Q1A double adjustable, what is a good starting point for me?

If its stock valving you will be NEAR max tight if
not full tight on extension.. each car will want what
it wants.. so you cant just say one thing for all..
but that part of the fun of tuning the chassis.. a strong
solid chassis(very little flex) is easier to tune that a
car that flexes... video is you best friend on chassis work

ll my drag radial guys concur, they say to tighten it up. Thanks everyone

A good starting point is get on the phone and order some shocks........but until then tighten the QA-1s to full tight on front extension

lol, yes sir

I guess the Santhuff are for the rear.
My rears are 6 sweeps up top from full tight and 6 to 7 clicks from full tight on the bottom.

I have strange struts up front. But I'm in the middle of the adjustments.

That's probably why yours is hard to tune as well. That loose strut is letting it bury the back tire

Guys over look this one simple thing. The STIFFER you can make the suspension, both front and rear, the FASTER the car will be provided it hooks. Yet guys always start way loose and then stop when it "works", never going further to see if it works "better". Start STIFF, then if it doesn't wad the tire or do something, soften it up. You will find the sweet spot MUCH quicker than you will starting in "dishrag" mode

They are on the list for this winter. I called strange right after I posted to see what the top and bottom adjusters did. I Went and tightened it as tight as I can get it on top. Not sure where to set the bottom compression. It's the Koni cartridge

SOME Strange struts, depending on the cartridge are clockwise for full tight and some are counter clockwise for full tight. Make sure you have that straight

Yeah.. mine are CCW for full stiff and I keep forgetting
that.. on the Rampage.. CW on the race car

OK, full tight on extension, check
No one mentioned compression at all.......?

I watched you run at milan on sept 2nd. what rpm do you leave at?? Sounds like you are leaving around 6k?? then it shoots way up cuz you spin, not sure how you can calm that down dut it sounds scary like you are going to explode the motor.

it was set at 3,000 the first two passes, I was desperate and tried 4,200 the last pass. I don't believe it ever went past 7,200, limiter is set at 7,400. I never stayed in it at all, makes a lot of noise, leaves the line with 29 pounds of boost

Front shock compression,
There was no mention of it. How do I tell if I have it right? full tight too? Will that cause the car not to settle back down?
Starting point, 1/2 tight? 3/4, full?

My front end seldom rises more than a foot. The tires stay on the ground the first 6 feet or so. Hooks better tight. Loose just causes it to unload the rear quickly after the hit. If it wasn't in bracket mode I'd tighten it even more.
Doug

It’s come a long way from when it did the Pro Street thing before reconstruction. The first time I took it to the track I was told it launch like a scared cat. Back then all four tires came off the ground at the hit. I’ll start close to full tight. Thanks guys, I will let you know how it goes next week

I will be watching from the stands. I can try to get some video if I can get close enough to get some during Time trials

Start at 1/2 way on compression.. make sure it will
settle down but not bouncy

That would be great, thank you. We will also be putting two go-pros under it

If that motor makes ANY power.........29 lbs of boost, drag radials and a clean leave are words that will NEVER fit together in a sentence, don't care what you do with shocks and suspension