I've got a customer with a 69 charger and he wants to modify the suspension with newer technology. It's a matching number 440 R/T so I have advised him not to have something that is not bolt on. I was looking a the QA1 stuff but they don't make it for a b body rear suspension. Anyone know of a good system that works well? Thanks.

Hotchkis. It uses all factory geometry. Not much, if any changes need to be made for a B-Body.

Alterkation front and rear, both work great and you can put the car back to stock if you ever want to, but once you have one you won't.

Firm Feel has some great products. One way to go is make one mod at a time until the desired ride is obtained. Start with shocks and then move on to sway bars etc. What wheels and tires is he running?

One thing I forgot to mention is try to keep the mods simple and easy to work with. It's getting difficult to find alignment shops with a crew that has the skills necessary to work on old Mopars let alone one that has a modified suspension.

Can't go wrong with either Firm Feel or Hotchkis. All bolt on stuff. The alter k requires some cutting. If you go Hotchkis you will need an upgraded steering box and that's Firm Feel's forte.

yep, used firm feel stage 3 box and drove her today tight as all get out!!! tvs system by hotchkis and qa1 lowers.. the tvs system is really the way to go, also dont forget torsion bars and shocks,,,,

I would do the BAC steering box setup, smaller and lighter.

i would start with new wheels/tires and nice shocks, probably bilstein from firm feel.
then from there a front anti-swaybar and stiffer torsion bars, something around 1.04" atleast...

or call firm feel and see what they say.

For less than half the money, the stock based suspension can be transformed to ride and handle as well as a new car using HOTCHKIS stuff. The RMS stuff is not as easily reversed as you say. Brackets have to be cut off the car to fit the front end setup. I'm sure there is some cutting, welding and drilling to fit any coil over rear setup as well.

I put my car together with a bunch of parts from independant sources, mainly because I wanted to be able to buy stuff a little at a time. I'd gladly put my car up against a Hotchkis equipped car.

To put the car back to stock you would have to weld back on the bump stop brackets on the front, it would take more time to set the welder than to put the brackets back on. The rear might take 10 minutes to grind off the mount that holds the shocks and arms.

Right.
THEN you'd need to sell the RMS stuff and install a more durable suspension design with OEM durability. Something like a Torsion bar type setup very familiar to Mopar guys....

I'll get right on that than, we all know the OEM is stronger then the Alterktion.

It is okay to disagree. I have Rick Ehrenberg in my corner on this one. As soon as I hear of millions of RMS owners log over 100,000 miles each in their cars with their cars, I'll send you a cookie.

Come on, what ( or how many ) other aftermarket add on items could meet that requirement, in all fairness.

Fastmark, I would ask your customer what his goal is . For me personally new technology would be to have a new car feel. I have personally built a couple of cars with both the firm feel level 2 and 3 boxes and although way better ,they still have that old car feel to them in my opinion . We have an E-body in our shop and we are using the magnum force transformer in the front and RMS street lynx in the rear . We just liked the looks of how well built the transformer is and wanted the feel that the rack and pinion steering gives you. And It really wasn't that much more than a complete Hotchkis kit if you are replacing everything.
Roadster shop also makes a nice setup for B-bodies , but it's not a bolt in.

Not throwing fuel on this fire but. Alterktion both ends on my GTX. Is awesome and since I am not a racer I would not notice huge difference,however, I wouldn't pass on either hotchkiss or Alterktion. Greg can drive my GTX at willow springs and have an absolute comparison.
I have also had a complete hotchkiss TVS in a 69 Dart and it was a slot car so my opinion is based on having experienced the transition from stock to modified but I do NOT have the experience of other aftermarket applications.

What part of my post do you disagree with? The part about welding back in the bumps stop not taking a lot of time? Or was it where I said the OEM was stronger than the Alterktion?

You are really working hard at keeping that cookie, first you have to hear from millions of RMS owners, they have to log over 100,000 miles, each in their cars, with their cars (in and with at the same time or both?), with those kind of parameters I don't think I need to check the mail anytime soon for that cookie.

The OP stated that he advised his customer not to do anything that's not bolt-on due to it being a matching number car. Last time I checked, cutting off factory pieces from the car does not qualify as bolt-on.

I'm not saying that RMS is good or bad, just pointing out that it does not fit what the OP is asking for...

Well I would say we are splitting hairs if drilling out 6 spot welds is not a bolt on to get the alterkation installed in a car.
If we go by this criteria the Hotchkis TVS system I put in last summer was also not a bolt on as I had to:

1. Grind the upper control arm mount
2. Weld on sway bar tabs on the lower control arms
3. Weld in sub frame connectors
4. Cut the factory Torque boxes to get the sub frame connectors to fit
5. Weld on the rear sway bar bracket and I think drill a hole or two in the frame.

So to me one is really no worse than the other...and I would call either system "bolt on" in my garage.

And honestly I'm not trying to be jerk about it to you in any way if it comes across like that, just giving the original poster my thoughts on what direction to go with the customers car. I have done both systems and they are both great choices.