No rotors here. Drum brakes. Adjustable and light some what.

As good as they seem to work for most cars but not all, I do not have interest in using Cal-tracs, South Side bars or old school slappers. Just the old tech leafs.
The launchers are a little heavier, not as much as it sounded at first, but they already are razor responsive with a little test and drive yesterday to the Astoria reunion in Astoria park.
I'll see how the track time reflects the change.
I'll find the 10 Lbs somewhere I'm sure. LOL.

That old duster article used Mono's without the caltrac, just kept the snubber. Was good enough for a high 11 second smallblock, but limited adjustability.

Lee...before long the only place to lose the 10lbs will be the driver...
You might be in trouble since there's not much to spare there either...

LOL.

You're right. At a lean mean 180 Lbs wet, I could use a few pounds.
Though at race time having only the ignition key (aluminum types optional) and no underclothing and socks after fasting the night before make for a n extra light weight set-up. LOL.
At least the 10 spot was applied to the rear of the car where it doesn't concern me as much.
Now if I can find an inch or two rearward to mount my seat........
There are some gems coming down the pipeline soon when I get a chance in between hectic work. Ya'll will read with amazement.

A friend runs fiberglass springs on the rear of his Challenger. Single mono springs, no traction device and the car flat out hooks.

Skicker

Wait till you see what I'm doing with the front clip as reference that you so generously donated to the course.

Im down 21 lbs so far. 12 out of the front suspension. Still havent read this whole thread but trying

Barracuda license plate bracket 1.5 lbs but feels like 7

Monos 26 caltracs 14

If the front license plate bracket, make in aluminum. Keep it in steel if on the rear.

Even with heavier rear springs, I'm content with their feel at the moment. Will test this coming season for real evaluation.

Been a while and I caught up on some of the later made posts, so here is my light weight suggestion. Cast you own outside door handles from aluminum and polish them up and clear coat them so they have that older worn chrome look. Also if I remember right some of the later model outside door buttons were plastic that were chromed? However late model trucks used a black plastic button that I'm sure could also be massage too work. With your car being black I doubt few people would notice the difference.

if a front plate needs to be in use, take a big hole saw to that in several places and you could loose maybe 1/2lb. or more. or use a plasma cutter or air saw and trim everything away except maybe a 1/2-3/4" border that includes the mounting holes for the plate. or just use a couple of zip ties to attach the plate and loose the mount altogether.

Good suggestion Jamie.
Yes. I've looked into sand casting companies to making the door handles both on the outside and interior with no interest other than making a thousand of them.

There is a way though, at least with the interior handles.

I'm fabricating the interior ones as we speak out of a Rodders kit that has the inner sprocket gear that attaches to the door latch crank mechanism and scratch making the handle. Should all add up with four pieces being lightened. I'll picture some

The exterior ones will have to wait till I find someone crazy enough to make a few or at least a very short run.

The front plate bracket can also be chemically milled and kept looking totally stock.
I would prefer making it in light alloy if it's relatively flat and not so much compound bends or embosses.

My interior handles are 3/16 thick L-brackets in alum and drilled for more weight reduction............

I got the idea from watching "Cuban Chrome" when they cast replacement trim and emblems, even if you casted a big rectangle the rest could be carved away.

I am not surprised by the tactics in limited areas with improvised engineering and or because of materials. Some incredible stuff can be made with determination. My hood scoop was made out of aluminum sheet stock using wood carved molds, stairwell railings as a break and found metal flat stock as a male/female jig sought of speak.

Right now finally making Titanium rear shock plates out of 1/4 inch flat stock and turned down shock bolt.

Any thoughts of what rear drums to rear disc brake kit like strange engineering is worth in weight.

Not immediately related to this question, but here's my two cents.
Factory drums systems are generally lighter then factory disc brake systems along with free wheeling and especially while using non cooling fin drums that are smooth round face compared to finned drums assemblies.
Now when replacing factory drums either smooth round or finned drums with after market disc systems, there is a good amount of weight lost. Strange and Aero systems are the most used. There are a few good options.

I still like the GM aluminum drum trick that I thought of by using a GM axle with GM flange bolt pattern and backing plates for usage of a GM brake system from the late 70's early 80's.

Good luck in your purchase.