

I do wonder if the release of the hydraulic setup is ever so slightly slower then the mechanical setup was, but I don't seem to have any problems doing burnouts and getting rubber between gears, so I guess it isn't too bad. gene

the shifter on the 2500 is a gold nugget. the a535 will work for a cruzer and not a bruzer. very light duty.

the 91 bell is another gold nugget as it has bolt holes for the 833/A535 and the granny 4 speed NP435

FYI..NV4500 has it own hydro bell and will not fit other transmissions.

the hydro clutch bell/pedal/MC adaptor are very hard to find and are well worth the effort to pull/save them.

this will let you use all stock dodge pieces for a bolt in conversion.

FYI..if you don't use the MC adaptor.. I will pay you to get it for me. this is the last piece I need for my 2nd conversion. I would take the hydro bell also.

Thanks for the reply's. that helps a lot
going back to junk yard this weekend

if you grab the a535 5 speed be sure to get the shifter with it.

you can find the 5 speed with out a shifter but you cant find anyone that will sell a shifter off of a 5 speed if they have it.

last a535 I ran up on was 800$ in the JY with no shifter.

they do make a nice 5 speed in a hot rod or cruzer type ride that you would not bang on. a 318 will explode one if you hammer it to hard.

I have a 82 W350 with mech clutch linkage and want to use a 88 cab with a hydro clutch.

I need the pedal/MC adaptor to complete mine.

I snag the bell housing if I had the chance.

another option is the newer DAK 5 speeds which are ax-15 5 speeds

the v-6 bell/flywheel work on a 318 for hydro clutch BUT a ax-15 bell has 9 bolts on a horseshoe pattern on the inside of the bell so they are ax-15 only bells.

the ax-15 will take more abuse than a a535 unit and much cheaper more plentiful.

you can get the 4cyl ax-15 trans and swap on the v-6 ax-15 bell

FYI..gear ratios and rpm spreds are all different for the AX-15 between 4cyl/v-6/I-6 so some may not be geared in the direction you want.

I've gotten back around to working on my truck again. I have the '91 hydraulic set up installed with the a833 gear box. all seams good. I had to drill and tap holes in the bell housing to accept the 833. bell housing was pre center drilled from the factory. I discovered that the flywheel is a larger diameter than on the older setup. this causes my starter to sit out farther and interferes with my left header. has anyone else experienced this problem and how did you fix it ?

yes, on my 85 chassis going to hydro bell NV4500, it caused starter issues with the #7 tube on the hedman 79080 headers. could not fit old or mini starter.

I used hedman 79170 4x4 headers 72-93 D150 2x or 4x4 chassis. this moved #7 tube to fit a mini starter or the low torque(short) stock LA starter on the hydro bell.

I will have another look at my 88 d100 v-6 hydro bell that had the a535 5 speed to see if I need to tap those bolt holes.

also look to see if that bell has the same starter issues with the 2x headers. I fast mock up of junk in the shed should tell the tale.