I remember seeing a post about aligning "indexing" your crank to your converter to eliminate converter and thrust bearing wear by using offset dowel pins. Anyone know how to do this or have a link to an article? Thanks

You should use your case(empty) so you can
mount the case on the engine then use a dial
indicator on the crank then have it ride on
the pump opening.. I believe .013 is the max
run out but I try to get them within about .004

how common of a problem is this? ive never had an issue even with custom cranks and block mods.

never had this issue myself but have seen some converter snouts that had a strange/heavy wear pattern from the pump bushing and wondered if misalignment was the cause.

It is the same idea as aligning a scatter shield to the crankshaft. I think the Mopar Performance books shows how to do it using a bare tranny case. I've never done it but it is a simple operation if you have the correct tools. (of course, everything is simple if you have the correct tool!)

What I'm going to say will be obvious to the veterans, but just to be sure:
Unfortunately, at times people have neglected to say "your original case", as opposed to your spare. If the oddity is in the block this won't matter, but unless you're sure use the actual parts you will assemble, and make a written record of what you found, what parts were used (I use brand, part number, and a picture), what you did, and how it came out. This pair (block and case) are now "mated"; expect to do it over when you take either one out of service.
In addition to the dial indicator reading, I look for any signs of an irregular casting. Since castings vary somewhat due to production changes, core shift, and individual mold pours, an empty, clean block should be examined carefully for casting accuracy before spending any money. Irregularly cast blocks are more likely to lack concentricity between the cast surface and a machined surface or hole, where the opening is not centered in the boss, the wall is thicker on one side by more than 1∕64”, &c. These tell-tale holes include tappet bores, head bolts, distributor opening, pushrod reliefs, main bearing cap bolts, and oil pan bolts in the block’s pan rails.

The dowels are very useful, but in my experience count on spending time finding the best position - they can be "clocked" with a big screwdriver (even when in place, you may need an assistant for each dowel) to both change the amount of eccentricity (away from the correct location) and the direction of movement.

Don't wait for something to fail. If the visual aren't perfect, or there has been symptoms, fix it while it's still cheap to do so.

I do this with every new/used block I/m gonna run.. I
dont see much run out on autos but its still more than
I like so I mess with it... sticks bell housings for some
reason tend to be more out of spec.. the first stick car
I built was like .035 out of wack... in a stick car its
more important than a auto.. in a auto you tend to get a
seal leak at the pump if its bad enough and after time it
will leak... its a PITA to empty the case your gonna use
if its ready to go.. but on a first build its advised (by
first build I mean the first time the engine and trans will
be run together).... can you maybe get away with a auto...
maybe... thats up to you... a stick... I would do it with
EVERY different bell housing that gets bolted on

If you are going to do this job then do yourself a big favor and buy the dowels from Robb:

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

His stuff is the only design that works really slick.

His set up is very slick... back when I started doing it
I would steak them with a pointed punch after I was done..
I'm still doing it that way

And they are the correct size, not some fit's all size from Lakewood.
Gus

I used my bell housing, and bought indexing dowel pins. I got mineeasily within that 4.0-4.5 thou mark. Take your time and its really quite simple.

I did it on a powerglide using an ultrabell , what a nightmare it was ... on top of that we used the lakewood dowels , this was before RobbMC dowels.

The factory used a flexplate for a reason on automatics, unlike 4 speeds where the bellhousing bearing retainer hole is machined when the crank line of the block is machined.

I got a real education doing this for my quicktime r5 bells. Turns out everyoNE of the aftermarket bells are wrong. Mopar is not .500". Industry bores holes to .501-502". Look at the drawings. My first bells came that way. New one's are .497-498" for the .496" mopar dowel. The aftermarket says so what. Well if you don't mind being. .004" low to start ok. The dowel not the clamping of the bolts maintains center.

There is a fix determine the amount that of offset and figure the .004" into it. Then buy .500" dowels from Robbmc. Take dowel and put in drill or lathe. Emory cloth will quickly cuto the engine side to .496". Hopefully my raising Cain will get the aftermarket to correct their drawings. Trust me they are hard headed and know everything.