in a 67 coronet.

currently has a 750 edelbrock, looking to get something like a holley because i prefer tuning them and the throttle linkage and kickdown right now is terrible, going to use lokar most likely. i have it on my truck and it works very well...

motor is a 360, has 180-190psi cranking pressure.
an old mopar perf cam, most likely 230*@.050
about to put headers on it with 2.5" exhaust and an x pipe
magnum heads
knockoff airgap intake
running about 13* intial and 34* total

factory converter with 2.94 gears, going to be alot of street driving soon with some trips to the dragstrip to tune. not a daily driver though i think i will want a choke...

i also plan to pull the trans for a rebuild and put a 10" tight turbo action converter in if it will work with 3.55 gears which i plan to install soonish...

so what carb?
i was thinking a quick fuel ss-650 mech secondary with downleg booster
but there's also the ss750an, kinda like the idea of annular boosters

so would a 750 mech secondary carb with annular boosters be too much???

i was also thinking about demon carbs because of the idle-eze. those carbs don't have changeable air bleeds on the speed demon, end up costing the same as quick fuel, so i'm leaning towards quick fuel...

Get a set of 3.73 gears and a 3,000 converter and it'll wake it up, But id run either a 700-750 double pumper on it if you get enough gear and converter in it.

Yours is mild, and you're not running enough initial timing to really pull a big carb in and be snappy. I recommend an 850 annular from quick fuel. It will respond like a 650 down leg carb, but it will have some legs on the top end....Fix the initial timing, and it will wake up enough to bog pretty bad with your current carb with the biggest squirter shot its capable of...I would call Quick Fuel for one...I loved mine and ran it for many years.

"Stock converter and 2.94 gears"

That is not a good setup for a DP carb. I run the SS-750-AN on my below combo but I waited to buy it until after I added the previous 10" converter with 3:55 gears and 27" tires. It is even better now with a 3800 converter, 3:91 gears and the same 27" tires. your 360 should have better low end grunt, so the DP should be good after your swap.

Listen to Dragula about the timing. Your 13 is low for a 230 cam. The more initial you can throw at it the better it will respond. I tested mine with 18,20,24 and then bought a FBO distributor that now has 30 degrees at idle (manifold vacuum). I will never go back with this combo.

Annular is absolutely the way to go....How do I know?

I sure hope you dont have that much rubber
hose on your car now days for fuel line

the initial timing is where i started out, i want to get more in it if i can. i was worried about detonation with pump gas but it seems to be fine.
i will try to get a few more degrees in there with the procomp dist

might just get the original dist. and weld up the plates and use some lighter springs to try to get 16 or 17* initial and 36* in by 2400rpm.

it's actually pretty snappy right now, i just want to get away from the edelbrock, feels like the throttle shaft might be slightly bent or the throttle linkage really sucks...

the 3.55 or 3.91 gears should be in it soon but i want to be able to swap the 2.94 back in if want to take it out of town or something.

so annular boosters are good.
demon makes a 750 vacuum secondary with annular boosters but it doesn't have the swappable bleeds and mist likely no IFR or PVCR that are swappable...

hahaha

Do not change total to get more initial, you need to shorten the throw on the advance. A small block will tolerate as much as 22° and still start ok....Total should be what ever the engine wants. I have found most small block pump gas mopar like around 38°, but that might be my light or whatever...

There are different ways to do this, send yours out to be recurved, or get an adjustable one.

I locked my MSD distributor at 35*. It starts fine and runs on 93 octane.

Happy B-day D... this is one of the dist I use..
totally adjustable

With the gear change mentioned above, a 750 dp could easily be tuned to work and as Dragula said the QF carbs are an excellent platform but I could take a stock Holley and make it bad azz and look totally stock. All personal preferences and I don`t bother w/E-brocks or vacuum secondary carbs on anything these days unless someone just needs em rebuilt........

Thanks ,Mr P........

Happy b-day man..............where`s the cake by your icon?

yeah that was another question i had. if i could find an older 650dp holley, could i swap a 750 main body with annular boosters from proform or something and reuse the 650 bowls?
probably have to buy a new baseplate too i think?
if that's the case a 650dp might hold me over until i swap the gears and get a real converter in it...
when i start thinking about that though, i just think how that's going to cost almost as much as a new quick fuel.

i got an old holley 600 vacuum secondary a few years ago and put a quickfuel baseplate on it and threw a carb kit at it all and it's actually worked great for me...no stumble, keeps plugs clean and gets 14-15mpg in a w200 with 36x12.50 bias ply tires, maybe it's hard to get a full fill on that tank but that mileage seems impossible...

Either way, the 650 can be tweaked to work and you can call me if u`d like and I can walk you through it if you`re game........

bumping this thread, i got a used holley 0-9379 in nice shape.
this type of carb http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-9379/10002/-1
68/81 jets with 6.5PV is stock.

only question is, should i replace the throttle plates for undrilled plates? i think i probably should, but figure i'd ask.

all four plates have 3/32" holes and my motor has about 14" of vacuum at 800rpm

ps, just got put some dougs headers on and am almost done putting on a 2.5" system with x pipe...

^after that's done i'm gonna swap the carb on with lokar linkages...then finally get to tuning.

IIRC that carb was originally an 830, which was an 850 MB with a 750 base plate. They had a hole in the fuel curve a mile wide. They were released by Holley long before they were ready. They were aslo spec'd for a circle track class where the carb was intended to be modified.

If I were you I would expect issues and then send it off to get it fixed.

Just my .02

Get the timing sorted out first before dialing in a carb. Ignition changes WILL change the carb setting requirements.

I'd get initial in the 20* range and total wherever the engine will tolerate.

seems there are three models. 750, 830, 850

http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/Holley-Comp...ge=90&pno=1

did all three have fuel curve problems?

the one i have has notched secondary float and secondary jet extensions from holley

it has old style metering blocks, 134-155, IFR in the low position.


edit: this is one of the few things i could actually find referencing one of these carbs. dulcich put two on a tunnel ram. he makes it sound like it's just a 4150 series 750 with annular boosters...

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0109-440-head-buildup-dyno-test/