Can anyone give me a breakdown of the modifications needed to fit a 318 or 360 into a '47 pickup, using as much of the factory frame, steering and suspension as possible?

How different are the bellhousing bolt patterns from the original bellhousing to an LA engine - is there a chance that we could use the original 3 speed?

Just looking for the most inexpensive way to do the swap.

Thanks.

The bellhousing won't bolt to an LA, directly, and I don't know if anyone made an adapter to do this. However, a three speed from that era ought to have the same bolt pattern (to the bell) as later three speeds. So you may be able to use an LA bellhousing to bolt the trans up. You'd have to do some measuring or find someone with an LA bell for fitment.

Good to know! Do you know if the original tranny shaft will work with an LA clutch?

I have a 51 I6 w/ 3 speed. It would be nice to just swap the engine and roll, but the trans and bellhousing look different. If you are going to use a magnum it might just be easier to use the matching 5 speed. This will get rid of a bunch of that bulky linkage and you can use a hydro clutch. My problem is the I6 runs so nice I almost hate to yank it.

Not sure if you are asking if the input shaft on the three speed will fit an LA clutch disc, I dunno but you can run the three speed disc inside an LA pressure plate if need be. Or if you are asking if the clutch linkage will bolt up to the LA bell housing, again, I dunno. Never had a 47 truck, just a 38 and 40 pass cars. But looking at the setup in online pictures it appears you will have to do some mods.

Thanks guys.

I'll take a shot at this as well. My 47 has no original frame, but the standard motor and trans mounting for the 30s through the late 50 Dodge trucks were to have a single front mount under the front crank pulley, attached to a crossmember and a mount on each side of the bellhousing. The trans hung out in the breeze.

The flathead 4 or flathead 6 were the standard motors available, and there was a long and a short version of the 6. The firewalls were either flat on the top 3/4 or there was a vertical setback in the center to accommodate the width of the flathead 6.

The original frames were pretty consistent. Since the available motors were all in line straight and upright standing motors, the steering box bolted to the frame and sat about the center of the driver side of the motor. (Note most export trucks had the steering column, steering box and master cylinder all mounted on the right side of the motor as sitting in the seat, and USA trucks have the column, steering box, and master cylinder on the left side of the motor.) There were brackets that extended from each side of the frame rails towards the bellhousing and the bell was bolted to those brackets. The master cylinder mounted to driver side bell bracket.

Installing a modern motor & trans present problems in 3 basic areas.
1) Modern motors & trans are mounted with 2 front mounts and one mount at the rear of the trans. The original frame only has a center front mount. Mounts need to be made so the modern motor can be mounted on the frame rails on each side. The center mount needs to be removed, but leave the crossmember under intact.
2) The modern trans bell has no provisions for the original bell mounts. Consequently, the original brackets may be in the way of mounting the modern trans. Removing the original brackets may require a different method to mount the master cylinder. Also, the modern trans mounts with a single mount at the rear of the trans, there is no crossmember at that point to use for the rear trans mount. A crossmember and trans mount will need to be made.
3) The original position of the steering box and its attached column interferes with mounting a modern motor centered in the car. Often the modern motor & trans can be mounted offset towards the passenger side 1 1/2" to 2" to clear the steering box and the steering column. On some V8s special driver side exhaust manifolds are required to clear the steering column at the rear cylinder. There is enough movement in the u-joints to allow a 2" drive train offset.

Mixing of old technology and modern technology is always a challenging undertaking. Adopters are probably available to go either way, but once the cost is added up, the cost of keeping the old technology may not be cost, or benefit, effective.

Items required to add a modern motor & trans to an old car or truck:
1) Motor & trans.
2) Front motor mounts. Years ago, there were custom made brackets available to put just about any motor anywhere, these days, the availability of those mounts may be questionable. With some fabrication skills, the brackets are not that complex, the requirement of a "kit" is questionable.
3) A transmission crossmember and transmission mount. Again, not a difficult thing to make, or adapt from a more modern truck.
4) A rad to match you motor requirements and will fit in the grill shell. There are lots of options available.
5) Wiring required to operate your motor & trans. How complex that is, is up to you.
6) Trans yolk to fit your trans and the drive shaft u-joint.
7) Exhaust, how complex that is, is up to you.
8) Throttle & shift linkage. Adapt what you have, or build something new.
9) Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines?
10) I'm sure I missed something. So this space is for that.

I also feel obligated to suggest that if your adding a modern drive train, you also upgrade your brakes. The old Mopar brakes were good for their day and the amount of power the drive trains delivered, Even the weakest modern motors exceed what was originally there. A front disc brake conversion is probably cheaper then rebuilding your original brakes, change to the dual pot master then as well. Disc brake conversion option: www.rustyhope.com If his web site doesn't list your ride, call or email him.

I'd update the rear axle too. Removing the old rear brake drums can be a major PITA, then the rear brakes are still old technology, and the gears are probably in the 391 or lower range and too light duty for much abuse. Changing the entire rear axle fixes all that at the same time. Gene

Gene covered all the major points very well, as usual!
I will add that since you mentioned a tight budget that the 2 best things to do is either buy a properly done project or done car, or buy a donor vehicle for the drivetrain swap.
Getting a 92-95 Dakota will net engine, trans, driveshaft, wiring, a trans crossmember and engine frame mounts to modify, along with gagues, seats, and a bunch of nuts and bolts. This stuff really adds up if bought separately. The rear axle won't be the right width and has the funky 6 bolt pattern, but a 67-70 B body 8.75 is probably a good fit.

The funky six bolt is quickly cured with axels and brakes from the pull a part. Easier than messing with u bolts.

Thank you all!

The LA engine is easy to swap in. I dropped a 318 in my 1941 using the steel motor mounts from a 1977 d100. The bolts go right down through the original holes in the stock k member. I used a 904 and crossmember from the 1977. The cross member went right in after drilling four holes into my frame. 1972 to 1980 8.25 rear bolted in perfectly on stock leaf springs using matching 70s shock mounts and proper u bolts.

The engine mounting maybe to far foward and cause radiator fitment issues but I may mount radiator in bed area. I used a large starter because a mini would not fit due to shape. I shaved a little off the plastic on big starter and it is tight but it clears steering box.

This is the low cost way to keep it mopar. The only gm part is my 1wire alternator....

Hi Dusterkrazy; Did you get your steel mounts from the junk yard or did you order them. I ask because I have a 55 coronet and want to put a 318 from my 88 5th ave in it. I think the truck mounts will work . I cant find the mounts online so far and junk yard in my area (East Texas)don't have ant trucks older than 92. thanks mike h mhutch1948

The bellhousing that was found behind 318 Poly engines in front of 4-speeds in the early '60s had multiple bolt patterns and I believe bolted to a flathead six, the slant six and the LA. I cannot remember if it had the pattern for a 3-speed on the other side. The bellhousing itself weighs about 70 lb. It pretty much encloses the flywheel down about 2/3 of the way.

R.

There are two bells that I am familiar with that have dual block patterns but not familiar with a triple pattern.
A pre-60 bell will have a smallblock v-8 pattern(Hemi and Poly and A engines) along with the L6 pattern and the post-62 with the 'new' A engine and /6.
Not too sure what would have been available in 61-62 with the 'new' /6 engine replacing the L6 and then still-current (but now) 'old' A pattern....could be a real odd-ball.