Ok, I got the front drums/hubs off. Looks like the 2 are just riveted together. Looks like there is plenty of meat to install wheel studs. I know this needs to be pretty exact so should I have a machine shop drill and press in the studs?

New wheels for the rear arrived, I got 15x8 with a 4.5 inch backspaceing. I have some Cooper Cobra 255/60/15s coming, I'm using 15x7 in the front with 235/60/15s

Looking at the pictures, I believe your original failure was caused by using the wrong wheels.

The slots you appear to be setup to run a short shank nut. Your wheel bolts are conical seats. They are not compatible and it does not appear your new rims are compatible either.

Do you plan to convert all 4 corners to studs? I hope so.

To be honest, the drum setup on a 37 isn't worth the price of studs. Non self energizing drum brakes are terrible. I know you aren't planning on it right now, but I wouldn't invest in studding out the original drums myself, I'd just go with modern brakes all around.

The rear is already studs as it is a 8 inch Ford rear end out of what appears to be a Torino by its width. I'm not changing the Front brakes out at this time, I'm just putting in the studs in and the Weld Rodlites getting rid of these old mags. This truck with the brakes it has stops just fine for as little as I drive it.

one thing that is absolutely mandatory is you MUST make sure the drum retaining rivets allow the wheels of choice to fit flat on the drum mating surface. the factory wheels had a relief on the back side to allow this. a close up pic of your new wheels will tell if they will work on the drums.[personally, i don't think they will because even though they have multiple bolt patterns, the unused holes might not be large enough, or in the right place, to fit completely over the rivets] if not, you have two choices. spacers that are thick enough to go slightly above the rivet heads, or swap to modern style brakes as have been already suggested.

The plan is to remove the rivets after the studs are pressed in, the rivets are not needed after it has studs

OK, didn't realize, or most likely I forgot, you had the 8.8 in there, at least those brakes are modern.

Just a thought...instead of drilling them out now for studs (which is fine in itself of course IMO), if the threads in them are 1/2" already..why not just use screw in studs from the rear like the style used on rear axles and commonly sold? Might save a step and some time at least...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8002/overview/

There are plenty of different brands out there, but those as an example at least.

Some of the threads have partial stripping out, I'm a little afraid there might not be enough thread to grab them, maybe if I used some Loctite

If the threads are damaged on some of them, then drilling and using pressed in studs may be a better option. I just thought if the threads were fine going with a screw in one would save a bunch of work and time.

Those things said..another issue to think about that just came to mind, since they were originally made to have the wheel bolts and nothing would ever haved to seat against the back of the hub/drum.. the flat face on the back side you can see in the picture.. if you did drill them out and use a press in stud, you need to make sure the face of the hub is perpendicular to the hole. If not when you press the stud in, it might tend to want to tilt somewhat to make the head sit flush against the hub. Depending on how thick the area is the knurling will have to hold it straight.

I think, with the question of the condition of some of the existing holes, I would have a machine shop drill, or re-size the holes and install the studs. It would suck to go through the effort to install them yourself and discover one of the holes isn't centered because the threads were wore on one side of the hole and not the other, and the hole was drilled off center and now the new stud is off center.

Another thought might be to hane the machine shop relocate the new studs to the current locations of the rivets. The would solve the stud hole and the rivet issue at the same time. Gene

Ok guys, after cleaning out the treads in the drums with a tap I decided to use bolts as a stud instead of pressed in studs. I went out and got 10 1.5 inch grade 8 bolts and ran them in from the backside with red Loctite. I also removed the rivets so the drum and hub is 2 separate pieces.

Completed project

New wheels/tires, 15x7 with 235/60 on the front, 15x8 with 255/60 on the rear, the wheels are Weld Rodlites

More pics

The 15x8 wheels with 4.5 inch back spacing really tuck the rear tires in, the is about 1/2 an inch between the inner sidewall and bed.

Looks good!

You used the correct style lug nuts to get the right thread engagement and seat to the wheels (with washers) and all too of course can assume?

Yes, I used the long 1 3/8 shank lugs and correct washers, tons of thread engagement

Good deal !


(Figured so..)